Pasi S.

I used these for my first and the only porting I have done so far. I have alot of differend bits for those two and one of those big grinders (sorry my english) with bigger diamond bits. Worked OK for me.

Sorry OT, but I have been thinking this alot. CP cast vs. Twister. I live in Finland so no one over here can re-plate the Nicasil, but I can get a bore´n´hone from a local shop pretty fast and cheap. If I ruin my Nicasil, I need to ship them over to USA to have them fixed. That reason alone will yield to Twister, and we already have one 421CUB here and the second one is coming, BUT... Can someone tell me how much more money I need to use for a 4mill Twister vs 4mill CUB (or Serval)?? What is the largets bore for a Twister, before I need to hassle with my top case? Are the Twister pistons more expensive than a set of Wisecos for a CUB? Is there a huge difference in power between 421CUB and 421Twister right out of the box? ..and how about after porting? Right now I still feel better with an idea of CP cast, but Twister iron sleeves are just something that I can´t ignore. Thank you.

I just hope that, this is not going to ruin my chances to buy some used stuff from you guys. USPS has always worked 100% for me. USPS tracking number comes all the way to Finland. This is a small country so all international shippings will come in a one place, so that is why it will not show any further. Canada Post tracking stops to a border of Canada. I have never had any issues, so keep me out of this ban.

I have done some home made porting, because I live in Finland and just like you, far away from Professional builders. I need to ask you, how you can measure " .2 " degree? I have had some serious problems even read my exhaust durations, like is it 198 or 199 or even 200. ..just asking, and I want to learn more.

I have 23" fronts, and 22" rears. I use them in winter time. Works good for me.

When I had my stock swingarm, I could use 14-41 and 13-42 with a same chain. Now I have +6 stock style swingarm shop swingarm and I´m trying to save some money to get a roundhouse style.

I have made it couple of times, just for a plug chops. 17.5" rears. 18-41 gearing, pump gas. 12.8 and 92.6 My bike was running way rich and I hit 6th gear before 660ft (close to 620ft)

Call John, STU. http://67.199.65.66/sandtoyz/newlook/content_page.cfm?if_page_id=26 He should have 12" rears, Douglas.

Are you going to keep your 10mill Trex motor and making a new second motor? What kind of riding you do on streets?

Yeap, that´s what I was thinking. I will have those tires on monday, and start working with them as soon as I can. I need to find a good gearing for them. I was thinking 16-47, because I have fresh chain and sprockets for that. I also have good 15 front and 42 aluminium rear sprocket. What kind of gearing you guys use in climbings? I´m not sure, but I think my motor is somewhere between 58-62 horses. One funny thing is that there will be a brand new knobby tire set for a winner in every class... I´m sure that the one who will win it, owns a good set of tires already! LOL!

OK, thanks Tyler, I will keep the red´s. I will cut every other row to make them hook a little better, BUT how about buffing the sides of the tire?? One local shop can do it fast and with low price. ...just wondering.

Yes! I bought these tires from my friend. Now I have dirt tires. I will cut every other row. They are 20.5" and mounted on Douglas 10x10 Red labels. I´m thinking to swap those with my 10x10 Black labels.

"They" say it´s steep, but I don´t know. They only use timer in qualification runs, then it´s man vs. man. I think most of the bikes will be Cross, GNCC, SuperMoto and Ice-racing based 450 with bolt ons. In ATV1 (stock) class. ATV2 is for stockish 4x4 ATV/UTV. Open modified is "all go" but with Nerf-bars. I think I´m in a ATV1 stock class, because I have a stock frame and ss/sc motor.

OK thanks. Let´s see what happens. One more question. Are the nerf-bars required in some of your ATV Hillclimb competitions? This "organization" we have insist nerf-bars, but I can´t see why. Nothing more, thank you.

OK, thanks Loco. I really don´t have anything else to use. I have Razr 2 with ice studs, but that will put me in the "Open Modified"-class. I just found out that they will cut down the grass and the dirt/clay will show up during the day. How about these? These are my friends tires, and I think he will loan them for me. Sorry for the bad pic.

OK we are going to have a hill climb contest "King´s of The Hill". It´s 1/8 mile up hill with few jumps in it. I need your opinion what tires to use. I have 22" Pro Wedge 2´s or 20x11x10 V-paddle Sand Sharks. Here is a short video of the hill. "They" say it´s steep, but the camera can´t tell it. go to end from 4:15 -> -> I´m going to use 15-47 with ProWedge or 16-47 with SandSharks. Thank you. -Pasi S.

I´m going to keep my bike as a "Play bike" as long as we don´t have anything serious here. We have 500ft dirt, 1/8 up hill, and 1/8 on asphalt here... Going under 7 in a 1/8 would be cool do do.

Well I´m a noob also, and I am doing the same as you are, but my Banshee is not "all out" for Drag Race. I have stock frame, with +2+1 A-arms and +6 swingarm because I do everykind of riding with my bike. I have K&N air filters, 35 PWK´s (gas), Boyesen reeds, home made porting in my stock cylinders. Noss (M&M ATV) cool head with 20cc domes. T5´s and A&S Drag OOF pipes. Trued and welded stock crank, better clutch with HD springs and Billet basket (M&M ATV aka NoLimitsPowersports/ Andy). That´s for the motor and I think it´s in 58-68hp range, (T5 -A&S) , just a guess. I am hoping to do low 7 in a 1/8, but I´ll see about that in a week. Here is my Banshee. I´m doing some adjustments for asphalt and it is not ready yet. Going to build front struts and a wheeliebar. Rear tires are Golspeed Yellow labels, and they are 17.5" measured. Gearing is 18-42. I am thinking of getting AR 20x8x10 sd 23 and I can do 18-40 if needed. My front tires are 100/80-10 Scooter tires on 4x10 Douglas Blue labels. Hope this will help, but I know that some pro´s will chime in soon....

In my opinion it is not normal. I think you should post, what kind of motor you have, carb´s and other jets. All mod´s, pipes and elevation is also good info. I try to find me jettings with my needle in the middle in +15-+18*C . That is the temp I can have most of the time. That will give me one up or down, when temp will go down or up. Winter time I need to use a different richer needle. I´m not a pro with Banshees, but that works for me.

What kind of sand are you talking about? What kind of riding you do? ...and are you talking about Maxxis 4Snows? I have Razr2 and ProWedge2 tires and I would take ProWedges on sand over my razrs. JMO

Congrats for the baby! She looks happy!

Our 98 pump gas (RON) is 89.4 MON, so it´s close to 94 PON (USA), are you sure you want 21cc domes?

My Banshee drinks gas a lot. Last time was 66.6 liters at 100km´s, That´s 17.5 gal and 60 miles. This was measured at ice track, -6 to -10*C ( around 14*F) alot of WOT riding. 45 pilots, 1 turn, needle in the 3rd, 165 mains in 35.5 PWK´s. I will measure it again after the temp goes warmer.

with N8RE KTM needle (3rd) around 162-165 at +10 to -5*C , +20*C around 160 mains. CEL (4th) and 172 or 175 at +6*C and it was lean in the mid-range, no power. It´s not perfect and I need to fine adjust it, but hope this will help you a little.

I have a similar problems with my set up. I have "drag"-ported ss/sc motor with T5´s and 35 PWK carb´s. Summer time I use 42 pilots and it feels alot better than 45 pilot. I use 45 pilots at winter time and 48 is rich in my opinion. CEL is too lean for my motor. I need to go up to 5th position to get it even decent at warm summer day, but still it will need too big main jets to get enough fuel in mid-range to WOT. Right now I use N8RE needles. They are KTM factory needles what they use in 36PWK´s. That needle is 100% better with my motor than CEL. BUT I am looking something else between those two. If you can buy those, just try them out.