midlifecrisis

Can I get a good shot of the axle sent to me at [email protected], is it stock length, and what is included?

Is that a stock length swinger, axle setup etc?

You need to order a top end kit, and use the appropriate gasket for these 2 items. Do yourself a favour, and order 2 kits, that way if something gets screwed up during reassembly, you dont have to wait a week before you get your new set. If you put it back together perfectly the first time, thern you will have a spare second set for the next rebuild.

New setup, new cable thats the way it works. I learned the hard way too, as I changed from a stock setup to a twist and didnt get a cable with it. Then I waited a week to get my twist cable in as well. By the way, does anyone want to buy a twist throttle setup, I only put one ride on it before I switched back to a thumb! BTW, smart move buying a shee, welcome to your new addiction.

Smith is correct as well. You take your jugs to the shop, allow them to mic your cylinders to let you know what size to buy, then once they arrive, the shop will take out the correct amount of material to maintain the size of your cylinders for as long as possible. Boring them too big will only shorten their life, and cause you to have to source out a new set earlier, or have them resleeved. You can only buy new pstons up to 2.5mm over the original 64mm bore (this translates into .100" over) .25mm roughly equals 0.010"

Ill take the plastics if nobody else will. Im in Canada, so shoot me a cost for shipping to L1N1B2.

Interested in the asv levers, and the polished rear brake setup, email me at fulldeck@rogers,com or PM me, Paypal ready

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I usually keep track of which one goes where with a piece of tape, but not this time. Why would it make a difference?

Just for the record, the petals were changed before it started to rev up. Ive got some jets on order, so we'll see what happens

Forgot to add my feedback when I got my parts. Always a pleasure doing business with you Alf, even shipped during sandfest.

Super happy with the parts, thanks again!

I want to buy a new set of jets from 250 up to 330 for a stock setup. let me know.

Pretty sure the cages are Boyesens, and that they were ported when I bought the bike, I noticed a cracked petal, so I replaced them all.

Looking for a polished stator cover, either a stock one or an aftermarket setup, let me know what you got, and include shipping to L1N1B2 canada.

Are you looking for pods? I have a stock airbox with a K&N filter in it! $30 + the ship.

Not exactly the same, but I have a set of 23 x 11-10 kenda bear claw tires with only winter riding done on them if youre interested? $100 + the ride for the pair heres a photo of the pattern.................. http://s752.photobucket.com/albums/xx162/amidlifecrisis/Plastics/

Im working on it, oh and in case it matters, I also changed my reed petals out for Boyesens.

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OK, so I took the advice of a bunch of friends and members and switched back to the thumb throttle. I also installed a modquad billet intake for my stock 26mm carbs, and modified the airbox. I also switched to a streamline stainless clutch cable. I run a prodesign filter, and a proflow adaptor plate. After this I went for a ride, and the bike didnt seem to be running right. I know I will have to rejet etc.... but it wound up like it was redlining when I came to a stop, but the throttle didnt seem stuck there, it seemed to wind itself up, without me even hitting the gas? Then I shut it off, took a quick look in at the carb slides, which seemed to be seated right. I reattached my filter and started it up, it bogged out horribly and didnt want to really go anywhere, when I did get it home, it wouldnt idle right either obviously. Any thoughts?

Yeah, thanks for the clarification guys! Im talking if I have oil which blows backwards from the exhaust joint, and from the exhaust ports.. .....also when I put my foam filters on for the first time, excess oil (im talking a few drips over a week) dripped from the drain hole in the airbox and landed on the swinger. I have tried high heat silicone when reassembling, but it didnt stop the oil completely.

Everything Rajun said, and I mean everything!

Every time I get a little oil overflow, or drips from my filters on my painted surfaces, it takes forever to get them and keep them clean. How do you guys keep the undercarriage clean?

In case you do want to tackle it, remember that you can only replace your kill switch with a tether, and not your key. Im no wiring wizard either, I actually sent mine into a shop cause I was so fuckin frustrated, but one is an open loop electrical system, and the other is a closed loop system, I just cant remember which one was which. I know he crimped my 2 wires from where my key was together.

At first, I couldnt see the difference between a good job, and just a decent job, or a bad job. I sent my measurements that were necessary to one of the guys on this site, and he calculated a whole bunch of numbers that really made no sense to me at first. Now that I have been on here for a while, I get more and more of what he was talking about then. He told me that the pipes werent really a good match for the porting etc...( mind you, mine had the boost port done as well), and that the port job was more suited for a set of CPI's or something. The best advice he gave me though was, as unattractive as they may look, bolt them on, and see how they feel and perform, then decide on whether to pretty them up or not. Theyre not that bad, bad means seeing light thru the side of the cylinder, or an interior like a horse chestnut. By the way, these ones that I have arent pretty, but they frickin haul ass!