boonman

I've had mine on for a year and a half, teflon lined, and they are all still tight. I also run teflon lined rod ends on my truck and they are all tight... It all depends.... Maybe you ride too hard Chetta....

Above all, you need to get a set of pipes. THen you need to grab a pro-flow plate and a different air filter. I prefer UNI foam filters to K&N, but it's your preference. You will also need to get some jets. Once you get pipes, grab main jets from about size 270-310. Also grab a set of 27.5 pilot jets. The pilot jets have to come from the dealership. Part number for the 27.5 pilots is 260-14142-27. After you get that done, shoot me a PM, and we'll talk about some head mods and possibly lightening up that flywheel for some throttle response. Also a shift star mod if you want to get a little cleaner shifting and neutral finding........ Those mods should come last. PIPES and AIR FILTER are #1!!! That should keep you busy for awhile...

The pins keep the bearings from spinning in the bores of the case. PIns are the ultimate protection. Rotax used O-rings for years. You know what, they switched to pns recently. Using o-rings to stop the bearing from spinning the outer race is not a very solid thing. They still spin. if the bearing spins, and they do, sometimes they wipe out the bore, ad you're screwed. Time for new cases.

I use a 6'x12' landscape trailer. On it we usually put 3 bbanshees and fuel. In a pinch on a trip to Silver lake, we had an aluminum toolbox out of a pickup, (full size), 3 banshees, 40 gallons of fuel, a Honda Rubicon 500 on 27" vampires, and gear on the 6'x12' trailer. It was interesting..... I would say for the long trips, you can get away with loading as shown in the linked pics above. WHich I must say was dammmmmmmmm impressive!!! But, for ease of use and what not, a sled trailer good, but I like the landscape trailer, because of the sides, you can throw anything on there and it won't fall off.

Heims are NOT all lined with teflon. And they are not in fact "heims" at all. Heim joints are dubbed that because of a company by the name of Heim that manufactured rod ends and was popular. Myself, I use "Aurora" rod ends. Excellent strength, and I have never had one break. There are a ton of manufacturers out there that make them. Heim joints can be lined with Steel, they can have different balls in them, from mild steel to ball bearing steel, to pretty much anything. You can order maintenance free teflon lined rod ends, or you can order brass lined rod ends, whatever suits your fancy. I am partial to the teflon lined ones. They are no mess. Bronze lined you have to grease. That makes a mess......

Well, custom made leafs would be the way to go. If you want it tailored to your specifics, custom packs are the way to go. You have to make a decision. If you want all spring, and want weight carrying capacity, you are going to get a somewhat rough ride out of it. If you want to keep the ride, and tow, you can go the air bag route. It is a fairly cheap setup. for the way you can custom tailor the ride and handling on the fly, you can't beat it. For 37" rubber, you can go with 6" of lift. 37-12.5 rubber will go right on. if you want some 37's on some 12" wide rims though, you better go 8". For an off the shelf lift, Superlift makes military wrapped spring packs, which I am a fan of. They have a good ride, and good load carrying capacity. BDS has an EXCELLENT warranty policy. But, on the other hand, they are the only other spring pack that I have seen break other than skyjacker. If you have the $$, and want the ULTIMATE in springs, I highly suggest giving National Spring a call. THey will make you a set of leafs for whatver aplication you want. Around me, I would use the local spring shop, but it wouldn't be cost effective for me to get a set of springs made, and ship them to you form here. Shipping a set of springs is astronomical.... You may be able to find a local spring shop. That's what I did a few years ago. Just go into the place, and tell them what you want. If the guy looks at you crooked, and spews out some backwoods response, turn around, and walk out the door. But if he starts asking questions about weight, and what you are running per axle, (# wise) then this is your place. You should be able to get a set of leafs made for about $6-700 per axle. National spring is going to be a bit more pricey, but they know their shit better than about anyone in the industry on lift springs.

Walter is a stand up guy, and I would pay him DOUBLE thhan pay you for shit my friend. You may go take a flying f*ck on a rolling donut for all your worth. Take your lying ass back to the blue oyster where you belong.....

Truing tha crank is referring to making sure the crank is in phase. In a banshee, this means that the rod pins are exactly 180 degrees apart in 1 crank rotation. Once this is accomplished, the pins are welded to the outside of the crank. Banshee cranks are pressed together. (as are many other cranks) Because of this, there isn't much that holds them from coming out of phase, and/or seperating. Welding the pins prevents this from happening...

Breaking a tap is aluminum is the worst. I hate it. I have done it a couple times. I learned my lesson. Make a mess, and you won't have a problem. Mess=cutting oil!!!!! You need lots of cutting oil Aluminum galls up retardedly easy.

Funny thing is that I have noticed a wicked increase in the throttle response on my bike since lightening the flywheel. I have compared the both of them. (lightened vs. stock) back to back. I can honestly say that a lightened flywheel helped my bike's performance immensely. Talking about rotating mass on a twin cylinder two stroke is like talking about reed valves on a four stroke. You simply don't need the rotating mass on a banshee motor. I laugh every time i hear that the lightened flywheel hurts a banshee's performance ANYWHERE in the RPM range.

you need to pull the top end off at least. Get in there and see what is up.... As long as you are absolutely sure nothing on the outside is hanging it up....

Depending on hardware used, there is a different application for both. Ball joint style pieces have higher feasible angles than a heim style rod end. However, you can get igh angle heim style rod ends, but they are pricey. This is what is used on most ATV front ends that use a heim style rod end.... Cost wise, you can't beat a ball joint. If you want strength, go for a high angle heim style rod end. But, they are a little more on the pocket book. Myself, I wouldn't use a taper lock anything. I would drill it out and run a bolt through it. Cheaper for me that way.

I love Dodge trucks. The cummins gets the nod in the motor department. No doubt about it. Stock for stock, I would say Ford. BUT, start throwing mods at it, and Cummins will walk away with it every time. The stroker may win in a drag race, but hook a sled, or a trailer up, and the tables turn. The V-8 stroker just can't hang with a Cummins I-6 when you tune 'em. My personal choice will be a Ford. Only for the cab space. Dodge still doesn't have a full size crew cab. I am still pondering the Xcursion choice as well. Still undecided. I don' t plan on doing many mods to the truck, so the Ford will work out fine for me. I say if you want the utmost in performance, and have some $$$ to burn, get the cummins powered Dodge. It will be unstoppable.....

yep. Just grind the old weld off, anc re-true it, and weld it again. Although, I doubt someone in therir right mind would weld a crank if it wasn;t perfect.....

Either something has come loose, or out of adjustment, or the ball and rod have welded together....

Should be on a good top end about 150-155 PSI.

This is a BYOB party. You can talk bitches all you want, but us "30 year olds" aren't going to be suppplying any minors with alcoholic beverages of ANY sortt.

I have a LSR Xcalibur. It is rusty now though. I didn't take care of it. Salty New York winters....

The boost bottle is junk. it is supposed to smooth out the power by equalizing things between the cylinders. it doesn't work. I took mine off and plugged the holees with aluminum slugs. Your Tag triple clamps aren't triple clamps at all. A triple clamp goes on a motorcycle, or a 3-wheeler. (ATC) A triple clamp holds forks, and the handlebars. On a banshee, the bars get clamped to the steering stem. They adapt the 1 1/8" diameter bars that you have to bolt onto the bike. The 1 1/8" dia. bars reduce fatigue while riding due to the added flex they provide because they have no cross bar. That bike sounds pretty good. As does your wife!!! As mentioned, renthal aluminum sprockets aren't too good. I would replace them when they wear out. It should be soon if they are aluminum. Now that you're here, put on a pot of coffee, because you will be up for hours on end reading the endless information supplied on here...

Not a problem Nick!!! I just wanted to be sure someone didn't read it and think to temselves, "Dayummmmmm mang, I can stuff me some towels all up in there and get all that debris out." The method you describe I would do on a normal rebuild, but if someone melts their shizzo up, it has to be taken care of proper like... Otherwise, down the road, you get

I ran a set of 22" super swampers. They slow the bike down considerably, but man do they hook up. You will gain some clearance, but IMHO I would rather run a skid and grab a tad more throttle to "skip" over your hangin obstacls.....

Just FYI, Syntax' method of cleaning will NOT remove debris from in side the bearings. it's y'alls motor. Once again, if it was mine, that bitch would be torn down.

I just ordered a set of Holeshot XC tires. 20-11-9 on DOuglas .190's from Moto-man.com Alot cheaper than Razr's. I needed a set for coalfest!!!! Anyways, on the rim thing. The rim and tire combo will be lighter the larger the wheel you go. I would be a little concerned with trashing a set of 10's where I ride, but then again, I don't even run a rear skid. if you want the 9's, hold out for them. if not, get the 10's.

Some of you folks have got to be joking........

Joint??? What??? Wait a minute.... What were we talking about? i forgot...