Zillaguy

The left carb has a small brass BB peened into the bowl... ONLY the left carb has this...

About to buy a new set of CPI in-frames from a friend of mine, he is not sure if they are SB or BB... Is there a way to identify them by looking at them? They are brand new w/silencers, never installed $600.00 Just bought his new never installed chrome Durablue +4 axle for $100.00!

Bad rings, egg shaped cylinders, stuck rings, bad head gsaket.... Either way it needs to be rebuilt... I'd start with having a clean up bore done on the cylinders, with NEW pistons.

You should always run an antifreeze and water mix... If you're going to run straight water, it needs some kind of lubricant in it, like Water Wetter or some other kind of additive... Other wise it could damage seals.. Water is a great coolant, but a terrible lubricant...

My aggressive dune ported 4mil motor is running 30 pilots and 350 mains FMF Golds, +7 timing, 19cc domes... It's jetted perfect, nice Hershey bar color on the plugs... I started at 330 mains and worked up until it was a little too rich and backed off 1 jet size... 360 was too rich.. I have mains from 280 -360 and pilots from 25-32.5

The aftermarket ones do flow more water... But, the thinness of blades on the aftermarket ones leads to them corroding off, if you use shitty coolant or don't change your coolant often enough.... Aluminum corrodes EASY! With that said I run a PD impeller, but I use genuine Honda car antifreeze in my Banshee, the 50/50 blue stuff. $25.00 per gallon at any Honda dealer. It has corrosion inhibitors in it, specially designed for all aluminum engines.

First is evac the system, replace the reciever/drier they get contaminated (because they have a dessicant inside of them, that absorbs moisure). Put 2ozs. of UV dye in the line(s) running from the reciever/drier... Pull a vac. of 30in on the system and let it sit in vac for at least 15mins.... This will tell you how bad the leak is.. (Kind of like a leakdown tester for a banshee motor, on backwards) it should hold 30in of vac and not decrease... Then recharge the system to spec.. Put it on MAX A/C windows up, engine RPM at 1200... Your low side reading should be around 30-40PSI, the high side reading should be roughly 2.5 times ambient air temp... DO NOT use leak sealer... It will plug the small orfice in the expansion valve, and you will have inferior cooling because of it..... Also it will cause much higher than normal high side pressure and can cause the low side to go into vac. Run the system for a few days, and then check over all the lines, condensor, reciever, compressor with a black light looking for the glowing spot... That is your leak.... If you see no external leaks, it's probably the evap core in the dash..... Which is the more common A/C problem with Chryslers.... I get $400 labor to change them, plus $65 for the recharge, and the part is about $150.

Buy a case of DEXIII (12qts. about $35-40) and change it every ride.. Use 1.5 quarts.

Your stock cover can be modified to fit a lock out cover on it.... I think Mattoon makes a kit that adapts to the stock cover...

Buy new, don't use used pistons... You're just asking for problems.... You need 68mm pistons for that cylinder set-up.

Pull the cylinders, chances are you'll find pistons that are scuffed beyond belief, and the rings stuck or welded to the pistons.... More than likely it was ran lean.... It does not take long to destroy a 2 cycle engine from being ran lean... Less than an hour usually.....

Soak pistons in "Chem-Dip" over night... USE GLOVES do not get it on your hands! Same with the head..Rinse them off first, then wash them in your dishwasher.... Use NEW razor blades to scrape the gaskets... DO NOT SCRATCH OR GOUGE THE METAL SURFACES! Go slowly and be careful..

yes, buy a billet carrier with tapered bearings and never change bearings again....

Interested in carbs and intake.... what is your bottom dollar? PM me

Service Honda CR500, and Maico MX700 were the best dirt bikes I ever owned... The Maico was unreal 700cc 2-stroke single cylinder, close to 100hp.

no, not unless you have a lock out cover... Stock cover, the coolant must be drained.

Drill them out with a drill bit the same size as the shank on the rivet.... Then go to your local hardware store and get ALUMINUM rivets and pop them in place with a rivet gun.

Go 4mil long rod, cut domes, and ported for the 4 mil... Its a very reliable pump gas set-up... The Vitos SS pistons mimic a raised exhaust port ( port job) Vince claims +8hp with his pistons... But, I don't know anyone who has used them...

wow .060 is HUGE! You want your squish between .040 and .050 for pump fuel.. I like them right in middle at .045 with OEM base gaskets. Yes you'll need a jetting change... Higher compression creates more heat, and will need more fuel to cool down the combustion temps... Best to start with a 300 main and do a few plug chops, and fine tune the jetting based off your plug reading.. Don't just guess and cross your fingers... It will bite you in the ass in the long run, and motors are not cheap...

No $300 is not enough... A properly built 4 mil is going to run you a minimum of $1200...With all the supporting mods that go with that build it will more likely be around $2000... Your best bet is to start buying parts and store them until you have everything, then do your build... DO NOT buy the cheapo chinese 4mil crank (wang crank) it WILL break and destroy your motor. DO NOT buy the Athena Big Bore kit, a ported stock cylinder set-up is faster and more reliable. DO NOT use a stroker spacer plate instead of porting and domes. Suspension is not cheap either, for a good set-up you're going to spend at least $2000 (Elkas, +2 A-arms, round house swing arm, not to mention longer brake lines.) I started stock except for FMF Fatty Golds, and i'm aorund $6000 in now, having paid $1000 for the bike.. And, i'm still not where I want to be.....

TORS system is messed up.... Start by disconnecting ALL the TORS sensors and the little black box under the fuel tank... Then report back...

Get ready to drain your savings! LOL You WILL want to go faster guaranteed! And,.... Speed has a price tag...... You won't be disappointed though...

Check your squish with a piece of solder also...

Its not that it makes it leaner, higher compression creates more heat... So, in turn you need more/ higher octane fuel to keep cylinder combustions temps down, so you don't detonate.. I run a 4mil on 19cc domes 150psi with +7 timing on pump fuel, and it RIPS hard with zero detonation... I'm using premium pump gas with Klotz R50 @ 32:1pre-mix

Stock base gasket thickness= .030" I just measured a set of OEM Yamaha gaskets.