Zillaguy

^^^THIS^^^ LMAO very true words right there!

My plan for the winter is to build a 4mill 75mm bore Twister for all around riding... Keep the compression low, and the port times conservative, and it should stay together for a long time... This build should put me around 512cc total.

Don't do it... Thats a scam.... I bought my bike running for a grand.... That bike is only worth 500ish not running and tore down... If the top end let loose, to make sure the motor will last it needs to be completely rebuilt... Not just the top end.... Most likely it was severely overheated when it let loose, which damaged every seal and gasket in the motor... I would send the crank off have it trued, welded and new bearings put on it.... You'll have nearly $1000 into rebuilding a stock motor... You're better of buying something that runs and give yourself a good base to start with, not someone elses problem....

Sand blast them, they will look like clean new aluminum again... ONLY blast the outsides of the cases while the engine in completely dismantled.... don't blast inside the cases. Then clean them good with engine degreaser and a power washer inside and out...

DON'T use synthetic 2-cycle oil until after the break in.... Syn. oils are too slippery and will not allow the rings to seat properly....

Mix at 32:1 run the engine through 2 or 3 heat cycles, re-torque everything, and then ride it like you stole it..

Save your money... Your stock shocks are better...

They are tube welded to billet ball joint bosses... They hardly weigh any thing at all...

I have a set of 64.50mm unported stock cylinders with used pistons for $275 shipped with a gifted paypal payment. Also have a stock unmilled cylinder head.. It all came off my running stock motor... I boxed it all up when i built my 4mill text me @ 586-738-7552 for pics

I'll get some tomorrow morning

Also he doesn't know who the maker is... Are there multiple makers of aluminum arms?

Thinking about building a stock stroke, 64mm bore asphalt bike... A friend of mine has a set of aluminum drag arms for sale... Does anyone have any experience/feedback on these arms? Thanks.

^^^ What Starwriter said^^^^ That is another possible leak from up top.... Those studs draw the cases tight around the crank pod section of the cases.... For it to be leaking there from the inside out would also cause a massive air leak through the cases which would cause a lean condition. The trans oil is seperate from the crankshaft area inside the cases... The oil in the cases is for the trans and clutch only... The only part of the crank that is in that oil is the PTO side...

It could be the clutch actuator shaft leaking oil and draining down through that hole in the cases.... But more than likely if you had the clutch cover off at any point it's the o-ring on the coolant transfer tube.

I knew what you meant... if you look up from the bottom of the engine there is a 1/2"-5/8" hole that goes through the cases to let water and crap drain so it does not sit on the motor.... When that o-ring leaks the coolant runs down out that hole and looks like the "bolts" (which are actually studs with nuts on them) are leaking.

More than likely it's coolant leaking at the tube that goes into the clutch cover... The o-ring on the tube gets damaged or rolled and it will leak past the tube then drip through the drain hole in the center of the cases below the cylinders... ALWAYS lube that o-ring with assembly lube or RTV before you install the clutch cover... Remember lube is your friend! LOL

I run a 4mill with an aggressive dune port on stock carbs... The bike rips, lots of power every where in the RPM range.. Stock carbs are good up until the 80ish HP range.. As stated before, your money is better spent else where in your build... The price of a good set of carbs is roughly the cost of a port job.... But, in the end it's your money...

Pipes still available? If so can I get good pic of them, I'm interested but waht to see the condition of the silencers and chrome.

Also make 100% sure ALL of your ground connections are clean (bare metal) and are lightly dielectric greased... Including your coil mounts...

I re-wired my entire electrical system, all new wire, with Weatherpack male/female automotive connectors (2, 3, and 4 terminal)... I would start there if I were you... In my experience CDI's don't fail and still work... They usually just fail and thats it... Go to Harbor Freight and by the wire caddy they have, it has all the wire you'll need, and UAS (United Auto Supply) has the Weatherpack connectors..

What is the issue you're having Tricked?

Tyson Racing did mine, it works awesome. It was $150.

I always run forged pistons a little loose... That way when they are at operating temp they are within spec.. Other wise they will be too tight at op. temp. and can lead to heat seizure.

The cc's of the dome is not related to the +4... The +4 is how deep the domes are cut so the pistons can recieve into them with a stroker crank... The cc's are determined by the size and shape of the combustion chamber, and squish band clearance.