Zillaguy

I bought a billet plug and plugged mine. There is no need for it when you have a vent on the rear of the cases... Both are transmission vents...

The extra air might give it more power on that cylinder! LOL

That is WAY off^^^ At your elevation that is too much fuel... Figure, less oxygen you need less fuel... I'd say 280-300 main and 27.5-30 pilot max. LOL 470 mains, yeah if you were in a 50% oxygen environment!

The problem I was having was cruising just under the powerband... It would stutter slightly before the powerband... But, it only did it cruising at 1/4 throttle trying to stay off the pipe.. If i was drag racing and did WOT pulls I never noticed it... I found out they are Toomey needles, and they did what they claimed to do... The mid-range stutter is gone, and it feels crisper everywhere..

290 main 27.5 pilot should be perfect for your setup.. Also trya set of aftermarket needles in the slides... Makes a HUGE difference in the mid range...

Alba arms don't use end caps... You should have 4 aluminum caster spacers for the upper arms. Set it up so there is a spacer on the front and rear of the upper arms only..

I got some what i'm assuming are aftermarket needles for stock carbs... They have no i.d numbers on them, but are longer than the stock 5N7 needles... They have 6 clip positions instead of 5, and are blunt on the top end instead of rounded... They came in a set of carbs a friend gave me... I installed them and they really cleaned up the mid-range cruising stutter I was having... Has anyone seen these type of needles before, and who makes a needle like this? dyno-jet, toomey, vitos?

Sounds like a main bearing...

Heat them with a torch, Mapp gas will work fine... Then turn them with a pipe wrech, turn the outer one first.. There is a special wrench for those, it's called a "spanner wrench".

I have a set of FMF golds that have been welded on the inside of the right chamber... They are in decent shape w/silencers $75 plus shipping

Remove the pilot jet in the carb from the cyl that dies, and clean it... I had a similar problem last summer, it was a partially plugged pilot jet...

You can use stock pistons with a short rod...

I'm running stock carbs on a ported 4mill stock cyl.. What type of riding are you wanting to do? 39mm is too big IMO unless you're drag racing, only... I'd so no bigger than 33-34mm if you want an all around kind of bike... A lot of guys are running bigger carbs like that, but I don't see the advantage... Unless you're WOT all the time.. You get crisper/snappier throttle response with a smaller carb... But, if your cylinders have exhaust port timings 198* or higher, chances are it's drag ported, and you won't have the bottom end power you're looking for..

It is a Durablue. Looks stock length.

1 hoodie XL- black with blue/silver

My Banshee drops panties! LOL

I ride Bundy Hill a lot... I also ride The Huron National Forest too in Mio. (Bull Gap)

I'd start around 25-27.5 pilot, 270-290 main, needle middle clip, 1.5 turns on pilot air screw..

40mm carbs seem like way too much carb for a small motor... The smaller the carb the more velocity the intake charge has... Which will help primary compression a great deal.... With a big carb you decrease that velocity and get less effective crankcase filling... And you loose signal strength to mouth of the carb... Pressure is made by dead ends..

the caliper slides are seized... The caliper needs to be able to float on the pins... Your best bet is to buy the caliper rebuild kit, and rebuild it...

I believe the "poor mans" CPI's are unstamped, have steel silencers, and are painted black instead of chromed.. Where do you ride in Michigan?

I have the mod quad billet brake pedal but it's hitting my Hinson lockout cover.... I have adjusted it every which way but it still hits... When I get it adjusted to not hit, the brakes hardly apply! I found out Hinson made a billet pedal shaped for their lockout covers... They quit making the lockout covers and the pedal.... I was able to find a mint cover, and don't want it damaged... So any help would be appreciated! Thanks guys!

I run the Mull engineering billet w/p drive gear... I had the same problem with my stock motor... The billet gear is the perfect fix for that problem... I'd also go with the Chariot oversized billet impeller kit.... Don't for get to change the seal too! Sometimes it's hard to install the impeller through the seal without damaging the seal... So, I use a valve seal protector on the impeller shaft so it can slide through without damaging the seal... You need a 10mm valve seal protector sleeve....

A 421 is 4mm stroker (58mm stroke) and a 68mm bore... The best bang for your buck is to do a 4mm stroker ported stock cylinder setup... You'll need to have the cylinders ported for a 4mil, a 4mil crank 795 series Wiseco pistons, domes cut for the stroker, and some type of a cool head... Stock carbs are good to 80ish hp... You'll be fine on stock carbs... Bigger carbs are not all their cracked up to be on stock cylinders unless your drag racing all the time...... If you go bigger you lose throttle response, but they scream up top, and are slightly boggy off idle...

Come on guys someone has to have one of these laying around! Bump