boonman

That should have been my rule, but it wasn't. I got a long rod crank. Now, I want a stroker. I say talk to Jim, and send him your top end. He will send you back the cylinders bored and ported, and a crank, and top end kit. You will smoke that EX in no time.....

Your correct. Not ALL EX's are as slow as people think. BUT, and there is a big BUT here. They are the exception, rather than the norm. I have been beaten by a couple EX's at Silver Lake dunes. They had no less than 10,000 smacks into their bikes to get them to where they were. My bike is damn near stock. SOme mods here and there, and I was wasting EX's, 440 bored, piped, ignition, cam and what not on them and I had a MotoFast 2 into 1 pipe and a sorry ass excuse for a top end...... it doesn't take much to beat a 400EX. A stock banshee should smoke an EX. No question. And Stan, you hit it on the head with the cast Vs. Forged. it's a cost thing...... No other excuse......

I have TAG T2 CR-Lo bend bars. I have them on a 3" raised stem. I love them. Best damn thing for comfort I have done the the bike....

I think the 17/18 is talked about....

Your going Rod, and that's all there is to it!!!!!!! I'm up for any weekend that is picked...... I should have some sort of mode of transportation worked out by then.....

tug hill. Also, in PA. Check out the coalfest page in this forum.....

Bill. Whatever you do, do NOT name him Dan. Or Daniel.....

People need to sstart taking responsibility for their own actions. They are always trying to place the blame on someone else. That's where the courts come in. Some guy had a vicous pitbull. Or, it was a mild mannered pooch, and soome ass hole provoked it. He got nipped, and sued the owner for some ludicrous amount of money. And won. He was probably trying to rob the friggin house as well. And he still won. That's the reason they drop you for your pets. Because somewhere, there was some ass hole who didn't believe he was at fault for his own actions. How is it that we live in a society where we don't live up to and take responsibility for our own actions? Like the stupid biotch and the McD's coffee. Of course it's hot you friggin idiot. It's coffee!!!!!! Woop Woop. Big surprise there. She was probably trying to do 4 things at once ,and that's where she spilled the shit. Oh, I didn't know it was going to be hot???? Yep, and you would be the first person to go and bitch that it was cold. So, now we have labels to protect us from our own idiocy....... Loook around. They are there. Don't use the hair dryer while standing in the tub. Bog shocker there. Yep, I try to use as many electrical appliances as I can when I'm in the bath.... I like to try to float the toaster oven while it is making the toast. Like a little toast boat... I mean come the hell off it people. It is getting ridiculous. And auto insurance is nonsense. In NYS, we have what is called "no fault" insurance. if I crash my car, it is covered untill they can decide who is at fault. What takes so friggin long to decide who hit who? And there is an extra charge for it. We also have what is called uninsured/underinsured driver protection. WTF do we need that shit for? In this state, it is illegal to drive a vehicle for which you are not covered under the insurance. Or worse yet, with no insurance..... Now, the underinsured clause. That is for those retardedly high lawsuits that people get because they are not found at fault and their life is sooo screwed up now. Bull shit I say. Own up to it. I know of people who damn near make a living out of suing others for bull shit. It sickens me.......

I always dump mine at the local refuse transfer station. They charge me $70 a year, and I can take as much shit there as I want to..... SOmetimes, my buddy from work collects it for some fenceposts.... I don't feed it to my neighbors animals. That's what antifreeze is for!!! Besides, they always seem to drink the antifreeze faster. And with the quick turnaround with animals he has over there, it seems each new one is dumber than the last one..... he creek one had me ROTMFF!!

What I meant was that on your insurance record, if you crashed your '74 mint condition AMC pacer, or you crashed your beemer, it would show up the same on your record. Accident over $1,000. That's all it says. So, the company can't distinguish between you getting a check (or the bank getting the check for the remainder of the financing) for $1200 or the check going out for $24,000. That's what I'm sayin'. They don't care. As long as it is over $1,000, you're screwed. Insurance is just looking for reasons to cancel you. Just like dealers are looking for reasons to void your warranty. It is bull shit what these companies do in the eyes of $$$$. Pisses me off. Insurance is the largest legal pyramid scheme in the country today. I don't how the government lets the shit go..... it sickens me....

There is one thing I STRONGLY disagree with. You don't need a decent torque wrench. You need a GOOD quality torque wrench. Decent won't cut it with anything that needs to be torqued properly. I have lost motors due to improper spec'd "decent" wrenches. Go to Sears, and pick up a microtork torque wrench. If you can, get one that reads from 20-250 in./lb. and get another one that goes 20-250 lb.ft. Trust me, you will need both. I have tested my craftsman microtorks after a year of abuse in the shop and they are still dead ballnutz on!!!

Why wouldn't you use a top end pipe for dragging? IMHO, a Toomey pipe is more of a drag pipe than an FMF is? I run and suggest to you FMF pipes. They are a great pipe. Tried and true. Toomey T-3's when cut and welded are a great pipe as well...

I also run with no lid. I use a UNI foam filter, with an outerwear. And of ccourse the needed pro-flo plate. You will need this if you plan on removing the lid. You need to have the pro-flow plate anyways. The stock filter setup sucks ass.

Grab a micrometer, and check them. That is the only real way to tell. Unless they are blueish in color, which would indicate they have been distempered, and will ruin any new fibers that are put in....

What are you trying to interchange? Most everything is interchangeable. CDI's changed to a different connector with one extra wire. But, if you wire it yourself, the new will work with the old. it's not hard. The years escape my mind at the moment. somewhere around 97 or so I think??? I don't remember. Of course the A-arms and the J-arms aren't going to interchange. Tell the 400EX owner you talked to to pull his head out of his ass.

I think you need to think about this a little more. ANd if you are riding at 1000' or below, I would not get anything less than a 21cc dome unless you want to touch on race fuel. If you go with a 20cc dome, most likely at sea level or really anything below 1,000' you run the risk of detonation and pinging if you don't run race fuel. By race fuel, I mean a higher octane fuel. Get some pipes, some jets, and go from there. Be sure to pick up your manual as well.

Wiseco Pro-Lite pistons are the same configuration as stock, just a whole lot better. stronger. Undeniable facts. Vito has Wiseco make pistons to his specs.

Did you replace the upper needle rod bearings when you did the top end last time? I am thinking that the upper rod bearing went, which let the piston crash into the dome, and shattered it. Cast pistons are not as strong as a forged piston. No matter what ANYONE tells you, it is physically impossible. That is an undeniable fact. Now, you were running 22cc domes. What kind of fuel? Was it low octane? Was it old? A problem with detonation will back the plugs out. Not tightening the plugs enough will let the plugs back out. Tightening them too much will cause them to strip the threads in the dome.... There is a fine line. It is about 1/4 turn past hand tight on a fresh plug. Much less on a used plug... Now, the loose plug could have cause it to go lean a little. I don't think it would suck air through the threads as much though.... You would lose compression from it for sure though. Now, you said you were fouling plugs with 260 mains? If that is the case, than why in the hell did you go to 290's? You should be at least a 300 main unless your at 4,000' elevation. Open box and pipes? That is sucking considerably mre air than stock. And 30 pilots!!! That's HUGE!!! Anyways, The end of the plug was flat. This is because it got smashed by the piston. Then, the piston broke apart from repeated hammering against the plug. Now, with all the debris you describe, ad the piston grenading, you need to split the cases and get the crank out of there. Have it checked, trued and welded. NEw bearings if at all feasible. Otherwise, you risk brenading the lower rod bearing and having the same problem all over again. I have had it happen. (the lower bearing after debris in the lower end) Pull the entire motor down. Next time, use Wiseco pistons. They are forged.... And replace the upper rod bearing any time you replace pistons. They are cheap, and how could you not?

Pre-ignition contributes to detonation....

Yep. But all that box hair best be gone. Perhaps a racing stripe. But, I don't enjoy flossing at the same time eating.... ANyways, an average piece of paper is around .004"-.005". So, perhaps folding it over 4 times or so would be good. Just don't use the bended/folded edge. Fold it in a fashion that will allow you to utilize 4 unfolded edges stacked.... Perhaps cut the paper and stack them together. However, the best bet is to run down to NAPA and get yourself some feeler guages for $5. Never know what kind of paper y'all got there....

DOn't worry about jetting. Buy yourself an assortment of 280-380 mains. Cost ya $40. At the most..... Forget the boost bottle. Get the manual. Decide on some pipes. Mod the airbox, and keep reading the posts here. You will figure it out...

Most of the time, the black speckled bull shit in the colant is just the paint from inside the head and cylinders and what not. The only way to tell for sure is if it overheats consistently, or if you pull the water pump cover and have a peek. The drive gear could be shot as well. I just pulled a motor apart a week ago that had the clutch basket come apart and take out the water pump drive gear and the crank seal. I am not sure if the speckles would be a sign of the impellar going bad???? I may be wrong though???

Ron has it correct. The flywheel is connected to the crank. The crank will not turn anything on the output shaft unless it is in gear. it sounds to me like the clutch is slipping to all hell. Judging by your explanation, it sounds as if this is the case. You mash the throttle, and it revs to the moon, and doesn't go anywhere.... BUT, you also said it was bogging and what not. This could be a fouled plug, I would start there. And then clean the carbs. You could also have a look see at the reeds. Does it backfire at all?

That is almost an untrue statement as the previous one in this thread. To address the first MORONIC statement, that is both hilarious, and very idiotic at the same time. I find it more funny than anything!!!!!! On this new statement, a "cool-head" may not make your bike run cooler. I have heard claims of up to 10% better cooling, but I have seen no proof. Do NOT get me wrong on this. I will be getting a NOSS head soon enough, but only because of the dome interchangeability of it. Not for any other reason. As a matter of fact, there are 3 reasons that aftermarket "cool head" is good. 1. For interchanging domes at a cheap price. 2. For being able to pull the head off and re-install it with the same o-rings. Essentialy, a re-useable head "gasket". 3. looks. That's about it folks. Now, I will say this to those that will jump in here and flame away on this. Go ahead and provide proof to me and the rest of the HQ that there is a cool head that makes the bike any more than 5-10% cooler. I doubt that there is even a gain in 10% or less. The head may be able to transfer heat slightly better than a stocker just due to the surface area exposed to outside air. Not the coolant flowing within, but just the physical area outside in the open. This is a possibility, but not a very good case. Now, Once again, I will re-iterate here. I am not against the cool-head. Just stating some other things here. Show me the proof that it runs cooler. I want it. PLEASE DON'T take this the wrong way folks. it is a discussion. Not a flame war.

You cannot adjust the clutch any tighter. he clutch lever/cable/lever arm all work to disengage the clutch. The clutch springs are what holds the clutch engaged. Too light a spring in the clutch wil make it slip. Once it heats up, things get really slippy. You could have snapped a stud off the clutch hub, and the springs aren't on there.... Or, the bolts could have loosened up. but I doubt that. SOunds like the fibers are shot....