gotta_goatsfast

Go fuck your mother and get the fuck out of here you piece of shit.

Nice. So what is the item of interest you plan on buying if you sell this motor?

Yeah, thats a lot of torque and stress on your drive parts. It would be in your best interest to pick up some spur gears.... and maybe try a different sprocket

what is this gulf wing you speak of?

I can't claim to know the threshold to which spur gears are required.... but I run them on my 421 serval to eliminate one more weak point. Picked mine up from FAST racing. In all honestly, the spur gears are probably all manufactured by the same company. As for gear ratios, the stock setup is stock (duh) and they also offer a 2.68:1 (?) ratio for guys needing to pull more gear. So, instead of running a huge front sprocket you can simply spin the clutch assembly faster and get away with normal sized sprockets. If you were running on pavement it would be a good idea (drag racing and such).

This is your first post. You do not have any buyer/seller feedback. There are no pictures. I'm stating a few concerns that a potential buyer will have. I suggest posting pictures as soon as you can. Maybe even direct us to another forum or place where a buyer can be reassured this transaction is legit. Don't take it personal, we've have plenty of shady people only sign up on BHQ to buy/sell parts and our regular members end up with the short end of the stick. With a purchase this big, it would be best to have a few pictures and maybe some 3rd party feedback. Sounds like a killer deal by the way.

Geezussss 180$ for a stock raptor exhaust? Dem bikes be expensive. Good luck with the sale but I'd probably find a raptor community as we here tend to be anti-4 stroke.

the 28mm pwks will compliment an mx or play port very well. Or, an even sweeter budget setup is to bore the carbs to 30mm and run a 4mm stroker crank with ported jugs. It'll still work well with the T5s and have enough ooomph to outrun all but the most built crazy 4 strokes.

No, not nessassary. The T5s work fine with stock ports (more people probably use T5s on stock ports than modified ones). But it'll take more than a stock cylinder (even full bolt on) to outrun a good 310r setup.

Pull the head and inspect for signs of deto.

Basically you add and remove material from the case to provide a better airflow into the transfers. Since the 421 transfers do differ slightly from the openings in the case, you can reshape the case so there is no lip where the case meets the cylinder. Its usually good for 1-3hp. If the other case was port matched to a cub (assuming same cylinder as yours) it should be close enough to run. A 421 cub is a 421 cub, the tolerances don't vary enough (unless someone specifically ported one or the other to alter the shapes) to make those cases useless. I'd say verify what cylinder was ran on those cases. If it was the same cylinder you run, go for it.

I refuse to type for the next 4 hours to answer your broad question when all the material is here. You found the MX forum, why not scan through the topics? Key items to check out are +2+1 a-arms, shock selection, shorter swingarm, brakes, tires, ect. DDQ has a lot of topics around the forum that have a good example of an MX setup. Although I ride MX tracks, I am more into poker runs and hair scrambles. Check out my sig and others to see what they run for their riding style. After your eyes are bloodshot and your butt is numb from staring at the computer, you'll likely have more specific questions like "are ressies a good investment for extended mx riding?... Yes they are" or "Is a roundhouse carrier really worth the extra money if I don't want to lengthen/shorten my swinger?... I think so because you get a reliable easy to use piece and the custom swinger will be stronger and lighter than factory"

Yet, we have 10 fingers to type but only 2 eyes to read? There's a flaw in the system! lol

The carbs won't make any more peak power than 28mm pwks jetted spot on. You're motor doesn't consume as much air as a larger one. Less consumption can be translated into less air flow. Carburetors work off the venturi effect. The venturi creates a low pressure across the main jet orfice (which is also partially plugged by the needle during part throttle riding). This slight vacuum draws fuel up through the orfice and atomizes with the oncoming air. The stronger the "signal" across the jet, the more fuel it draws and the better it atomizes. It also makes tuning a LOT easier. A weak signal across the jet makes tuning harder (especially at low and mid throttle position) and results in "lazy" or "mushy" power feel because of the poor tuning and fuel atomization. What you WILL feel with 28mm PWKs is the same top end with crisp throttle feedback and a more lively low and midrange. Again, running a piped banshee against a good running 310r (assuming the honda is a 2 stroke since you haven't told us R or X) is suicide.... unless you don't take it seriously and like to play around (which I advise because there's ALWAYS someone faster). Smaller carbs, true your crank, port your cylinders to work with the T5s, and get custom cut domes. You won't believe the difference. After that, you'll realize how bad the banshee's suspension is in stock form. Then its onto a-arms, shocks, ect....

That'll be a first for her. As your original rant states.... post pictures!

Geez man, these are simple parts! Check it out.... FAST C-clip

What if RRLs girl has a penis? And Zilla offered you 150$ if you agreed to deliver? Would you take it? Or would you counter-offer with 154.50$? (Personally, I'd counter with 200$ as I know he'd gladly pay it)

That's about as aggressive as I'd go on a 5500lb+ truck with almost everything else stock. Agreed above, a higher stall converter matched with your engines powercurve (greatly affected by cam selection) will yield best results. I like the idea of building a spare motor. Allows you time to do things right and not rushed. Also allows you to have a "plan B" if the higher output motor fails, you still have a known good one to put back in.

The O-rings keep the bearings from spinning.... but an o-ring won't stop a crankshaft from walking sideways. I've got a hotrods 58mm stroke 115 rod crank and it still has the groove on the PTO side bearing for the c-clip. I suggest a full c-clip over the half c-clip that yamaha uses... especially if you're running the stock helical primary gears.

..and other supporting mods? Transmission? Rear tire size? Rear gears?

What is it you plan on using your truck for? Is it towing a lot? A 2wd hotrod? Turning big tires and fighting headwind due to a lift?

Its just a retaining clip... a half clip actually. It guides the crank and keeps it from walking side to side. Call Jeff (for real this time) and ask him for a full c-clip for the crank. Actually, pick up two of them. One will fit the large bearing on the transmission that also uses a half c-clip. If you plan on reusing the stock crank, its a strong piece if you send it to Jeff so he can true it up and weld the crank pin. Its cheap insurance for a reliable build. Also pick up a pancake bearing for your clutch assembly (or you may weld your ball to your shaft ) and a steel bushing to replace the bronze one on the kicker idler gear (the bronze wears enough to cause the idler gear to cock sideways enough to catch the clutch gear causing mayhem). Lastly, you owe it to your shee to grab a billet water pump impeller. The stocker is plastic and is brittle. These are all cheap parts from FAST racing and it offers piece of mind. All I ask in return, is that you brief us on your converstion with Jeff!

Elkas for sure. The fox floats are better on machines with a lighter front suspension. IMO, they are not the ideal shock to run on something nose-heavy like the banshee.

No, I'm willing to bet its a 250r. The 310 top end is very popular for the 250r. And yes, a properly setup 310r is going to be fast. A stock shee will not keep up. Also, you're not doing yourself any favors by running such a large carburetor on such a small and mild motor. I suggest picking up a pair of 28mm keihins. Should you decide to run a dune/drag ported 4 mill stroker, then those carbs would work for you. I wonder how a banshee engine would fit in a 250r roller?

No man, you got your crank yanked by FAST