gotta_goatsfast

Awesome! First thing I would do is try another set of pipes. On the 421s the T5s seem to fall short compared to other pipes. Stick around and learn a lot.

Haha, from the guy who buys a seasoned drag motor knowing it could use new pistons and then posts pictures of pistons trying to claim you got a bad deal. I would think you'd learn from the first time buying used. If you're expecting new parts, go buy new parts.

You don't get it, do you? After the recent events here and your drama, someone would need to be REALLY desperate to participate in a sale with you. Why do you think their only other choice is to keep it? They could easily post up here and find another buyer soon enough. I know I won't take the chance of selling you used parts. Good luck in your search but it may be best to hit up other sites or purchase new.

Fag. Another thread that turns into 5 pages of nothing useful and the race never happens and if it did happen WHO CARES. Since you aren't confident in yourself (evidence because you are asking us to rub your nuts with confidence) I am not confident in you or your bike/ability. My guess is it will be a close race. (figured I'd skip all the nonsense and cut right into it!)

Matt (socal suspension) can really make your rear shock perform for a fraction of the cash you'd lay down for an Elka. He resprung my shock and worked the internals... it really does make a difference. Also, what type of riding do you do? You may benefit from a shorter swingarm (-1 or -1.5).

When purchasing a new machine, its always good practice to perform these tests anyway. A little poking around to become familiar with the machine and to know what you have (such as inspecting pistons, verify carb jets/settings, ignition timing, ect) A complete tune up will ease your mind that everything is fresh (and also allows you to become more familiar with the machine). Throw up some pictures and post leak down results!

Before you ride it or run it, do a leakdown test. Poor/no idle and melted parts lead me to check a lean condition first... a lean condition caused by an air leak. 460cc is kind of an odd number. Would you mind posting picture of the cylinder or any details about the engine? I only know of a twister monoblock that specs out 460cc. (just so you know what you got). I would also check compression and pull the head off to inspect the piston crown and domes for deto.

...because the piston moves 2mm farther (in the case of a 4mm stroked crankshaft) in either direction. If the piston rises 2mm higher than stock, what do you think will happen if we did not address this? Therefore, if you re-use the factory head what do you need to do to accomadate the extra "rise" of the piston? As for using spacer plates, I strongly advise against it. As said previously, it alters your port timings (relationship between ports and piston/crank position changes) and it adds one more gasket to the top end. Since this joins the top end to the case (it is stressed a lot holding the cylinders to the case on every powerstroke) you really want to make it as least complicated as possible. An added gasket provides a greater potential for a leak.... a leak that can add un-metered air into the cylinder causing a lean condition (can be fatal to your motor). First thing... know your budget. If you blow your budget on fancy parts and run out half way through, you'll end up with no motor for riding season. After you've established a budget, find out what you can do with it. Talk to our sponsors and see what they can do for you. If none of these sound appealing, wait til you have more in the bank. Lastly, plan your build for future improvements. Spending a lot of coin on a hotrods 54mm stroke crank and stock stroke cub cylinders are fine if this is your absolute final goal. But if you want to step up the power, you'll have to purchase ALL of these parts again. If you opt for a 58mm stroke (4mm stroker) and stock ported cylinders, you'll have a fun bike that is easy on your budget. When you have a surplus in your savings, pull the stock ported cylinders off and purchase a 421 cub or serval top end. Allowing you to keep some of the other parts. With planning for future increases in power, you will want to cut your trans and add the usual shifting mods while you've split the cases.

You can get into trouble for driving under the influence of alcohol.... you can end up in jail for possessing mary-ju-wana.... so I chose to eat bath salts instead.

Yes, everyone who smokes marijuana is OBVIOUSLY abiding by all state/federal laws.

I remember this time three tiny naked blondes broke into my garage and tried stealing my "hammer". I called the cops and two more tiny blonde cops came over. They got right to spanking the robbers. The theives let go of my hammer and began to fight back. Then the cavity search came. They left snail trails all over the quads and motorcycle. Eventually I shot one of the cops in the eye with my gun on accident, they handcuffed me and did all sorts of things. Just google "blonde cop" with the safe search off. (hey, its more proof than sick350 has!)

While you can try a single carb... experience with mild motors has led me to prefer two carburetors in every aspect. I feed my serval with two 35mm pwks and tuned properly and balanced it doesn't hiccup or stumble down low and pulls hard on top. If you're convinced this is too much carburetor, then my advice is to try two 28mm pwks. Snop has an old thread (it would take some digging) with dyno proof that two 28s work just as well as the single down low and pull away in the mid-top end.

T53 jet engine?

All good points. Stay away from cheap no-name aftermarket parts. Get tried and true stuff. Also, if you increase compression or plan on spinning it faster I would have the crankshaft trued and welded. It doesn't cost much and will make your stock crank plenty stout.

That is a LOT of information to cover. Why don't you tell us a little more about your banshee, your riding style, your 2 stroke experience, the type of riding you do and the terrain you do it on, and an aproximate budget. We'll be able to give you a better idea to take to one of our site sponsors who will further help you decide what you need and want. If you're looking for general terms, browse through the MX, Dune, and drag sections (don't use the search function, just scroll through the sub-forums) and click on what ever interests you.

Dish soap and water on the bead. A good air compressor with lots of available air along with a good flowing inflator (make sure to remove the valve stem) always does it for me.

Yea.... how can you confirm that your carburetors are lean at part throttle when the test you used to determine this diagnosis was done at full throttle? Anyway, you've figured out your problem (its running lean) so go fatten it up a bit.

Yes you do. You will need to replace the top and bottom case as a pair.

Can I get one in a cowboy hat? You know, I still gotta look cool and all.

Rid yourself of that stupid boost bottle and tune the carbs. In fact, just do a tune up in general. While its possible he might just be a better rider, it could be mechanical such as slipping clutch, air leak, incorrect jetting, fouled plugs, ect....

Pick up a repair manual and become familiar with your machine. This will allow you to give us more detailed information so we can diagnose your problem. To tell the doctor my dick itches does him no good. There could be hundreds of reasons why it itches.

How does it trail? Can I beat my friends 450r? Haha, just playing. Beautiful banshee by the way. How much power?

So..... A guy in town has a car and is cocky. This bothers you enough to purchase a car with sole intent to accelerate faster than his? With this outlook in life, the "urge" to make a big purchase like this just to beat someone is going to make for a shit life. Because, there are only two scenarios to unfold here.... 1) You lose, and it hurts you a lot. His bragging will only dig deeper and you'll spend MORE money on this car to shut him up. 2) You beat him, and then real cars start showing up to play. Cars with cocky drivers (that can be) and they will make you feel tiny. I'm all about building some mean cars, but with a "hobbyist" attitude, not a vengance. Because... there's always someone faster!

I could write pages to answer your question. Browse around the site and you'll find more combinations of motors than there are hairs on your nuts. In order to give you suggestions, tell me a rough budget for the motor, mechanical ability (this will determine if a professional builder is required to service your motor... eating into the budget) and your experience in ATVs and drag racing (which will tell how wild or smooth the motors powerband needs to be). Lastly, what is your budget for suspension?

There are radiator upgrades and of course a billet impeller. Purple Ice, Becool, water wetter, ect help some also. But as sheerider said, if you are truely overheating the problem may not be your cooling system.