Pasi S.

yea

My story is too long, and almost impossible to translate. But if I try to make it shorter... Compression was low and I needed a fresh top end. My friend told me to do a home made clean up porting. First I was going to send my cylinders to a site sponsor and I asked some things from Jeff (over seas shit ...). But after some calculations I decided to try it with my left hand and my cheap ass chinese made copy of Dremel.. (heh) After 2 long years and around 140 porting hours later I had a set of ported cylinders. ... And I did them myself... I have collected serious amount of information from some good "backyard" builders. Ans as you can understand it will take some time to translate them and understand what someone is trying to say. Like I said above, now I´m doing to a set for my friend, and I will avoid those mistakes, what I did with my own set of cylinders. My personal porting is more for Drag Racing, but a set of rusty T5´s and 93 pumppy-g´ass will take most of the excitement away. Now I´m trying to do a midrange porting. I am far far away from a decent backyard builder/porter so I can´t give any pointers to anyone. All I can say is, that do not try to proof anyone that you can shovel all that aluminum away. If the stock size intake ports can flow good for around 50 horses, you don´t need intake windows that looks like a fist fucked anus. That´s about it...

I did my cylinders by my self with alot of help, reading and learning. They work good enough for me. Little too much topend, but helped me to beat my friend. Now I´m doing a set of stock cylinders for my friend just to have something to do. It´s hard to find a professional porters here where I live. I found two of them. The other was 600€ for about 60 horses and the other one was even more expensive. That´s why I DIMS. I would like to see more DIY porting, but Like Camatv said, alot of shit will be right there.

Measure from the deck to a roof of exhaust port. If it is rised alot and those transfers are stock duration, it might have good pull up top, but not much bottom end power.

it´s a good mod, just do it.

If your head is still off, just measure the stroke. You allready know it´s stock bore and the piston for long rod.

I´m no pro, but can that be a 7mill longrod? He is saying 4 mm over the cylinder! If I can remember right the 4mill would be close to 1.7mm over the deck. (not saying, just thinking)

I have one set of stock cylinders out of -87 J-arm bike. And Exhaust port is 30mm from the deck. LOL. Everytime someone asks a stock port durations, he will get 10 different munbers.

I drain the tank and carbs, clean the filters and put them back on without oil. I also add more pressure to my tires. Last time my bike was sitting 6 months out side... under a "ATV cover". There was 1ft hard snow and ice on top of it. LOL! With fresh gas it started after fourth kick.

What kind of times you can do on 1/8?

Thank you for a tip. I'm 100% sure that that's the problem.

OK, I may have some issues with my front end, but then again.. I´m a noob. LOL! .. and I need to look it again to find out where the problem is. I have problems only, when my bike is lowered and strutted and I´m running on asphalt. My front strut-bars are 12" long. If my rear wheels are flipped over to give me a narrower rear end, I can´t run even 300ft on asphalt... even if my throttle is pinned. If I turn my rear wheels over for wider rear, I can do 1/4 (92.5mhp) no problem, but when I let off the throttle it´ll give me the hell. If my bike has front shocks, I don´t have any problems on any surface, even if my rear is narrow. Sorry my Fenglish.

I am not a pro, and my translation can be this and that, but... Narrow rear will give you a better traction, and you don´t want your front tires to be any wider than your rears. If your front is wider, your bike will rush right and left recklessly when you let of the throttle. Especially when the bike is lowered and strutted. I have had some close calls when I did that with my +2+1 A-arms and stock rear axle. (660 on asphalt) I couldn´t run even 300ft´s on asphalt when my rear wheels was flipped over. Didn´t have so much issues doing this on dirt and I had my suspension on it. Hope this helps.

Remember to warm up the motor real well with old plugs before plug chop run.

What kind of parts you are looking for? The UK is full of RD350 riders and tuners, so I think it is not so horrible to get basic parts for the motor. And in my opinion it is very easy to get parts from the USA.

RD350LC = "Elsie" is a liquid cooled but no YPVS. RD350 LCII 31K and up is RZ350 (USA) RD350 (Europe) with YPVS. I had 1983 RD350 YPVS 31K but lost it last year.... damn I want it back.

Yeap!

...damn! volfan.

I´m going to test my ProWedges on snow. I normally use my RazrII with ice studs, but they didn´t do good in a deep snow.

..hmmm, so I must have 66hp or more ´cause I can beat 66hp Raptor.

No, there´s no theorys and yes, this is a free world. I did not buy that 47 for any reason, I got it for a half price. All my sprockets are allmost new, and that chain has less than 10 hours on it. I don´t know why, but in steep and bumpy hills it sometimes jumps over with 13 and 14. Yeap, it can be a little loose chain. And remember, I did not say that 16-47 is good for anything. The OP asked so I told how I feel.

I have now 16-47 and it is OK. It is same as stock. I use that for 20" cut Dirt, 20" paddles, and 22" ProWedge II tires. Only one positive thing with those big gears are (IMO), that the chain will not "jump over" in front, like it sometimes have made with 13 or 14 front sprocket.

I have been sick for a last few days. I will take some pic´s when those are done. I think they will do good.

A lot of smoke, sweat and time, but can´t wait to get them ready and do some test. I don´t know how to translate these so here are the pic´s (from Google, but they are the same) For buffing. (sorry for a big pic) Cutting the knobbys off. Different brand but looks the same I had a longer blade. One of like this.

Takes some time without good tools, but I have all the time...