gotta_goatsfast

So if there was no honda 450r in that year, why would you ASSume he was talking about honda? Don't go calling people out if you can't keep your shit straight. When he said 2011 450r special edition, I pretty much take that as a yfz450. Unless honda has a special edition, too?

I think the header pipes should be swept forward under the radiator and then up through the nose of the plastic vertical in front of the rad.... kinda like zoomies! You can even weld a spark plug bung in each of the pipes and run some hot plugs. Choke the motor and power the plugs and you got flames baby.

Tis true, my 421 banshee is faster (and handles 100 times better) than the overweight 750cc conversion I did. But, I ended up tig-welding 1.625" primary tubes into a 4-1 collector for the header. That peeked out the right side level with the bottom of the frame. From there 2.25" following the frame closely rising up in the back into the muffler.

Dude 35mm PWKs are HUGE for your setup. I wouldn't even know where to start. In order for it to run proper on the top end you'll be burbling and mushy in the low-midrange. I suggest running something smaller like 28 PWKs.

The opposite of when gears don't have enough fluid. They become TOO lubed up and slip past one another leaving you stranded!

But aluminum won't throw sparks on the pavement like these bad boys!

I have tacky assembly lube that I use to fill the o-ring groove before inserting the o-ring. Its pretty straight forward. A "how to" would consist of this... Some pipes don't let you get into your top end. If this is the case remove the gas tank. Drain coolant from engine. Remove coolant hoses and remove nuts. Slide off stock head. Assemble both halves of the cool head including o-rings and domes on a flat surface. Screw two old spark plugs in your domes loosely. Pick up cool head by spark plugs (so it stays assembled as a unit) and drop over studs. Torque to recommended specs and its a good idea to use never sieze on the studs. (do it in a few passes). Top off coolant and assemble any other pieces that you removed to access the head. Do a compression check. RIDE! *If you have a pro-design head you'll need to "double nut" the old studs to remove them and install longer pro-design specific studs.

Will you take a set of slotted brake lines?

Sorry man, that doesn't prove anything to me. 1. I know if we race in a straight line it would be REAL close. 2. It takes a lot more skill to come up on a blind water break, hit said water break wide open, and land it all while having a hairpin corner flying downhill than to race someone in a straight line shifting through gears. Besides, the lighter weight of my banshee coupled with more appropriate off road gear ratios I can assure you I will stay with you down a track. You have failed to impress us. Go back to trail riding fag.

+1 Bring your hotrod out and play with the big boys.

If you have any more pictures like this, please post em up. I'm going to use them for my OSHA class. Have to make the class fun somehow!

There's no one I ride with either that can beat my 421..... does that mean I'm fastest? Besides, I built my machine for mx type of riding. What tiny bit of top end you have over me I (and many more) would KILL you in any sort of MX track or hair scramble. With an engine that weighs twice as much and all these accessories like a winch, your shit weighs as much as a polaris 4X4. HAHAHA

Just because the tire sizes and sprocket ratios are different from the original motorcycle to the ATV doesn't mean his giant speedometer is off. Its still gotta be 70mph haha.

Thats too much pressure. I don't have enough valve spring, it'll blow my intake valves open on my banshee. If I use half the sticker to bring it down to 10psi I'd be able to make it work.

Haha, the 400 guys would laugh too. That thing wouldn't last in their territory (woods and mx). And who the fuck has giant gauges on their ATV? I'm too busy pushing the limits to drive around recording footage of some huge gauges. haha!!!!

I've got forged internals on my banshee. Got anything that will boost 12-15psi?

I used a 2 jaw puller. Driver on the axle and jaws on a healthy part of the hub. Use a little heat on the aluminum hub to expand it just a tad and it should come off. This is what I had to do when a hammer wouldn't cut it.

Sorry troll, it doesn't count until you do it. Anyway, this statement here proves your shit is worthless if you still have to upgrade. A "stage" turbo, sweet. Thats noob talk for "I don't know any details on the turbo". Streetbike quad killed by 565cc banshee And TWIN cylinder banshees can still outpace large turbocharged streetbike quads...

Haha, 100 hp.... not much for a Banshee. Plus your 600cc motor weighs twice as much. A properly built 421 cheetah makes this kind of power (one that can be built for WAY less than $14000. One can be built for $3,000).

Moose and Ricky one and the same?

The left one I believe is a MOOSE stator. I've got one exactly like it for a few years now. The Moose one has yellow insulation where all the Ricky's I've seen have white (unless Ricky used to use yellow?) Right one is stock.

yes

Hard to see any detail but the real dark porcelain insulator with a thick black ring indicates super rich. Your porcelain should not be colored much and there should be a 2mm chocolate or cardboard brown ring around the base. What is the current specs and jetting?

Best they can be is 14-2.... they play the Pack twice!

I wouldn't go changing mains until you know what you're dealing with. Buy a hand full of plugs and start with what you have. Then go up or down using your results.