350skabarat

Your case might have been put together with retaining compound on the bearing seats. You will struggle like a bitch if that's the case. Try heating up the bearing area's abit and then have a wack at it. Retaining compound is no joke, I've had my fair share of retaining compound on crank bearings, broke my bearing puller, ended up welding rods on the bearings. Big mess!

A lightened flywheel only effects inertia when off the throttle. Like for instants if you changing gears in tight trails at low revs a light flywheel will tend to stall the motor, if however your revs are high it won't be a problem. A lighter flywheel will not give you any gains whatsoever. Your motor will rev up faster in neutral and that's it. When the bike is in gear and power is going to the wheels the flywheel weight will not effect the power at all. If you have a motor that can pickup revs in gear as fast as in neutral then that's a different story but that's impossible. A motor will always rev up faster under no load. The bikes weight and bearing friction and all of that plays much more of a role than a lighter flywheel. I'd say go ahead and lighten your flywheel as much as you safely can. You won't gain anything though. You would just have a faster reving motor, in neutral of course which is pretty useless. But taking weight off is always a good thing. Too bad the flywheel is not the bottle neck

Thanx man. Ya the mirror shines is a waist of time. I was bord though and had nothing to do.

If I remember correctly its a jet that works with the choke circuit. It should always bee on the left carb

Some more polished exhaust, never again! haha Who ever sais you cant port a motor with a dremel can suck my knob! it is more dificult but it can be done

Well i got my motor assembled this morning to test this port job of myn. And i am honestly happy with my gains. I did expect more power though. If i ride slow and pin it in first the nose picks up, changing to second it picks up and changing to third it just just picks up. this is on tar. the powerband is still as wide as stock, the power comes on early, probably the same as stock. the low down bog is much much better and the bike is much more responsive. I would say i have gained everywhere, wouldnt say tons though. my main concern was that i never wanted a peaky motor so im happy. here are some pics of all my work.

You'll need an impact wrench to get the primary drive gear nut off.

Kewl I understand now what you mean. So my dremel is too big. It is a tight squeez I must say. Do you think if I modify the 90piece to be way smaller I will be better off? Cause I can't affort such expensive tools.

Fucken finally! Thank heavens!

Not trying to reinvent it. Blair and a few others recommend using a program to calculate timing. So I did it. I used a degree wheel as well so get off my back about the degree wheel

Do you guys just bite people shit all the time? Fucken hell man! I've used that 90degree piece and it does work, the dremel is variable speed also. The bit does bite every now and then but not too bad. Can you guys then show me what 90piece would be better to use? Thanx

Lol the pen is just there to give perspective on size man.

Thank you. Probably the best advice anybody has given me so far. I got advice from a very good builder, he said keep them low and wide. Which makes sense as alotof low end motors run low duration on exhaust. I did raise my exhaust to 184 and I've read and heard that I won't loose much bottom end at all. The only thing I'm worried about now is that my blow down is at 32 which is higher than stock. So I'm thinking that might kill abit of my bottom end but I'm ganna run it and then see how it is and make changes. I had an idea of lowering my blowdown by grinding piston crown abit to be safe so my transfers open earlier. If it spreads the powerband then I would work on transfers and get new pistons. But now as you say squish is pretty important? So is this idea of myn a bad idea?

I have all the tools I need, I know how to use a degree wheel and I can find tdc with a dial gauge. Degree wheel is a primitive method imho. Trigonometry is way more accurate and faster. But I'm not gana lie, I did dive in abit too fast lol. I've done nothing to the transfers yet besides clean small flaws. Taking it slow.

I had the exact same problem when I first measured my ports with a degree wheel. The problem is we judge by eye when we think a port opens or closes. How big must the gap be when the port is officially open? Who knows? The first few times I measured with a degree wheel I kept getting different answers. What helps a lot is using a feeler gauge like 0.1mm thick. What you do is you basically put the tip of it into the port and then push the piston up against it. This will at least give you consistent measurements. You must also find true tdc with a dial gauge. The other method which I think is way more accurate is to measure the distance from port roof height to the top of your cylinder. You must then put your piston at tdc and find the differents between the piston top and the cylinder top. This is your deck height. Myn measured 0.8mm. After you determine deck height you must subtract it from the cylinder top to port roof measurement. the answer you get is a distance you use to calculate port timing via trigonometric triangular calculations. You must also take your crank stroke and conrod length into consideration. If any one of those change so does your timing. I didn't explain everything step by step but you get the point right? Now my vernier measures too two decimal places. All I do is take the exact measurment I get acurate to two decimal places and put it in an equation program I wrote, the program doesn't round numbers off so what it gives me is an answer to lots of decimal places and I just decided to round it off to 1 decimal place. I know 0.2 degrees won't make a differents but I just decided to work accurately.