Zillaguy

I had some bulk 8mm Taylor Spiro-core wire, and some MSD 90 degree plug ends on hand... So, I made a set of wires for my bike about 2 years ago, and have not had one problem.... I di-electric greased the wires and pushed them in... I reused the original plug wire retainer, and put it on the new wires so I did not need zip ties... The wires fit tight and don't pull out... All in all it cost me $12 to make the wires..

All, they thread into the frame..

Rob does nice work and he is very reasonably priced.... He did a set of 4mill ported cyls for a friend of mine... 517-388-3662

Thank you ^^^ Exactly what I wanted to know!

Pretty sure "The Banshee Shack" is now "DM Racing"... He moved out of the house and into a building... They are more into side x side/RZR now though... I have a set of their 4mill aggressive dune ported stock cyls. and they are nothing short of art work... The transfers and perfect!

Anyone have any info on the Motion Pro Armor cables? Are they bare braided on the outside or do have the clear plastic coating like on stainless brake hoses?

Crackhead white trash does what crackhead white trash does..... That is why I own guns... He deserves to be dealt with like they do in some middle eastern countries.... Hands cut off with a dirty sword, no anesthetic....

Found out that it means 23cc, 13* squish angle, cut .110" into the head..

I have a set of domes for my 4mil banshee that have numbers engraved on the side edge of the dome... Numbers are 23, 13, 110 what do those numbers mean?

Head gasket most likely.... It's not boiling, it's pressurizing, and blowing the pressure relief cap at 1.0Bar of pressure or about 15psi...

You should be at 290 main, you are WAY too rich!

this guy has this one for sale with fenders for $130... He is cool i bought a billet stator cover from him... http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bar/4262928818.html

Tyson Racing

I use a long straight punch and a 4lb sledge hammer.... Works perfect..

I had the same noise in my motor.... It was louder on the clutch side and I thought it was a rod bearing, or possibly a main... What it ended up being was the clutch basket..... I replaced my stocker with a mattoon 8 plate and the noise was gone and has been gone since...

What laypeople usually consider to be a carb "rebuild" is actually a very thorough cleaning... With some type of solvent and/or compressed air.... As long as the bowl gaskets are not torn during disassembly they are reuseable.... It's very easy to do yourself.... Get 2 cans of Brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner ( I prefer Brake cleaner) COMPLETELY disassemble (i.e all jets and venturi tube, air screw and spring.. ONE carb at a time, and then clean them very good and blow them dry with an air compressor and blow gun.... Make sure to blow through all the holes and ports in the carb bodies... It takes me less than 45 mins to do both carbs from taking them off the bike to running again....

Are you wanting to run stock carbs or kehins? On stock carbs (Mikuni 26mm) I'd say start 350 mains 30 pilots and fine tune from there doing a couple plug chops/reads until it's perfect.... Rule of thumb start fat and lean out from there if needed.... On stock carbs you'll probably end up at a 330 main and 27.5 pilot..

What?!?! NO!

I was curious about purging... Why do you need to purge with gasoline? Does alcohol damage things if it is left in the carbs/motor?

If you buy a Pivot Works rear linkage bearing kit, it comes with the dust caps....

Flywheel key

the bowl with the BB is the left carbs bowl.

Tapered bearings ARE proven.... Ask any auto manfacturer, they have been using tapered bearings in everything from axles to wheel bearings and transmissions, since the 40's.... Tapered bearings are far superior because they have 5 times the surface area of a ball type bearing... And, can handle 10 times the load or greater than a ball type bearing.... IF you adjust the preload correctly on a tapered bearing it will not fail.... The main cause for tapered bearing failure is user incompetence.... Or, lack of lubrication... Again user incompetence....

The tapered bearing carrier is WAY stronger than a carrier with a ball type bearing....

I run the inner ones, not the outer ones.... I do alot of trail riding though, and it does help keep shit off the brakes...