Zillaguy

27 pilot and 290 main, middle clip, 1.5 turns out on pilot air screw. Thats what i ran with pods and FMF golds on stock carbs.. It was perfectly jetted....

What is the condition of the needles and seats? Are the needles slightly grooved on the tip where they contact the seat? if so they could be leaking and overfilling the bowls which will cause a rich condition... That may be why it changed when you adjusted the floats... I had an old Husqvarna WR430 2 stroke, and that thing was pig rich, and wouldn't take a tune, i found the needle and seat to be bad...

Pressure washer, and dish detergent in a bucket, wool wash mit. Then Mother's liquid aluminum polish on all the aluminum and chrome. Also i don't ride my bike in mud on purpose.. Only if it can't be avoided, then I find the best path through so my bike does not get covered.

Stock is supposed to be .020" I was told by Tyson... When i was building my 4mill, I needed .020 base gaskets. The K&S gaskets i got were .030, but when torqued they squished to .021.. I disassembled and re-measured the gaskets, just to be sure..

stick with the banshee power plant, cheetah cub cyl and stroke it you'll be 100hp or better all day long...

east coast atv sells a complete 4mil on ebay for 1500, and they are a site sponsor

4mm long rod crank, Wiseco 795 series pistons, Coolhead with 4mm cut domes (pump gas), cylinder porting for the 4mm (don't run a spacer plate!), gasket kit, seal kit, high flow water pump, Mull billet waterpump drive gear, oversized radiator, temp gauge, adjustable timing plate, good pipes, Pingle dual feed petcock, Driveline clutch, modded shift star, Mull detent bearing upgrade,modded shift shaft, trail cut trans (optional), V-Force 3's or 4's, billet intakes, 28mm PWK's, K&N pods with outerwears... This list should get you in the right direction....

One million dollars!!!! Mwahhahahahaha

Yamaha dealer....

Just send your domes in and have them cut.... I think FAST is around 75 or 80 bucks for cut domes..

It's most likely that POS stator... I had a Rick Stator new in the box, it was defective right from the rip..... Ended up scrapping the stator and pick-up coil, used the timing plate w/the stock electronics, and then it worked..... DON'T buy Chinese products!

I was thinking about remote mounting a H/L switch, and using a billet kill switch... But wouldn't a stock style billet piece look sweet?! Thanks Jesse P

I wouldn't do it with a mig... The beads aren't very small or precision with a mig welder.. the window in the shift shaft where the eccentric adj. screw sits needs to be ground out a little so the shift shaft can move further up, before it hits the adj. screw.. Don't take out too much....

I'd mod the shift star and shift shaft, while I had it apart... Just need a dremel with a rotory file, for cutting hardened steel... It will help it shift alot smoother under power... Almost eliminates missing 2nd gear... Also mod your stator plate so you can advance the timing to +4 degrees.... I would also tig weld the crank pins, just to make sure it doesn't twist... These are all mods you can do in your garage, yourself...

x3 on slipping clutch... After I went to a 650cc Roidzilla motor on my Quadzilla the clutch would make nasty noises when it was coming on the power band... It also would make the noise at loww RPM's with a big load on the engine.. Like when you stop on a hill and try to take back off. I ended up have to use a carbon fiber clutch, w/SUPER heavy clutch springs and that took care of it... But, the clutch pull effort was stupid hard, even with an ASV easy-pull lever..

What I want is the whole deal, the plastic headlight switch looks like shit... I was hoping someone made a billet combo switch specific for the Banshee.

Does anybody make one?

is the o-ring in place?

Klotz Super Techniplate 32:1

Yeah Tricked that trans is SWEEEET! We are slow with cars today, so I'm going to assemble my 4mil, on my trans build bench... The best thing about being the boss is being able to do whatever you want, when you want! LOL Hopefully I should have it done, back in the bike, and tuned by 6:00PM! Hopefully! LOL I can't wait to try out that trans... No more missing second!

x3^^^^^^ Grounds

The shift shaft mod is easy as well... i did mine with a dremel and a straight cutting bit... you need to cut a little out of the bottom of the window where the eccentric adjuster screw hits, so the shaft can move up more.. I have the Mull Engineering detent bearing, and it's a nice piece.

I have only seen the spacers that go between cases and cyls...

LOL sorry I had to draw it out on paper! I need visuals! Lol you are right... the 4mill stroker will put 2mm higher at the top, and 2mm lower at the bottom, coupled with a 5mm longer rod you need an offset wrist pin to make up the difference...

Hmmm... I was under the impression that the piston skirts would crash into the crank at BDC without them being 795 or running a spacer plate...