Pasi S.

I don´t know how much it would cost from Germany, but from Finland, I send 2kg (hair over 4 lbs) of chocolate to USA. It was 49€´s = 67.50 usds. That was a sertain sized box with max weight of 2 kg. The next larger box was up to 4kg and if I can remember right, it was 69€´s = about 95usd. That is the cheapest air mail and it takes 15 business days. If I´ll try to calculate how much it would cost me to get cylinders ported. 95+95 for shippings. (can´t fit 2 cylinders in a smaller box) 300-350 for porting 24% tax for a port job and shipping costs <-YES. That would be about 100usd And 4-7% for customs fees is about another 20 usds So total would be close to 635 dollars, +/- how much was the actual cost for porting.

Robert. You have asked help, tips and pic´s for your DIY porting. Almost ALL my knowledge is coming from a few(2) people, who are members here and another sites. That´s why I´m not a "porter/builder". I started reading and finding info from a net. Then started to figuring out how the shit really works. Then when I found a "problem" I asked a question "WHY", not "HOW" Now I would like to ask you: What you already know about porting? The people who can help you needs to know first, where you think you have a problem. I know you can do it, if you are not in a hurry. I spend more than 40 hours for my "Round II". Just because I did it carefully with cheap ass tools. I know that professional porter/builder with good tools can make same/better job in about 2-3 hours. I did a port job for free to DMX(user), he is my friend. I lost my job, so I needed something to keep my head together. The porting in my personal cylinders and DMX(user) cylinders are wayyy different. I learned ALOT from my own mistakes, and made them better in his cylinders. He has a port job that is suited better for mid-range pipes (Toomey T5) and I think they are good. I´m still waiting for a dyno sheet. I think you should take your cylinders off and start a NEW thread about your "first DIY port job". Go slowely and post a ton of good pic´s. Make questions and ignore the people who do nothing but talk shit. I´m pretty sure, that people will answer your questions and will give you a "warnings" if they see that you´re going wrong direction. I can also give you a list "what not to do" LOL! Hope this helps. -Pasi S.

Glenyboy that's Pirkka beer. Robert. If you feel that you can port your cylinders, just do it. I know what you mean, when you need to calculate shippings, porting and taxes with customs fees.

Sorry my eglish. With 10k you can get alot of good things, and you can be fast IMO. But winning 1/4 on asphalt and not a full drag bike is a hard mix. My question to OP is, where else you want to ride with your banshee? How fast(et) you think you need to be on 1/4?

Check intake boots. I had a small cut and it did the same.

LOL -> Deadbeat!! I´m not a "porter".

I think I can help you. I live in Finland.

A++. I live over seas and it toked few beers to call him. Very helpfull guy and easy english to understand.

How much money you can burn at once?

Ok, thanks for the info. I´m just looking something to compare. My 60´s are 1.7-2.0 using my left hand . 16-42 for 1/8 and I think I should try 17-42 for 1/4 next time.

Congrats to you STY, sorry I forgot that! I think that´s not bad time for un-ported cyls. May I ask what gearing you used for 1/4? I assume that those are 20x8-10 AR sd23´s. And if you used manual clutch and stock tranny, what was the 60´?

You told in other post that not much done to this Banshee. Can you say something about the motor? I can see filters, an aftermarket head and pipes. + tires/wheels and front struts. Do you know what kind of 1/8 time this can do? I´m asking so I can compare it to my own 350 stock frame pump gas Banshee. Thanks!

You are doing good. My amateur advice is, that you can always take them off and port more. I´m in round 3 with my cylinders. If I can remember right, the stock bridge is 11mm wide. In my cylinders it´s now 6mm and knife edge. For my friend I left it at 9mm and more rounded.

ok, I read your other posts about this. I think it would be good idea to stop, raise your hands and say " I need to figure out what we have here." You are not sure if you have a ss or a stroker crank. You are not sure if you have long rods or short rods. You don´t know if you have a ss or 4mm cylinders. What you know is, that you have a stock head cut for a 4mm longer stroke. Using a spacer plate, 2 gaskets and a stock cut head, will really make your friends Banshee a sleeper. Even more if the cylinders are for a 4mm. A good way to make it sleep really good is, if you have a short rods and you put long rod pistons in. Best idea is to listen these guys here (not me), they know what they are saying.

I´m not sure about if this works, but I would measure from the deck to a bottom of a exhaust port and maybe few other ports and see if it´s close to 54mm. In my opinion that would be a stock stroke. If it´s close to 58mm, I would assume it´s a 4mm. Also you can see port layouts from Calvins site to compare your measurments.

My friend had Toomey T6 pipes with his 421CUB before he got CPI´s. I would say, get some inframe top end pipes and save yourself from annoying issues.

Get those 20x8-10 AR sd23´s first, then look your clutch tuning again.

What rear tires (size) ?

My motor makes 66,4 (ss/sc,n/a,93pg) with dremel porting. You have better pipes and pro made port. Should be closer or over 70.

Stock lightened frame, drag arms (maybe single A-arms), spindle wheels, +8 or +10 swing arm, strut bars front and back. Drag axle, 20x8-10 AR gt sd 23 rear tires with blue labels is a good starting point. Wheelie bar is a great plus. With that and a 4mill stock cyls running alky, 1-4m5m6 override and a lock-up clutch will get you close to 7 BUT remember, I´m just a newbie, not 100% sure.

Hpemk, you have alot of good RD350ypvs tuners near you(in england). "They" will know who can weld your crank and mod your tranny, if you want to do it "locally". What fuel you use?

I'm not going to say that +7 is safe, but it's ok if you don't have issues. I went up to 8.5 with my set up, using T5's and 20cc domes, sea level, 93 pump gas. Then went back to 7.5 without any reason. I made some azzdyno testing and my motor felt better with 7.5 than 5. So if you dont have issues, keep it up, or go back 0.5 or 1. IMO, your lucky to have that kind of motor. Now you can find a happy medium between a good lower end torque and topend pull.

After a short walk with a dog + few more beers and a tobacco, I think I figured out, why not CrMo axle. Alum is light and rigid. If it bends it will break or will keep the new "form". CrMo can twist, but still made it back to Basic form, but twisting is not wanted when under a load. (sorry bad english)

Zilla, I was just pondering. So there is 35 and 40mm axles. JJ&A drag and hillshooter axles are drilled with ...what was it..19mm hole?? So you can´t have 40mm CrMo bar and drill the fuck out of it? How many have "gun drilled" front spindles?

Just thinking... where is the point, where the "looks" is more important than weight? (sorry bad english) I mean, I have seen pic´s about bikes that have maybe TI frames, but still "badass " looking front spindle mount-, and rear wheels.... and nice looking hoods with paint. How many have "machined" (CNC) the alum drag tank after it´s done? The soda can can hold the liquid and it´s thin as nothing. I´m not saying no one has done it, but never heard of. All "newbies" first say "why not aluminium?"... The people who know better says, that you need so much more aluminium to get same strenght(?) as CrMo TI ... , and you can build much lighter with CrMo. So my question is, why the best drag axles are made from aluminium, not from CrMo? ...and wheels for same reason. ( I know you can have Ti this or CF that custom made) (I´m just pondering with a lot of beer in my system )