boonman

Alright folks. I have done some research on this. I absolutely SWEAR by this boot. perfect for an ATV rider. Tech 8's are about the best in the biz, but $$$$. THESE BOOTS right here are what I have and are fuckin awesome!!!!! NO break in time. Slapped 'em on, and that was it..... Also, the place to get them from is about the best I have found. (except those that "fall off" the back of the truck...)

I do not have a problem. And what I was sayin, Ducman laid out perfectly. ABout the crush washer.... I am running 185 lbs. or so of compression, and 50-50 race/pump fuel and I do not have a problem with that.... So I doubt compression is the issue.... I also run +4 advance....

Boring actually removes material from the cylinder. Honing, leaves small grooves in the cylinder called "cross-hatches". These are needed to break in the rings and allow them to seal to the cylinder walls. Honing can also be referred to as very minute "scratches" in a specific pattern on the side of the cylinder...... You should measure the cylinders to see if they are within tolerance and not oblonged......

Hell no there ain't gonna be no excuses this time. I ben savin' cash like a mofo!!!! I'm goin!!!!!!!!!!

Nope. They are balanced at the factory. And the jig and fixturing I have, mimics perfectly the end of the crank. When the flywheel is bolted to the jig, there is no runout. The material is removed in a perfect circle, so there is no "uneven" material removed. This is however, assuming you don't bend the flywheel by using a 3-jaw puller.....

I still don't know whether or not the fam is going... I am guessing not, but there is always that possibility..... If not, I'll probably camp, but have a hotel room for an end of the day shower. Unless, I can work somethin' out with my bro' Rodney, and pay some of his hotel bill, and bum his shower for a few minutes a night... . Gotta clean the coal shiz off myself.

Jen, I've never heard of such things. 9 times out of 10, with a lightened flywheel, you should be able to "snap" out of the corner easier, because of the less rotating mass, the RPM's pick up instantly. It should actually help you in the corners. I know it helped my bike's response. It is insane. You want it, it's there... Perhaps you are in too high of a gear??? I don't know.... I did notice that in TT, It lights up VERY quickly coming out of the corner.....

Well, as for the questions you asked, longevity wise, this cannot be answered. Any machine will differ.... For cost, this is not a factor to be determined. However, a stroker crank will require porting. Which is an extra cost. BUT, you will make the most power with a stroker crank, and the proper porting. If it was my money,,, I would go with the stroker and porting. BUT, I would go to Jim from Passion Racing. You can PM him @ passionRE on this board....

Dynojet needles are longer, and have a different taper than stock needles. I know, I have them. What pipes do you have? I think that with the new needles, you are lean...

Just to clear that up, you take the factory valve stem, and turn it inside out, so the valve stem is now INSIDE the tire. Then, 180 degrees from the stock hole, you drill a hole on the OTHER side of the rim. And install a valve stem in the normal fashion. This will be the new outside of the wheel.

I am guessing that the plug is backing out. Detonation is what usually causes this. Or, using old plugs. Or, improper torque....

Well, I haven't een there this year, but I do know that the last two years have been enforced, so I can't see the DNR not doing it this year...

I dunno man. It sounds to me like tranny oil is getting in there. Or you are mixed at 10:1..... Are you positive? What kind of guage. brand name?

I get about 3 hours of solid riding. Maybe more depending on terrain..... Dunes eat up fuel. Your WOT all the damn time!!! Especially up hills and shit. I have an IMS though.....

If the cooling system was building pressure, you would get a faceful of business with the cap off. Did you "drain" the pipes before you put them back on? I would take the pipes off, drain them, clean them, and fire it back up.... Check your tranny oil watch it closely.... How did the water pump look wen you pulled the lower end apart?

usually around $100 + shipping $65 including shipping gets ya 9 oz. removed and the shift star mod with neutral backcut is $25 including shipping.... HELL YES!!!! In a hill climb, you need power when you want it, and you need it NOW!!! You are on the gas, and then the front end comes up a little, you back out a touch. Now the bike falls out of the powerband. you hammer it, and it doesn't do anything but bog. With a lightened flywheel, problem goes away. INSTANT throttle response. Private message through this site. Being that my email is down, and I don't have any untill I find another email place....

God I hope not Led!!!! For the sake of ALL Shee owners...

When you grab hold of the flywheel, does it have slop? It could have come loose. The rivets could have come loose, but I doubt that very much. I am thinking that something is loose under the flywheel.....

Yea, I guess I don't value my time much anymore.........

I ride the hill. I might be up there in a few weeks. Testing....

1-2 every time...

My signature is meant to be more comical than anything. And it didn't cost me anything to lighten my flywheel. I lighten flywheels, shave heads, and mod shift stars.....

Why no alcohol? You can make ALOT more power than fuel...

I had the same thing happen to my crank. Lower rod bearing went. (the big end). It was due to my dumb ass not takning the crank out to clean it after I blew a hole through the piston. I didn't clean the crank as good as I could have had I split the cases. my guess is it could have come from a lack of oil, debris, or just good ol' bearing failure. Either way, you need to gt it tore down, and sent out to someone for porting and a stroker crank. Might as well do it now, so you don't kick yourself later for buying a stock stroke crank and not going for a stroker.

You need an in/lb torque wrench for that. Don't go taking your 1/2" drive, 20-250 ft/lb torque wrench and clicking it down and thinking it will work. it doesn't. Use the proper tools. I just use my mind for the clutch bolts. Feel it out. It's not too hard.....