gotta_goatsfast

Here's an update. I warmed the bike up and took it out. When revving it out, it will pull hard and not miss a beat until 8000rpm where it hits a wall and won't rev out anymore. The same run with the chokes pulled yeilds the same 8000rpm limit. I tried a 1-5 WOT run and it will do this on the top end of every gear, and I've coasted down a hill and then nailed it instantly and I hit that wall, so I'm pretty sure there's a good fuel supply as it shouldn't empty my bowls that quick. 160 main jet is the largest I have currently, and I thought this was on the large side. Should I order bigger? I could not find any leaks in my intake tract, but I'm still ordering new gaskets and installing them for added security. What rpm do T5s usually rev out to until they run out of steam? Thanks guys!

My bike usually stabilizes between 175-185. A little more when I'm heavy with the throttle in lower gears.

damn, that trick slipped my mind. Its pretty predictable, as it runs HARD til that 8000rpm mark then it gives me problems. I'll warm the bike up and try that. The plug has a milk chocolate brown color, I assume this is acceptable? Should I do a plug chop even though something is still wrong, or will it tell me anything. Oh, and would I use a 28mm PWK float height for reference or are the OKOs set differently?

Anyone have an idea where the float height should be set at on an OKO 30mm carburetor? The slides both open all the way and reach full open at the same time. I did check for air leaks, but it won't hurt to do it again. I assumed 160 would be on the rich side considering other rider's specs with similar mods, altitude, and weather. Maybe I should order some 162 and 165 jets? Or is the top end sputter because it is running rich?

I would like to add that I run 93 octane fuel blended with Klotz R50 at a ratio of 32:1. Starting below the powerband, if I hold the throttle wide open it runs well to the 8000rpm mark where it coughs, misses, and cuts out.

Guys, I'm in need of some help. I'll list what is currently done to the engine, my jetting, and the problem I'm having. The engine has, Toomey T5 pipes 30mm OKO carbs with pod filters Pro design head with 21cc domes V force 3 reed cages and timing was advanced 4 degrees The carbs currently have a 160 main, 52 pilot, and the factory needle with clip in middle. I don't have a sync tool, but both carb slides close and open at the same time to the eye. They click shut and open at the same time also. Idle enrichment screws both 1.5 turns out. My problem. I used to run a set of FMF gold series "fatty" pipes with powercore silencers and a trinity single carb intake with 33mm carb and airbox without lid. I recently pulled them off and went to Toomey T5 pipes/silencers and a pair of 30mm OKO carbs. With the old set up, the powerband started to pull about 6000rpm (trailtech tach) and would carry me to about 9000rpm, then it would run out of steam. Wanting to shift the main power up a little and increase my top end, I opted for my current set up. The powerband hits a lot harder, still around the 6000rpm range. Out of the powerband it actually rides really well. And when the tires don't spin, it pulls HARD from 6500-8000rpm. When the engine aproaches 7800-8200rpm it starts to miss and cut out. My old set up would have walked on this from 8000+rpm. Is this the nature of the T5s and OKO carbs? I was under the assumption that the T5s were a mid-top pipe and the FMFs where a midrange pipe, and that the dual carbs should provide more top end than a single. So, any input or help would be appreciated. Most of the ignition is new, and never had a problem before the parts swap. Is this in the jetting? I've heard of 30mm OKOs running the bowl dry, but they should provide more fuel than a single 33mm, and it cuts out with just a crack of the throttle into the top end or running through the gears. (more so with a greater engine load) Oh, and I should mention that I started with a 158 main, it seemed a little "zingy" and it cut out on top so I installed the 160s and had more "thump" to it but still cut out. It's raining now so I guess I'm done playing for today. Thanks in advance for the help!

Made a deal with Alf, everything's headed his way. Mat, we spoke earlier this week about your carb troubles. I think you should post in the jetting and exhaust forum what exactly is happening. There are a lot here with a wealth of knowledge that can help you tune your bike. And it'll be a lot cheaper than purchasing a single carb kit.

Hey guys, I'll do $170 shipped for everything, Mat. low, for just the powercore silencers (no sparkies) I'll ship them anywhere in the lower 48 states for $60? Alf, I'm really interested in a larger fuel tank. Check your message box. DDQ, if nothing happens by the end of the week I'll split the package up. Lastly, I live just outside of Albany, Wisconsin.

Hmmm, I honestly wouldn't know what the pieces were worth seperated. -$75 shipped for the carb and cable. -$100 shipped for the manifold, carb boot, 1 carb airbox adapter, proflow mount and K&N filter/prefilter. Hit me back on here or PM me. If interested I'll box them up and get them out. On a side note, any interest in the pipes for $125 shipped?

Or you'll wind up in a shady deal where someone has a bad box, tries your box, uses your box, and then tells you that your unit was bad. What makes you believe your CDI is bad? I hate dealing with electrical components because if you purchase a faulty unit (I claim victim to a DYNA ignition with one bad channel) there is usually no returns... So, if you've checked power feeding the CDI and are sure the flywheel magnets are sending a signal to the pick up, and that the coil/wire assembly is okay, then I suggest purchasing a new unit from a reputable place. Good luck!

I'd like to atleast keep the carb/manifold/boot assembly together as it'll be hard to sell just one 33mm carb by itself. We'll see, if I don't get any hits I'll think about splitting it up. EDIT: By the way, the 33mm and 35mm PWKs share the same throat diameter of 59mm (where the filter clamps on).

Here are some parts that I've taken off of my bike. The person I Purchased the bike from had set the machine up for trail/MX but I'm more into top end and acceleration. So, off come these parts. $200 includes, -Trinity single carb intake -Keihin 33mm carburetor and rubber boot -single carb airbox plate -Lightly used K&N filter with precharger -Pro flow airbox adapter for filter -Shipping to U.S. and paypal fees included with price $160 includes -FMF Fatty pipes, they do have a layer of rust but very few dings. Would make a good project to sand/paint. No thin spots in the metal though. -Powercore silencers, once again they are rusty but few dings. -Shipping to U.S. and paypal fees included with price In the rare chance that you have a large capacity gas tank in blue or natural I would be willing to do some trading!

Got the carbs! Thanks. What jets are installed in them now?

PM'd

What's in the gold series' design that leaves them lacking against other pipes?

The only time the bike is below 5000rpm is when we're stopped for a break or waiting for others to catch up. I purchased a pair of 30mm carbs from a fellow member here to replace a single 33mm PWK currently on the bike. I'm hoping this will give me more top-end also. Also, we ride a lot on private property where open fields are plentiful. I wouldn't mind sacrificing some power in the 4000-6000rpm range to gain in the 7000 and beyond. Maybe the R-2 pipes are just hype, but the advertising sounds like it fits what I want. I mean, I can't have a bike that fouls plugs if I cruise a mile or two at 4500rpm waiting for others to catch up, but I also want the advantage of a strong top end/overrev for when they DO catch up. Maybe I'm asking too much of the bike? I've considered building a ported +4mm setup this winter to bring back any low-mid grunt that I'll lose by switching back to dual carbs and mid-top pipes. But I'm not sure how much I'll have to sink into other stuff like a clutch to hold it and a swing arm to keep it down... But that's for another thread at a later date. Back to pipes!

The Fatty's are rusted but not dented. It's the "gold series", also. Port work is in the future, but I'll wait til riding season is over before I tear down the engine. I'm really considering the R-2 setup. The trails I ride are fast paced, so I see full throttle a LOT. DUNNY-thanks for the review. The bike sounds real good, I just hope it isn't too loud.

I'm interested in how it seals up between the expansion pipe and the stinger tube. Either way, Can't wait until payday! I'll be a guinea pig.

Just to clarify, what type of powerband are these pipes designed for? I'm looking for a style that is more aggressive in the top end than my current FMF fatties but more civil than the all out in frame pipes like shearer and cpi. And what is the average shipping cost? Thanks! Jimmy

I'm having a conflict of interest guys. I purchased the quad with some gofast parts installed, but am slowely removing them for better performing pieces. I ditched the 33mm single carb setup for some cheap OKO's (confident that I'll see more top-end) and now I'm not sure what pipe to run. Currently, the bike has FMF fatty series pipes and powercore silencers. The pipes are rusted and beat, so I'm considering a different exhaust. I ride trails fairly aggressively and like the wide open throttle thrill this bike gives me. I'm considering three pipes. FMF's SST series, Toomey T5s, or R-2 pipes from Borrink. Any experience with these vs. the fatty's? The bike is unported as of now but in the winter months ahead I'll be pulling it apart for some internal work. Thanks for the help guys! (all my buds dog me for my 2 stroke dinosaur so there's not much help in my area...)

PM'd about carbs

PM'd

Yea, I think I'll just spend the extra cash for some 28 PWKs then. Anyone know of a good place to purchase from?

I have scanned and searched through the forums for a long time, yet I'm still stuck. For starters, my quad has stock internals with mostly bolt on parts that include FMF fatties/powercores, V-force reeds, 4 degree ignition advance, pro-design head with 20cc domes, and a trinity single 33mm carb setup (came with the bike). The bike sees all types of riding but usually fast paced trails with occasional wide open races with friends. I have a gut feeling the intake is holding back my top end. So, could I gain any mid/top performance by swapping the 33mm to a 35mm carb? Or maybe I should just save for a little longer and purchase a pair of 28mm pwk carbs? If so, I'd need the throttle cable, manifold, and new filters. I would like some input, especially anyone who's gone from a single carb to dual carb or vise versa. And also where is a good reputable/fairly priced place to purchase a carb setup from? Thanks guys!