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Zillaguy

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Everything posted by Zillaguy

  1. First two things needed are compression test and leak down test..
  2. I ahve seen guys take the nipples out of the carbs and tap them to 1/8" pipe thread. Then thread AN fittings in the carbs and in the Pingle. Then use double wall braided stainless line with nice screw together AN fittings... Makes for a clean leak free set-up.. AN fittings are expensive though..
  3. If it's stock with pipes and reeds you'd be lucky to get $2500, super lucky!
  4. Agreed Tricked! I'm going to cut my frame this winter, glad I found this thread... I'll be removing all the useless stuff.. And, adding some tube in the spots where there are stamped gussets.
  5. Just bought +1 stem w/antivibe clamp. Anyone ever have issues with cables not being long enough? Haven't got it yet but just curious...
  6. I had an 89 YZ490, fun bike... Sold it on Ebay for $1500, guy drove from Atlanta Georgia to Detroit, Mi. to pick it up! lol
  7. The ASV clutch lever I got from ATV Galaxy had a cable spacer in with the kit.... It is an aluminum spacer that slips over the cable and shims it away from the adjuster on the lever.... My kit had clutch & brake levers, 2 rotator clamps and dust guards for both levers.
  8. What kind of HP & TQ is this top end capable of? What type of porting, and if you know what port times? 75mm bore?
  9. R2's have the coupler for the stinger tube welded directly to the head pipe.. That is the easiest way to tell.
  10. This can't be for real, right?
  11. Almost any Audi... Or BMW..... Once you drive a German car you won't look at other cars the same again.... You'll compare everyother kind of car to your "Ultimate driving machine", and none will compare!
  12. I'm suprised ^he^ types numbers AND letters.... I was under the impression he could only say "Sloth love Chunk."
  13. Nick really doesn't know shit.... He's just a kid that regurgitates google searches, and everyone elses talking points.... Jim, your best bet is to NOT respond to any of his posts.... If he's ignored he'll go away...
  14. 1. Clean them in mineral spirits first... 2. Spray them with Foamy Enginebrite let it soak. 3. Powerwash them with HOT water... Then blow them dry with compressed air and start polishing.... Make sure to clean them in hot soapy water after polishing. Last step rebuff them with a microfiber cloth, and some aluminum polish.
  15. Race Reflections (David Chitwood) does a nice job too, and is a sponsor.
  16. Cut trans shift drum bearing mod Mull shift detent bearing modded shift shaft billet impeller billet impeller drive gear port match cases
  17. he's in South Lyon, MI. 7 mile Rd. and Pontiac Trail... I'll see if I can find his address
  18. They have a 10mm hex head on them, and they are 6mm x 1.00... Not sure on length maybe 16mm????
  19. He did a pro-mod for me, and it works awesome... Plus, he is a cool guy to deal with....
  20. try 340-350 on the main and 30-35 on the pilot... Needles middle clip, pilot air screws 1.5 turns out.
  21. LOL he said keep the rod and the ball lubed! AHHAHAHAHA
  22. I have a set of slides and needles.. I might have springs, but i'll have to check tomorrow morning when I get to my shop.
  23. Loose the boost bottle... Here in lower mi you should be around a 290main 27.5 pilot air screw at 1.5 turns needle on the middle clip
  24. I'd say 290-300 main and 27.5 maybe 30 pilot but I doubt that big.
  25. Make sure his pro-mod has the shift drum modded with a bearing.. also have the cases modded so the shift shaft is on bearings too... My pro-mod is one of the best mods i've done to my bike... I can shift at WOT without letting off the throttle, and no missed shifts.. With this trans it takes zero effort to upshift, just a blip of the clutch, and it shifts like butter.
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