Pasi S.

any updates?? I need to know... -Pasi S.

I think now you can understand why I´m after a set of used OOF pipes and a low price. The shipping is not a huge problem to me, it´s the fucking EU. I have to pay taxes and custom fees also from the shipping price and that sucks ass badly!!! That price for the pipes + shipping+ everything else I have to pay, is going to be close to a set of BRAND NEW OOF Shearers. Last package from Andy was big and long as hell, also it was heavy. There was a +6 swinger inside + some other parts. Shipping was 120 via USPS. ...just saying. -Pasi S.

I have bought every single part for my Banshee from the USA. Zero problems for any seller. My first set of pipes was T5´s and the shipping was 120 via FedEX, second was CPI´s with some other parts via USPS and it was 105. I just ordered some parts and wheels and tires from Andy. The shipping price will be HUGE because of the size and weight of the box. ...hehee life is! OK, let´s deal with the pipes. Those pipes will be the first OOF set here in FInland. -Pasi S.

OK, Can you post bigger and better pic´s about those pipes (here and there) . I just want to see how they are now, and after that the angry USPS worker has kick them over the States and played enough "soft box" -ball with them. HAHAAA! let me know. -Pasi S.

There is nothing to worry about sending things over seas. Let the USPS handle that part of the job. -Pasi S.

I can make better offer, that 130 was a joke. I just don´t want to pay as much as "good" looking ones. I have seen un-silenced OOF drag pipes anywhere between 140 and 275 and allmost new ones between 250 and 325. My new offer is 175 + shipping. Just PM me and let me know if there is a better offer PM´d to you, and I will see what I can do. Just let you know that I don´t really need any drag pipes, but it´s awesome to have a set! LOL! -Pasi S.

130 united state dollars + shipping. (I live in Finland) -Pasi S.

Can I see some pic´s about the Black ones? What is your price without the shipping? Thank you. -Pasi S.

I don´t remember the brand, but def not a Cometic. They came with the top end-kit. the base gasket was 1mm thick. Now I have 0.5mm Cometic steel gaskets. -Pasi S.

I don´t know much about what you are asking, but have you measured your squish with your new topend? I did my topend and it was 115 and 110psi before, and after a new topend it was 135 in both cyls. I was expecting something closer to 155 to 160 because my did the head milling at the same time. The problem was a little too thick base gasket and my squish was 1.65mm! -Pasi S.

I think these would look killer with your Banshee. http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQQbblO7YhxqpsEZxfL8ynZOjYY-MKL09ZnhJPtau2L3NUImyng -Pasi S.

Keihin 33 PWK´s and 230 mains? Are you 100% sure that you are not using Mikuni main jets? ...just asking. -Pasi S.

What are the carb settings? Pilots, mains and air-screw adjustment? -Pasi S.

x2 what sonofsand said. I think you are quite rich. I don´t know your porting, but I´m at sea level and I also have very similar mod´s like yours. In the summer time I usually need 150 to 155 mains and 40 to 45 pilots. with 45 pilots I can go over winter. Also in the hottest summer days those 150 mains seems to be a tad on the rich side, but I don´t have any smaller main jets. 160 main was good around -4*C to -6*C Also my friends 421 CUB with CPI pipes and race gas was a tad rich with 162 mains on the dyno(he didn´t have any smaller to test). Temp was +12*C. Now it´s closer to 15-17*C and he need go under 160...maybe 158. The largest mains I have used was 175 and that was the coldest I have ever rode with my Banshee, It was -24*C. -Pasi S.

I´m still quite sure that your emgine is running rich. Test the Dyna Jet-kit and see how it´s going to be. I just hope that you will solve it out. I know those fealings having the jetting a way off. Read this topic.. You can find there a similar set ups like yours, to get something to test. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 Most of the people running over 300 mains seems to have a port job done. -Pasi S.

I don´t want to mess your head or anything but, if you are going to go with Dyna Jet-jet kit, most of us can´t really help you easily any more because Dyna´s jet numbers are not the same as stock Mikunis. You are just getting a different set of pilot jets and different needle and a buch of main jets. You can be in a same situation where you are at this moment, but with the different jets. When you are telling us that your whole shit is fucked up. I think the people over here who are trying to help you, need to know what was the jetting/adjustments and the symptoms. IMO Your modifications are not so big that you can´t solve your problems in a traditional way. I think that your engine is running too rich. Can you ride with your Banshee in a jogging speed (1.st gear) and pull the clutch in and it will stay alive with a good idling? ...or will it die? ...or is the idling RPMs higher than normal and comes down slowly? In the needle you usually don´t need to use the 1.st and the 5.th position at all. If that is the must thing to do to get it run right, your needle is not what you need to use. IMHO, your stock port cylinders and your pipes will give you a quite broad and forgiving powerband. If your main jets are "X" for the BEST power, you can´t notice anything big in your power delivery if you change your main jets 2 or 3 size bigger. This will give you -with those 2nd, 3th, and 4th clip in the needle - enough room to make it right. ( I´m not telling you , just saying) If I were you, I would test 27.5 pilot 1.5, needle in 3rd. and 270 mains. Do that "pilot/air-screw-test" like I told you and IF you need to adjust it up to 2.5 or more, go back to 25 pilot. Then make a plug chop-test to se how is your main jets. They can´t be far off. After that ride it and see how is the mid-range. If there is powerless hesitation, give it a little more gas from going up from the needle. If it´s too much, go back, and put one size bigger main, and try it again. Going one up in a main won´t take too much out of your topend power, but it might be just enough to save your mid-range. Good luck! ..and sorry my bad english. -Pasi S.

If you have V-Force II reeds, go with them and get new pedals if needed. Going from VF2 to VF3 isn´t worth the money. In my opinion lightned flywheel is not needed. You may need some new gaskets also between reed cages and cyl´s. Is the clutch OK? How about TORS elim. kit? Sprockets and chain? .... I know that these has nothing to do with the top end rebuild - just asking. -Pasi S.

Yeap! Like I told you this works for me. The biggest problem is - I think - I speak Finish and think in Finish, then I translate it in my mind to English. If I could speak English better, I think I could spare a few hundred words out of that. LOL! In my motor I couldn´t ask from anyone any starting point, because my porting is made by my own hands, so no one knows what kind of porting it is. I did all my mods at once, from the bone stock motor to what I have now. First I find out my mains, then clear out my mid-range from needles, and after that I adjust my pilot circuit. That´s it. If I can do good in mid to top and have a useless low-end or have a good low to mid and have a powerless top-end, I assume my needles are wrong kind. I hope that you will figure yours out and have a good runing bike! -Pasi S.

I don´t know how much power you have victork, but for me this story is good reading. One of my friend from work is a good MX rider, and he has a Honda CRF 250 bike. He wants to race against me. Well, my motor is still apart, but I can´t wait to race him.... -Pasi S.

(One thing to remember is that I´m not an expert.) I have been in a same kind of situation -> trying this and that and nothing works. Here is how I do it now, and it works for me. If everything else is checked and OK (also new plugs and clean filters...) Here is what I do: First I put whatever pilot in there (what people usually use in the same carb´s. 25 to 30 in stockers or 40 to 55 in PWK´s and so on...) and adjust my air-screw 3 turns out. Then I set my needles up to 5.th (rich) Then I put a main jets in that I know they will be 100% sure rich (in your case 300+, in my case I used 170) Then I start the bike and warm it up. After that I will try to find out ONLY is the MAIN jet too fat and how much. If it fail the plugs, I go down at least 3 size and of course put in new plugs and try it again. If it will pull up top, but it will take much time and there is huge smoke coming -> I go down 2 size... When the power (WOT) feels good , I try out 1 size smaller main untill I don´t feel any difference and go back one size richer. Then I will try to find out the mid-range... I drop the needles one notch at the time untill the mid-range is clear. After that I check the reaction between 1/2 and WOT, hitting it hard. If it will hesitate I go up one size in mains. After I have figured out the mid-range and top end, I start to adjust the air screw "15 minutes" at the time, to get my low end figured out. If the best settings, like clear idling and so on is near 3 turns out, I go down one size in pilots. If you have to go as down as 1 turn and it doesn´t feel good, you should go up one size in pilots. My test for the good pilot and air-screw settings is... I ride on 1.st gear with less than 1/8 on throttle on the flat surface (walking/joging speed). If it will start to split and suffer, it´s drowning on gas and I go leaner with the air-screw, one other thing that says it is a little rich is when I pull my clutch in and it just dies. I keep this going untill it can go at least 150 to 200 ft´s without sliting and when I pull my clutch in it will stay running with a good idling. If the idling is rying to stay high and comes down slowly it is a tad on a lean side. After all of this I´ll check my air-screw settings. If I´m closer to 0.75 to 1 I´ll go up one size in pilot jet. If I´m closer to 2 or over, I will go 1 size smaller pilot. If I have to do it, I´ll start my test all over again untill I´m happy. After you are happy with it, you can do a plug test and see how it looks. If your plugs look like they are rich and you want to go leaner but you can´t because your transition from the half throttle to WOT will hesitate or it will fall on his face and die, your problem is the needles. Sorry my bad english! If you can´t understand what I´m trying to say, just ignore my post. LOL! ...and like I have said above, this work for me, and this is the only way how I can jet and adjust my carb´s. Good luck to you. -Pasi S. If you can´t get it right from down low to up top, your biggest problem can be your needles. oh, one other thing... I try to adjust my carb´s when it´s 15 degree in celsius, air-screw close to 1.5 turns out and the needle in the 3.rd . This way I can ride it with a minimal adjusting during my riding season temps 5 to 25*C. Under and above I have to adjust the needle and maybe change my pilot. Most of these ideas are not mine. Some of them are from my good friend from here, and some of them are from my good local friend who is a 2-stroke sled racer.

What about the Blaster axle?? ..just wondering -Pasi S.

They are good looking and great sounding pipe, they will give you good low-mid range power with un-ported stock cylinders. I don´t know about the power... I would say 42 +/-2 ??? -Pasi S.

Hope that this will help you. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Zpvp6nQo0H0/SZ5rDIZfUAI/AAAAAAAAAW8/eTCB7OVrb2A/s1600-h/Yamaha+reed+cage+dimensions.JPG -Pasi S.

what about those guys who rides with alky all the time?? In my opinion 5,10 or 15% of ethanol in your gas doesn´t do any harm to your motor. In my opinion there is enough gas to protect your sensitive parts. In most of the cases you can adjust your carb´s, timing and compression to whatever gas(w/ethanol) you like. You can´t, or it´s allmost impossible to do these things in your regular car. In my opinion that is the biggest reason why they will run like shit. What I have heard about the E85 is, that if you want to run it, you´d be better with alll alky, and use alky converted carb´s for that. "They" say that there should be 85% ethanol with 15%gas, BUT I have read it somewhere here that it can be also 70%ethanol with 30% gas in winter times or so. That makes your Banshee hard to tune if you are not 100% sure what kind of fuel mix you have.. sorry, hard to explain. Remember, that I´m not a pro. I use E5 98 here. (94 of yours) -Pasi S.