Zillaguy

what a fucktard!

P.S. Got enough light in your work area? LOL windy that light should be overhead.... That thing has to be blinding, and has to shadow the shit out of the work area.... OP you should polish that master cylinder instead of painting it.... The paint WILL peel off, polish always looks good, and is easy to maintain... X3 on scrap piling the dust guards for the front wheels.... I made chinese stars out of mine! It was all fun and games until my buddy got it in the shin! LOL

are the CPI's in or out of frame?

Nope.... You need the actuator, push rod, ball, and a PANCAKE BEARING... The pancake bearing will stop that from happening... Chariot Performance makes a nice one...

Hotrods cranks don't have the line up pins... They use o-rings on the bearings.

Ditch the single carb, and put dual carbs on it.... They are lazy on the bottom with a single carb, duals will make it more responsive...

It is probably a stock stroke long rod crank... No way there is a Twister crank in that motor.... I was thinking the same thing, that no one makes a 5mil stroker crank except for a custom build... And, it most likely does not have a high dollar crank, with cheapo cyls like Athena... Whoever he bought it from lied there ass off, to sell that bike..... It NEEDS to be sent to someone who knows how to build custom Banshee engines, not the local powersport guy.... The site sponsors deal with more Banshee engines in a week than the local guy will do in 5 years....

Holy shit did you see how filthy that assembly area, and the inside of the cases were?!?!?! There were metal shavings ALL over everything! I bet that motor did not last very long! Oh my god, so peoples kids!

Yes totally PR!

Take it apart and check your clearances... Asking us isn't going to tell you anything.... It needs to be disassembled and inspected/measured.

^^That is your problem.... ^^^ They should come out easily, if they don't that is an issue guaranteed!

1) Mull Engineering makes a billet aluminum gear for the W/P... I have one they work well.... 2) 68mm is considered big bore, any bore size up to 68mm uses standard bore domes. 3) .040 over is not going to effect compression... That is going to be determined by dome size, porting, and elevation. 4) 20cc is about as small as i'd go trying to run pump fuel safely... 5) Yes the big o-ring comes in the kit for the head..

Custom mandrel bend them yourself... Mandrel bends are the cleanest looking by far.... PFR in Cali. made me a few custom hand coned pipes for old Maico and RZ 500 projects i did... They had a mandrel bent header tube on every pipe Eric ever made for me.

Silver Lake sucks, way too many people at any given time.... If you want to come to MI and ride you're better off going to Mio and riding the Huron National Forest (Bull Gap) if you go during the week no one is up there... Plus, the DNR office in Mio is closed on Wednesday, so you can run anything you want no issues.... And, Mio allows ATV's on the roads into town for gas and restaurants... Personally I hate riding when there are hundreds of other people around, crowds cause problems and accidents...

^^^^ What he said^^^^^ best bet is to just change them out, they are cheap....

Billet basket????

What is your plug reading after a WOT and kill pull? That is going to tell you a lot... Usually a WOT bog is lean, best thing to do first is check the jetting to see where it's at...

Exactly right about having the center to center, and off-set dead nuts... And, the secondary has to float slightly on the shaft, or it will eat belts in a flash! Or worst case scenario the crank breaks and turns that clutch into a grenade!

I had a similar problem and it was a plugged pilot jet in the carb....

Sounds like an ignition system problem to me..

I painted two years ago during my rebuild.... It looked awesome, was painted with a spary gun and good automotive enamel... I scuffed, 2 coats self-etching primer,2 coats silver base coat,3 coats candy GM aqua metallic, and 3 coats ceramic engine clear, and then baked in it my friends drying booth... It was fine for the first season, then last season it chipped and peeled all over.. What a waste of time painting was... Getting it powdered this winter, same color and virtually the same price as it cost to paint it.... I have had both powdered and painted, and powder is 1000000000000x more durable.

Race Reflections is pretty awesome.... Dave bought my old clutch cover that was all notched up from the brake pedal... He sent me after pics and you couldn't even tell there ever was a notch/gouge in it... I would for sure use him for any type of polishing...

Tyson does a nice Pro-Mod... I run one and do the same type of riding you do.... Combined with a Cascade mod shift star, a modded shift shaft, and the Mull detent mod, the trans is like butter between shifts.... I can even shift it similar to an over-ride.... I launch is second, pin the throttle, and just clutch and shift, with the throttle pinned the whole time... It just takes a blip of the clutch for it to shift with ease.

Grand River Racing

Where are you in MI? I'm in Westland and am interested in the clutch parts...