Zillaguy

Unless it's a slightly leaky head gasket...

Bundy Hill ORV Park is near Jackson... There is also a gravel pit at Mound Rd. and Inwood Rd. in Washington Twp. Inwood is between 30 and 31 mile... you turn left off Mound onto Inwood and there are gravel pits to your left and right... There is another gravel pit on Hamlin Rd between Ryan Rd and Dequindre in Shelby Twp. If not just take it to Freelin MX track for a test and tune day..

Really Matt? If so now i feel like a total dick for talking shit to you... You are pretty young for all that mess, are you in remission now?

^^Yeah what he said^^ You can run any silencer you want as long as it fits correctly and seals....

27.5 pilot and a 290 main, needle on the middle clip, 1.5 turns out on the pilot air screws... Thats what I ran in my stockish motor...330 is WAY too rich for a stockish motor. I run B8ES, no R you don't need the resistor..... B8EGV is an awesome plug, but your jetting needs to be spot on or they will foul... They last forever in a properly tuned engine though..

Someone will pinch your stingers closed, so they don't have to hear that annoying noise!

post pics

This was mod done to RC glow motors too... They call it a turbo cut crank... I can't see it doing anything really.. I get the concept but there isn't a tight enough tolerance in the cases to compress air like that... More snake oil for the snake oil sales people, kind of like a boost bottle ehh!

Michigan is the same way.. You can have a police officer inspect it and sign off on it, then get an "assembled title". it's the same way for any type of custom built vehicle... Go to your DMV and ask for an "Assembled title form"... Tell them it's a custom frame.. They really don't care as long as you follow their guidelines, and have $$$$$$$ LOL BUT, make sure the numbers on your engine are good.. That they will check for sure....

That thing is bent BAD! Might as well scrap it and get an A-arm frame... Chances are thats not the only bent spot....

I think it's in

Alky is for racing to keep combustion temps in check, and to run more radical timing curves, and higher compression without detonating..

"Let off some steam Bennett"

Its probably a screw metered carb, like a Walbro pumper on a weed whip..

In theory a lightened flywheel will rev out quicker, with less torque... A stock flywheel takes a little longer to rev out, but is torquier.. You want stock for trail riding.. I know a few guys that do Trials riding and actually put weights on their flywheels, to give the motors more rotating mass.. It helps with those quick standing uphill launches..

take the head off and inspect it for yourself...

Out of the box they suck... There is someone that does some pretty radical porting on those cylinders, and has luck with them... But to just bolt on and go they suck.. Save your money and buy a Cub or Serval 68mm cylinder.. If you want more power, do a 4mil stock cylinder set-up.. Then when you're ready to go to a 68mm aftermarket cyl, you already have a 4mil which will give you a 421cc motor...

Timing plate, pancake bearing, Pingle dual feed, billet impeller, bigger radiator, inline temp gauge or Trail Tech, are musts for a 4mil build.. I'm running a 4mil pump gas motor right now the specs are in my signature.

My pump gas, stock cyl. 4mil LOVES +7, it seems to rev out quicker @+7 than @ +4... I'm running my squish band clearance at .050" which keeps the compression in check so I can run pump gas and +7... Just be careful to listen for deto under a big load.. if no deto occurs you're good...

68mm bore and 58mm stroke makes 421cc

x3 on getting rid of the chinese shocks... You're better off with the stockers, and some Outerwears if they look bad... Bike looks nice though!

Thank you for answering my question!... I thought they were .5mm over, but those damn inaccurate calipers tricked me! LOL I was referring to a snap gauge.. These are my old cylinders, and are still in good shape, I boxed them up when i built my 4mil over the winter with an already 4mil ported set of cyls... How much do you charge to take these to 65mm bore and aggressive 4mil port them?.... Also what port job yields more power an aggressive MX/trail port or an aggressive dune port?

I run a 4mil stock cylinder, 4 mil aggressive dune port, 65.00mm bore, Coolhead w/ 19cc stroker cut domes (pump gas), FMF Gold Series, timing plate +7, VF3, billet intakes stock carbs.. It runs pretty sweet, massive improvement over a stock stroke motor... alot more torque for sure! I do the same kind of riding you do, and was thinking 421 cub or serval until I did the research on the 4mil stock cylinder set-up.. Glad I went this way it's a blast to ride in the woods.. Not overpowered, just.. Perfect! LOL

I'm using a Mitutoyo digital caliper measuring the crown across the wrist pin and the skirt from front to back....The bore is being measured with a bore gauge, then measured with the digital caliper...

Alright guys I have a wierd one here... The I.D. of the cylindes are 64.15 give or take where you're measuring in the bore.. (They are from a 1994 machine) The pistons are Wiseco and on the crown are stamped 0.50mm and 513P2 the O.D of the piston measures 63.90mm ish.. The question is... Are these 64.00mm stock bore cylinders, or as the crown of the piston says a 64.50mm bore? I'm confused because the measurments tell me it's 64mm and the crown of the piston is stamped 513P2 and 0.50mm which is a 64.50mm bore.. SMH