gotta_goatsfast

You could probably diesel that motor and lose the spark plugs and ignition system

The used dodge gassers are the worst for fuel mileage and the 5.4L F150s won't be far off from the chevrolet V8s either. Find an 09-10 F150 with the 5.4L and you'll atleast have a 6 speed auto to help motivate loads. But all the V8s from all the brands are going to be sub-20 mpg.

Ecoboost F150. Drive one before you form any opinions....

Every motor behaves differently. Smaller jets don't always mean less power. You could simply have a stronger signal across your venturi which is pulling its correct fuel ratio with that orfice. Its good practice to ensure everything on your machine is in good health (as you were concerned with weak ignition) but in the mean time ride it like a banshee.

You may be better off searching the "for sale" section for some used ported cylinders. You'll only be paying shipping one way and there will be no down time due to turn-around.

Not the best idea calling out everyone on the forum as "selfish mother bitch". Here's why you don't get much information.... As previously stated, those who have ported their own cylinders get lucky sometimes and the bike runs okay. The ones that do make more power usually do it at a cost of narrowing the powerband. The real port layouts and designs come from years of knowledge, experience, trial & error, cool mathematics, and lots of money tied up everywhere from tooling to failed experiments. These guys make a living off of port designs and I don't blame them for not sharing all their secrets around the internet for everyone to copy. These companies charge as little as $300 to port cylinders. Tried and true porting... the tooling alone I have purchased for cylinder head porting (4 stroke toys/automotive) costs more than that! It takes more than a dremel and a degree wheel to design a port worth competing. Some advice in shaping metal in general... You'll get a cleaner/smoother "less wavy" shape using a 1/4 die grinder with cartridge rolls than you will with a dremel. When I port iron heads I'll use a carbide burr with 8" shank but with aluminum I can get away with 60 grit rolls to shape the port and then use 120 grit to blend that shape. Some of the cartridge rolls I have are 1" long and about 1/4" in diameter which would be perfect for smaller spaces such as your transfers. In your other thread, the pictures you posted looked decent for a dremel tool. But I still see a lot of imperfections where the radius of metal can be a smoother transition. This is where the die grinder and cutting tools come into play. I would take a small stone cylinder and shape it to the contour I was trying to achieve. Then I would use that to rough in my new shape. I would then use 120 grit rolls to blend everything together. Also, the cuts look wavy and not uniform. It is probably from using a cutting tool that removes too much material and has too little surface area (such as a small carbide). An 80 grit tapered roll would be more managable and would allow you to create a clean straight cut. Good luck with your cylinders but take note that most "experienced" porters will share limited (or no) information.

I wouldn't get too hung up on displacement though. A guy I rode with pieced together an Ebay special 4mm kit and bored his 64.5mm cylinders all the way to the service limit!!! and just ran it as-is with no porting, stock carbs, and T5s. He thought it was bad ass because it was somewhere around 400cc. After a lot of smack talk, a cammed and piped 416ex ran side by side with him in a drag race! He sold it and bought a 450r. He hates banshees because even a "400" banshee couldn't beat a honda EX. Not relavant, but I completely spanked his 450 last year after I had gotten my 421 serval dialed in. haha, moral of the story is simple. The size of the engine has little to do with the final performance of said engine. Port work and parts combination are the foundation. Ability to tune, riding skill level, and suspension setup are all of equal value.

the 4mm crank does increase displacement, but it also provides a little "extra" leverage for the piston to drive the crank. It also benefits (when using a 115mm rod) a better rod angle. Some could also argue, the piston's "dwell" time with the 4mm extra stroke helps promote cylinder filling/evacuating. You won't see 410cc with a 58mm stroke (up from 54mm stock) with stock jugs. Depending on your bore, it will be around 385cc +/-15. The 410 motors I believe are using a 68mm bore cylinder in place of the 64mm stocker. Its not so much the size of the engine that matters, its the matching of parts and the talent behind the porting.

He must have a "baby port" then to get that upset. While the tame ports do have their market, its kind of funny to those with aftermarket cylinders and such to see a mild stock cyl port labelled as "hardcore"

How bout the "4 stroke power" port??? Thats where they JB weld half of your transfers closed and weld 1/2" of aluminum to each side of the exhaust port to narrow it up.

No they don't. Rode a friends TRX450 with one and thought it was a waste of money. It could hardly handle a piped 450 through a weekend event, I wouldn't want to know what a modified banshee would do to it.

Your best bet is to call Kevin himself and brainstorm. He'll tailor the cylinder specs to your riding style and suggest the parts combo to best work with it. If you ARE looking for a torquy motor, I would strongly suggest you save an extra paycheck and purchase a 4mm crank.

Foam filters will provide better protection than pleated.... but pleated filters will make a smidge more power.

My wife's virgin sister just turned 18. She's pretty cute (5' 8" 135lbs blonde and a swimmer) Maybe we can work something out?

What the fuck. That is extremely irritating. I take it there were no vehicle plates or identification to help the police? Should set up a sting operation with a crew of your own and bigger guns....

I found a few pants at chaparral racing in your size. Anyway, if heat is THAT important, try some exhaust wrap? It'll look like poopy but function over style.

I jet by feel, so when the temp changes and I notice it "not right" I'll make a quick change.

You'll like the serval. Later on, you can port it to any cub spec without having to purchase another cylinder.

I wouldn't. Post up in the wanted section or check out our site sponsors for an upgrade. I have a billet one from FASTracing and it holds up to a lot of abuse (probably not drop proof though)

Ahh, I see. The pictures make your banshee appear to have a very feminine "red". Lots of shiny though! Have you tried any different carb setups? When I still ran stock cyls I bounced from stock mikunis to a single 35mm pwk to 30mm OKO carbs. By far the best (throughout the powerband) was the small aftermarket twins. Seeing as your riding area is very wide open and the style of your bike indicates a lot of WOT runs moreso than MX jumping.... you might see a gain by picking up some 28mm PWKs over that single manifold/carb.

Its pink and white! Close the browser before the wife catches eye of those pictures.

Not quite... the negative feedback is due to the "high marks" Thack gives to himself when he has little experience with REAL banshee suspension setups designed to compliment the banshee. Some of the guys posting here run suspensions that are tried and proven.... and work better than this 450 parts job. Even if you moved the A arm and shock mounts to mimmick the 450 geometry, there is SO much more to it. Wheel placement (forward or back) angle of a arm mounts, how the weight sits, ect.... Sounds kind of like the kid who drives a dodge daytona with a turbo and thinks its competition against a corvette from stop light to stop light (even though he's never ridden in a corvette)

Thack, What is the chance you have ridden a properly setup banshee? This would include a -1 swingarm, long travel front suspension, and quality Elka or Axis shocks all around? For the time and money put into this, I encourage you to throw a leg over a properly setup banshee so that YOU can decide how well it compares.

Scan through the "for sale" thread to see what others have offered/sold for their stingers/mufflers and bumpers. This will give you a good starting point. Its best to post some sort of price as to not violate the forum rules. By the way, terminating a fan cord to another cord with open wire nuts is not safe. Trade for a male and female 120v 15a cord ends. lol

Nice, CPIs will do well on that motor. If you like the passion stock cyl you'll really love this beast.