350iroc

I'm back to this post after way to long. I have continued fighting the carburetors sticking when encountering water issue since my last post back in 2011. I wanted to provide an update to the changes I've made with positive results but unfortunately I haven't been able to eliminate the issue completely. As a reminder I was having this happen to me with my old motor and my new motor. Now here is what I've replaced since my 2011 post. New stater, new coil, new intake boots, new air box design, new carburetor caps and cable for the TORS eliminator kit, new exhaust bushings including o-ring seals and springs. I also and to add to the mystery have installed a different set of stock carbs that a buddy gave me. A set of carbs I've seen in action dozens of times on my buddies quad and he never ever not even once had this issue! I've since rebuilt them including a new choke assembly and replaced the cross-over fuel line tube. I'm also using the slides and needles that came with the replacement carbs. Now people, even with all those changes I still to this day fight with the big question of why is this happening! So my buddy sends me a link on Carb Icing: Carburetor Icing, or carb icing, is an icing condition which can affect any carburetor under certain atmospheric conditions. Carburetor icing occurs when there is humid air, and the temperature drop in the venturi causes the water vapor to freeze. The ice will form on the surfaces of the carburetor throat, further restricting it. This may increase the Venturi effect initially, but eventually restricts airflow, perhaps even causing a complete blockage of air to the carburetor. The engine begins to run more rich as ice formation increases. Without intervention (carb heat or leaning) this can only continue until the mixture is outside of the "chemically correct" range for combustion. Icing may also cause jamming of the mechanical parts of the carburetor, such as the throttle. Also here is a cool video of the icing in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBjZHl7HscA Any comments on this possible cause presented?

**You needed to also ask if a aftermarket head with domes are being used.** (Stock size domes) 1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? (FMF Fatty) 2) What type of airfilter do you have? (K&N) 3) Are you running a airbox (yes stock airbox with lid snorkel removed) 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) (750ft) 5) What size pilot jets are you using? (30) 6) What size main jets are you using? (280) 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? (Summer 70-90) 8) Do you have a port job? (Yes) 9) What kind of carbs? (Stock) 10) What size carbs? (26mm)

I don't have pictures but his slides are very clean looking as mine have that black carbon look to them. I have reed spacers on my quads input. He uses a modified pluming elbow as a snorkel. Both K&N but mine no outer wear and his has one. I'm going to try cleaning up these slides on a wheel and go from K&N to a foam filter to see what happens.

Have you ever seen this Banshee Vid? You just have to love the Banshee when you see this...!

What we need is a small camera we can mount inside the air filter with a small led flashlight and record the action. If we could figure this out there must be a way to shield the problem. My mind keeps going round and round with this as only some Banshees do this. In fact some of my friends that run no air lid don't have this problem.

Thanks for the reply and offer on the spacers/centering guides. I would like to try them and report my findings if your willing. To add to this post I went riding out in Omish country here in Ohio and it was dry as a bone down there. My quad ran good without issue. Its just and only when its muddy with puddles. I just don't trust the aftermarket Carb caps and rubber cable boots either I have. I really would just like to get a good set of flat slides and set it and forget it! I'm so so sick of taking these carbs apart time and time again. Can anyone say by switching to flatslides carbs this problem for sure goes away? If so the water/mist entering the air box should have the same effect on the flat slide replacements yes? On a side note I noticed your pilot jet was set to 27.5. Have you ever run a 30 and if so how did it act? I'm at 30 now with 320 main but the quad seams to gurgle once it gets hot. I so badly want to get this quad running near perfect. I've been doing this guessing game since 1995 and still have yet to get it right. Thanks again to everyone's input. This site rocks!

I had a buddy at camp also with a Banshee and we switched coils to see what would happen. Same result on mine and his ran fine. We both have the same stock carbs with T.O.R.E.S. removed but this has never ever happened to him. In fact I have around 4 friends with Banshee's this has never happened to. We ride the same trails in the same mud and water and I'm the only on this happens to. I myself also lean towards carbs being the issue. It must be in the caps some way I would imagine. I'm going to save up for some 28mm PWK flat slides but now I'm clueless to how to jet her. I have all the normal mods: +4 timing, porting, phat head w/stock compression, FMF pipes, K&N filter, carbon fiber reeds, reed spacers. I live in Cleveland Oh and sit a Sea Level. It rains a ton so not getting wet is not a option. Any advice on jetting with the mods I have described above. Thanks in advance people. You guys are great!

I'm having a problem when I encounter wet/muddy conditions with my Banshee. When the trail gets sloppy my quad starts to run like crap. As soon as I hit a puddle the throttle acts like its sticking but its not. The rpm's increase enough and act like a cruise control. As soon as you bip the throttle the RPM's come down to normal but the engine starts to run like crap. The air box is dry so I know no water is getting in there. I drove her back to camp and changed the plugs and drove down the gravel street a few times. At first she was perfect and slowly got worse with the same issue described above. I only have this problem when its wet out. Would water getting into the fly wheel cover produce this issue? Possible Air leak cause this? My tors are removed from the carbs and run the air box lid but with the snorkel removed. The motor I'm using is brand new this year. I need to mention I was having this same problem with my old motor. I reused the carbs and wiring harness from the old motor including my Ricky Stator for my second set of head lights. Any advice as I can't take this anymore!