gotta_goatsfast

1. Welcome 2. We're all assholes here... too much 2 stroke oil in our blood 3. Its a GREAT opportunity to learn about mechanics. You'll learn about carburetors, how 2 stroke engines work, braking systems, suspension systems, drive systems, ect.... its a good experience. Be patient and learn.

That was when 4 strokes were actually reliable!

Automated answer: Average 5-7hp more with better torque curve and "under the pipe" performance.

JD is a good guy to work with.

So it was dannie (I've been misspelling it). That bastard. Matt, is there anyway to ban I.P. addresses so one can't create another account and log on?

You are WAY TOO RICH for airstrikers. I run 160 main, 45 pilot, CEL middle clip with my setup (in sig). Air strikers produce a stronger vacuum signal across the main jet circuit, so a smaller main is used. I would start with 150 main, 45 pilot, and CEL on middle clip and jet (probably down) from there.

You'll see way more gains from porting than you will from big carbs on a stock port cyl. If you are taking the top end apart for the next bore size, why not just send them out to be ported and bored?

Don't try and reinvent the (degree) wheel.

Yea, thats bullshit. In other posts these are his pipes but now he claims that they are a friends setup? Ban him! Although I bet this is Danny. His broken style of writing is very similar Danny. He'll just come back under a different name. Where's Matt!?!?! We gotta get our resident sherlock holmes to look into this. I know Matt will do everything from comparing I.P. addresses to going through his underwear drawer!

You run 68mm pistons in a 68mm bore. The 68x58 cubs and serval cylinders are designed for a 58mm stroke/115 rod crankshaft and a 68mm blaster piston. A 513 series wiseco piston is designed for a 110mm rod (stock rod 64mm through 66.5mm bore) and a 795 series wiseco piston is designed for a 115mm rod stock cyl. The length of the rod determines your piston. Keep in mind most 4mil cranks run a 115mm rod (provides a better rod angle) so you'd use a 795 series piston in whatever bore size you need on your stock cyl.

I suppose it depends on how deep the indent is and how close it is to the cylinder itself. A gasket may seal it if its small and toward the outside of the cylinder, but if its close to the combustion chamber it may leak pretty quick or if it is between the combustion chamber and coolant port, it may eat coolant...

I wouldn't bother with either the 4.8 or 5.3. Both are outdated designs.

A dune drag port is still going to be a high strung peaky motor. Since you aren't familiar with banshees, I'll break it down with cars... We shall use a camaro as example... A stock port stock cyl banshee is on par with a standard 3.8L V6 200hp camaro. Its power is fun for the inexperienced and those who were never exposed to anything faster. A "bolt on" banshee (pipes, open pods, ignition, cool head, ect...) could be your 5.7L LT1 275hp. Still reliable and easily managed, it pulls a lot harder than the V6 and is a blast to ride (unless you are used to a more powerful car) A "play" port stock stroke banshee (all bolt ons plus an all around type porting) is your 5.7L LS1 with intake, exhaust, and tune 350hp. Still retains driveability, a lot more responsive to the throttle and we start to flirt with traction issues with stock suspension/wheels when drag racing. Might not be the best motor for towing, but who pulls a trailer with a camaro/banshee? A 4 mil play-dune port stock cyl banshee is your stroked LS1 with a hot hydro cam, heads, and previous bolt ons 425hp. Now your starting to set yourself apart from most guys around you. You might come across someone else who is "fast" but usually its only at big events that attract hot cars (or atvs). A 421 serval is like your supercharged LS1 475hp. A real broad powerband with tons of usable power. Managable torque and an easy car to drive to the store but still a hot setup for light to light racing. While you won't win a drag race against a "drag built" car, you'll certainly spank a lot of folks.... and you can drive it every day. A 421 cheetah cub is like your solid cam'd huge headed big block 550hp. Its power is enough to pass even the supercharged LS1, but requires a 4000 rpm stall converter and deep rear gears to keep it in its powerband. Launching hard and spinning fast.... thats all this baby does. A 535 drag ported cheetah is your race fuel burning hot solid cam'd BBC 750hp. The car has the power of an inline 4 until about 6000rpm, then it builds tons of power that twists the frame and rips the front tires from the pavement.... hurry up and shift!!! Cuz the maximum rpm this engine handles comes on within seconds. Its a track car that doesn't see any other driving. And lastly, the extreme... a triple cylinder drag built banshee is like your drag only camaro. Its rare, and its got more power than most guys can handle. This camaro is powered by a 3000hp 572ci big block Ford Your pass success depends on how well you feather the throttle, because this Ford powered camaro will roll white smoke off of the drag slicks at 120mph if the throttle is opened all the way during your run.

You would need to sleeve your cylinder to run a piston that large. piston size will depend on your bore. This will range from 64mm to 66.50 (max bore on stock cyls). Common practice is to measure your current bore and go to the next standard size.

Struck a nerve there. They sure do believe they can run with 421s and such.

You will get tons of opinions. As for me? I won't accept an engine until it holds 6 psi for 10 minutes. Some guys say 1 psi per minute is acceptable. Its your machine, you be the judge.

A drag port will obviously give you the most top end. Its obvious you have not ridden any banshee with porting or you'd see past the "peak horsepower" craze. You need to be honest with yourself in what you REALLY do with your machine. If you trail ride and goof around with your friends in the occasional drag race you won't like the drag port. A true top end drag port literally has nothing for power until very high up in the rpm band... then it turns on like a light switch. Before you know it either you are on your ass (if you have a stock swinger) or you manage to hold the front down in which you shift right away because the powerband is narrow. The narrow powerband also makes launching the shee harder to inexperienced riders because clutch control will be key. Let the clutch out too fast and you either spin while the other guy leaves or you fall below the powerband and lug it. If you're really gun hoe to build a top end bike, go for it.... but it won't be worth a shit on the trails. Talk to a site sponsor as they will point you to the right work (they should know the most about their product anyway).

If you want to get a cheetah cub, the T5s and stock carbs are going to hold it back a bunch. If you trail it, you really won't like the powerband. I would run a 4 mil stock cyl with a dune type port (again, a drag port will not be much fun on a trail unless you're wide open constantly shifting up and down to keep it in its narrow powerband). Later on, you can swap out carbs and pipes to make your 4 mil stock cyl bike faster. After this, you'll have a good setup to swap over the cylinders for an aftermarket setup (say the 421 serval) since you'll already have the crank and the carbs/pipes will easily support the new cylinder. Like stated earlier though, I wouldn't waste money on a new cylinder just to hold back its potential with stock carbs and T5s.

worst case is you open it up and find bad news. Check over all the parts and then sell the pieces still within spec to recoup most (or all) of your $300 back. As long as its apart, I would have the crank sent out to be inspected and trued up and welded for a solid reliable budget bottom end.

Come on man, play along. I wanna see some boobies.

Pshhh, you're a friend of special? GTFO Unless you port your cylinders. Then you're cool enough to stay. Edit: pics of your girlfriend wins you points too.

I would pull it apart and inspect for damage anyway. These two stroke motors are childs play to assemble. Plus it gives us a good opportunity to pressure you into more go-fast parts. haha

First a DC conversion is in order. Even so, its a flood beam. Any machine faster than a garden tractor will overrun the beam (as in the distance required to come to a sudden stop exceeds the distance the light travels).

Its ironic (in my area atleast) most of the 3/4 and 1 ton diesel pickups end up as "hotrods" for the redneck crowd while Rangers and S10s are commonly seen hauling yard waste, toys, pop up campers, boats, ect... Its rather annoying because every stoplight is a race for them (which means blackout for us) and they clutter up the byron dragstrip with their buddies pulling ghey ass 13-14 seconds at best while the real 8-10 second cars have to wait in line for these fags to finish.

You don't need a half ton if the purpose of the vehicle is to pilot a semi and haul a few ATVs.