Pasi S.

I´d say that your 98 is close to our 98 here in Finland. My friend has a 421CUB. His domes are custom cut 23cc domes. (Andy at M&M ATV) ​Our pump gas is 93.7 R+M/2 or higher.

test

Was your "mild port job" done in England or in The United States of Ammuricha? (..just a question)

I know you know better than me, but are you sure that you have small bore Shearers?

I "race" just to have some fun. ​I have 20-8-10 AR GT sd23´s and 16/42 or 41 gearing. Motor is stock ported on pump gas and I weight about 200-210. ​My questimation is, that you can do low 12´s and low 7´s with new tires and better gearing.

1. List of modifications 2. compression 3. wallet

CUB:Stock intake and stock head bolt pattern. PV/PowerValves are not an option. ​Cheetah: Mid-Top end power. Serval: Low-Mid range power. Wampus: (Cheetah/Serval power) Stock Cylinder appearance. Super CUB: Bigger than 68mm bore. Stock intake bolt pattern, but different head. DM, DMX, Scimitar, Cougar and Caracals are bigger and not for askholes. (joke)

I think I have a Wiseco 54/110 rod crank I don´t need. ​...and if you can´t find anyone local to port your stock cylinders, I can do a mild hack-job to them if you like. I live in Finland(EU), so I´m basicly 2-3 shipping days away from you.

This might be a very stupid question - but - what happens to CCCR if you use spacer plate and long rods (stroker) with a short rod pistons? ​OP said that porting is not an option in Neatherlands. ...My guess is that the durations may be a little off with that setup. ​I´m just guessing here, so don´t take this too seriously.

helluvalotow horzezs

Years ago, I heard that the word "CUB" means that you can use your stock reed/intakes and head. = same bolt pattern. Most people use a coolhead(with a CUB) for a bigger(68) bore or for a longer stroke.

...long strory short. Plug chop helped me to figure out, that biggest tuning problem were my needles. (JMO)

Thank you Bill!

Sorry, if the information was already there, but is that stock stroke for 54/110 or 115 rod? Thank you.

Robert, almost all DIY home porters get a serious shitstorm started on here - that´s why. You can´t do it your self. You need to use a pro builder to do it. in the end... If you get 55-60 horses out of it, people will say: "we told you to use a pro builder!" If you get 60-70 horses out of it, people will say: "nothing special..." If you get 70-80 horses out of it, people will say: " your dyno is full of shit!"

Remember - Do not run it, before it has passed the leak test.

Welcome!! This is a good site with alot of good people.

Ljj, how much you have money for this Project? With your current set up, how far behind you are from that "badboy" 501? Going from about 45 horse SS/SC motor up to about 90 horse aftermarket is a huge step. You need to think traction and gearing too.

Check/measure the cylinder height too. I have old set of stock cyl´s and there is 0.15mm difference in height.

Is the other piston 513MO6600 and the other one 513MO6500? My old eyes are not that good anymore - LOL!

Look around here and FB, Some cheap PowerPro´s pops up every now and then. I got mine real cheap. They are not that popular and you will find very little info about them. JMO - they should work better with a CUB than those PC pipes.

If I remember right... Dajogejr made 85 horses with T5´s, so 70-75 is possible IMO. Sell those PC´s and get some cheap PowerPros till you get CPI or Shearers (jmo)

Welded crank!?

How much you have money for this Project, and how much time you have before season starts? How much you think you´ll need power? ...aren´t those FMF Gnarlys like lower rpm range pipes? I think you´ll need a coolhead and domes, so add that to your list too. I would add different pipes too to give you more upper end RPM´s. Anyway, if you have an un welded stock crank, it can´t take much more than "bolt on" power, so you need to split cases anyway. ..just my opinion.

Cut both plugs this time and post a pic of them. If they are equal, I would vote NO for Air Leaks.