Zillaguy

The combustion chambers in the head need to be cut 2mm deeper so the piston can recieve into them... If you go long rod 4mil you need Wiseco 795 series stroker pistons, so the piston skirts clear the crankshaft at BDC ( bottom dead center). DO NOT USE A SPACER PLATE!!! Have a reputable builder port your cyls. for the stroker. This is not a slap it together and run kind of thing.... You need a coolhead with stroker cut domes, a crankshaft, Wiseco 795 pistons (if you go long-rod), porting for the stroker, all new gaskets and seals, then there are the supporting mods, adjustable timing plate, shifting mods (modded shift-shaft, modded shift star, bearing upgrade for the detent arm), cut trans, Pingle high-flow petcock, reeds, intakes, pipes, etc.etc.... I have gone down this road over this winter and have about $2000 give or take invested into building my 4mil long-rod...

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/mike_morgan3/media/DSCF7152.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0#/user/mike_morgan3/media/DSCF7152.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0&_suid=136572786770205778243136729757 http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/mike_morgan3/media/DSCF7152.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0#/user/mike_morgan3/media/DSCF7149.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1&_suid=136572786770205778243136729757 http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/mike_morgan3/media/DSCF7152.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0#/user/mike_morgan3/media/DSCF7148.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2&_suid=136572786770205778243136729757 http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/mike_morgan3/media/DSCF7152.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0#/user/mike_morgan3/media/DSCF7143.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3&_suid=136572786770205778243136729757 These are pics of my levers and e-bay rad.

Engine Ice

NO loc-tite on head bolts! If they are leaky try using a little Permatex "Aviation brown glue" on the threads... It works awesome on leaky threads, i use it on automotive transmissions everytime i rebuild one... (I rebuild at least 20 transmissions per year)

Hot Rods all day long!

I have the oversized e-bay rad. it works and looks awesome... I also run ASV levers clutch and brake side, also run their rotator clamp on my front master cyl., and their dust cover on my clutch lever.. The levers work great and are "unbreakable".

wow 68.5 on stock cyls.?! I thought 66mm was pushing stock cyls...Is there any sleeve left? You won't get very efficient cooling with cyls that thin... You should Cub it...

exhaust port roof= 28.45mm floor=56.51mm transferport roof=43.56mm floor=56.70mm Is this port timing correct for a 4mil long rod? Also is this going to be a stupid high-strung set-up for trails, and the occasional drag with my friends..

the only issue i've had is the delrin bushings suck.... Alba needs to make a replacement that is made of graphite impregnated bronze.... My delrins were wasted after 2 rides (8 hrs.)

Make sure reeds and intakes are removed...Clean the cylinders in mineral spirits, inside and out, very good... Blow them dry with compressed air, inside and out until dry.. Lube cyl walls lightly, lube upper and lower rod bearings, also lube piston rings.. use whatever brand of 2 stroke oil you use.

No i sent it as payment owed or something... Not a gift..

I think I could handle the job... Just would like to hear some specifics from someone who has done this.. Would you want it matched at TDC? If not where in the stroke does the piston need to be to match the windows with the intake port... I wouldn't want to take too much off the top, or bottom... just match them..

That seems like it would work good to dry it out.. I was only joking..

oh yeah I paid him $375.00 for the cyls, domes and pistons

He sold me a set of "perfect" 64mm 4 mill cyls with domes... They were not perfect had a gouge i think .020" deep where the circlip came out and jammed.. had to bore them to 65.50 to clean them up.. I bought them because he said they were "perfect", and I wanted an O.G bore, not .060" over...

Has anyone ever matched the piston windows to the intake ports?

^^^^ Supercharged! LOL^^^

LOL WTF is going on, on this thread?!! HAHAHAHAHAHA

I have a good stock crank for sale, if your interested..

^lol

Kerosene works awesome as an aluminum polish... i drip a little bit on the wheel while its spinning, and start polishing... An old school trucker taught me, he polished all the aluminum on his truck like that...

It was so easy to mount my Pingle.... No RTV, no drilling, no worrying about fuel leaks, no having to remember to turn both petcocks on... It's cool this can be done... But isn't this why Pingle makes a high-flow dual feed? Just seems like alot of effort for something someone already makes, and is known to work flawlessly..

choke tube, or the carb bowls are mixed up...

Air hammer.. Snap-On PH-3050B will do it.