gotta_goatsfast

The hair still stands on my neck when I launch my 1000cc sportbike... can't imagine the rush of a dedicated drag bike.

If the motor runs go for it. Save your current bad motor and buy up good-but-used parts on the forums as they become available. Remember, the suspension on a banshee is turrrble. I'd seriously think about upgrading the breaks and shocks at the least... swing arm and a-arms too if you can.

whew, motor sounds rough. lol, its hard to tell you what you'll need until you pull it apart. Post some pics of the carnage! From there we can direct you to several options depending on budget. Remember there are plenty of honest guys here who sell quality used parts on the for sale section. Welcome to the site.

How to tell if you are a pussy? A ) You feel the need to tell everyone how much money you think you have (oblivious that there are others who make tons more) B ) You feel offended very easily. Words that may make others laugh in amusement make you cry and beat your boyfriend. C ) You have a 350cc stock cylinder bike and think its the fastest quad ever. (If you had all this money you'd probably have something to show for it other than a stock cyl bike) D ) You get butthurt when people spell your user name as "possom" If you answered yes, you may be a possom-er-pussy.

Okay, cuz I've had the pleasure to ride a friend's banshee with the athena kit. My opinion is that it had a narrow range of power with no motivation under the pipe (T5s) and while it was fun, in NO way does it compare to my 421 serval. My serval definately has more power down low, and it revs harder and higher than his athena kit. On top of that, the casting was rough and visually asymmetrical. While I don't doubt the kit was cheap to purchase, I will have to say that in my opinion you get what you pay for. If you're willing to spend the money on the athena kit, save one more paycheck and get a CP industries cylinder. If trail riding and all around power is what you desire, you really can't beat the torquey broad pull of 4mm stockers or 421 serval.

What else have you owned to compare these cylinders to? I ask, because they WILL rip hard for someone used to stock cylinder mild motor. But for just a tad more change you can get a serval cylinder that has the quality factor with a super broad powerband and tons more support. Let us know some more details like what rpm it comes on at, when it signs off, how it feels to comparable "well known" cylinders, ect....

ahahaha you sum-bich

Maybe he wants to show of his banshee with "flame" stickers?

I'd worry about suspension and brakes before diving into the motor then

???did I not aknowledge you before and offer advice??? I should have been more specific.... "smart ass punk" as mustang says!

I'm just a punk! ahahah what do I know?

Thats a better attitude. Since it is hard to search for media without a sense of direction... I'm going to offer some starter topics for you to indulge into. What is the benefit of ported cylinders? Where can I send my cylinders out to be ported? What is the proper/most reliable way to build a 58mm stroke banshee? Why should I have the cylinders ported FOR the extra stroke? What is my budget? What are other guy's testimonials regaurding similar modifications? What are some "over-rated" mods that I should avoid or wait on? These will get your thinker going. Also, check out some of our sponsor's list of parts such as FAST racing. These guys sell real parts that work, and you can see the parts the "pros" use. All we ask is that you put in some effort in your research. There's a ton of knowledge here on the finer points of engine building (such as using a full C clip on the PTO side of the crank. Or the steel sleeve to replace your brass sleeve on your kicker idler gear to prevent it from loosening and lodging between your helical gears). But its nice to know you can help yourself before we help you.

The bigger question is did you think before you made fun of someone for having a -2 swingarm? Did you think to research and learn about engine modifications before posting vague questions that get asked daily? Did you think about reading your post before submitting it? Here's the truth (if that last comment pissed you off this will make you irrate) if you're too lazy/stupid to search and research these modifications, and instead rely on others to spoonfeed you the simple info that is readily available EVERYWHERE, then you are too lazy/stupid to build your own equipment to a quality standard. Your "pistol" personality also shows lack of patience and calmness. You'll never build a quality engine (even a simple banshee engine) with this type of behavior.

"It is better to let people assume you are an idiot, than to open your mouth and remove any/all doubt"

Advanced 10 degrees? First advice, back that off to around 3-4 degrees. Second, you'll gain a LOT more spending your money to get the cylinders ported.

You'll have to count the cc's individually. If they all add up to 499 you're good! Really though, a 500cc bike is going to have a lot of power. If you're used to 450 sport bikes and it feels fast, its not a 500cc bike. If you're used to 450 bikes and this thing scared you, then its possible. I cannot tell you how to find exactly the displacement, I can provide hints that it is a modified cylinder. If the top end consists of a "monoblock" then it is definately aftermarket. If it is two individual cylinders squished close together its stock. With a 500cc displacement, it will have a longer-than-stock stroke. Pull a plug and insert a straight piece of clean solder (solder allows you to bend it under the gas tank and straighten it as it enters the cylinder. Make a "T" or some shape where you can't drop the solder in the cylinder by accident, and feel for the top of the piston. Turn the kickstart over slowely until the solder reaches its lowest point. Mark where it meets the cylinder head. Turn it over until it reaches the highest point. Mark again at the cylinder head. Remove solder and measure the distance of the marks. This will give you an estimate of stroke. Lastly, what are the pipes? What are other supporting mods? Cylinder compression? If you can post up some detailed pictures.

They work great for a while.... I have since removed my non-functioning gauges and now run simple mechanical temp gauge. Cheap, reliable, and a much safer/sooner indication of overheating than a blown engine.

Even the 4mm serval is too much for trails unless I'm riding with very experienced riders pushing the limits. Just cruising a trail with the wife I'll go through more fuel than my wife, my two friends, and their two girlfriends combined! haha... and if its real tight trails such as wooded sections they do have the advantage over me with their "controllable" power. But if the goal is to get from A to B quicker and if the trails are open enough to see anything over second gear I have the advantage.

I wasn't aware there was an asshole on carbs.

Except the heat will expand the ball joint thread. The swelling will make it even harder to loosen. You're on the right track though. Let it cool first. The expansion/retraction should loosen any rust. Use penetrating oil liberally and work it out.

Proof of what? That you make less than me and have a go-nowhere job? Quit swinging your average sized dick.

Make sure to clean the plastics (at least the area to be heated) first.

And anything sold by Minkia or Trinity!

SUSPENSION... don't forget the suspension.