harleybeater

yea, but we actually put the oem stator back in and he's using the rm stator for back up.

ok everyone, sorry for the late posts but i've been dreading comming on here and telling the truth..... first of all i want to say thanks for all the great advice and helping us look at some electrical components that we might have overlooked.. especailly spark plug caps -who knew- ok so the whole weak spark thing, imo it does have weak spark but someone on here also told me that the spark usually looks weak possibly due to both cylinders firing at the same time.. reguardless the whole problem was the air filter outerwear along with the air filter that MY BROTHER SAID HE THROUGHLY CLEANED PRIOR TO GOING ON THE TRIP was plugged. so the lesson i learned about this is start with the most obvious stuff first, fuel, AIR, and spark!!! man.... wow this was so troubling. the way i found out was bro has a cheap air fliter intake adapter made out of plastic that doesn't actually bolt on like the pro design intake does so it makes it easier to move away from the airbox. while i was sputtering down the road i pushed down on the filter thru the swiss cheese air box lid allowing unfiltered air into the carbs and i almost flipped her over backwards!!! IT'S ALIVE, IT'S ALIVE!!!!! i knew it would be something so rediculous i'd almost be embarrased to say but oh well, we fixed it. runs great now thanks for all the help

ok,.. i give up!! swapped flywheels and nothin'... still crap. i'm so confused. i'm tryin to get a compression tester around to check that and then probably going to get the parts to do a leak down test. it almost sounded like it ran worse with my flywheel.

the only thing we haven't checked from my quad to his is the flywheel. even though his looks and sounds good with no rattles, could it possibly be it?? reguardless, that's next to be swapped hopefully sometime this week.

no man.... took the whole harness of and looked for anything that resembled burnt or rubbed or cracked wires. even unplugged the kill switch and headlight connector where it's a six pin connector behind the radiator and started it thinking it could be in the switches but it wasnt.

all right.... got a brand new rm stator, not sure if there good or not, but i've kinda read not so good things about ricky stator so that's what made that decision..... anyway, installed the stator. took her out for a dive and it does EXACTLY THE SAME THING!!! RUNS LIKE CRAP!!! checked the resistance of all three coils on the stator and they're within specs. flywheel is find, sounds solid with no rattles. took the carbs off and cleaned them up, no plugged jets. took reeds cages off and checked for cracks in reeds.... no cracks. put it all back together and tested again and does the same crappy bog. just dont know what to do now. this is really chizzlin' me out bad not to mention my bro's pissed and like goin thru serious banshee depression...haha we gotta laugh, what else are we gonna do. i've read about the "smack test" of the cdi but i've not done it yet. here's a question. will a 2001 cdi box work with a 2004 le??? i just feel like i've looked at everything but i know i'm missing something..

just curious, what will a leak down test prove electrically, or are you thinking it's possibly something else?

that's the thing though, i thought it came off pretty hard myself. the grooves in the sides of the key kinda really weren't grooves so much as just small indent lines. as for the sound of the flywheel while riding, i didn't hear anything unusual, and by the way it came off, if it's loose, then we got even bigger problems!! the lights didn't do any weird flicker that i could see. wait, what do you mean by "shale it" ? i did clean the inside taper of the flywheel and the taper of the crank with a very fine quad ot steel wool to remove a little discoloration but it looked more like rust than glaze.

ok, couldn't get a woodruff key fast enough so we cleaned the stator with a rag just for kicks and put the flywheel back on with the old key. fit fine and went on strait but i'll still get another key. i put my working ignition coil on bro's quad and fired it up and STILL runs the same, weak spark and won't rev out. so we put his coil with new plug caps back on and STILL the same thing. we pulled off the wiring harness and removed all the tors wiring and the parking brake wire and check all the in-harness ground crimps and all ok. didn't see any rubbing and so i taped it back up and put it back in the bike. fired it up again and STILL the same thing. did another ohm check on the stator and the lighting coil was slightly higher than speck in the book but not by more than 10-15 ohms. the stator is the last thing that we havn't swapped from mine to his so he's going to buy a stator and a key and hope for the best i guess. anyone have any other ideas???

original factory yamaha stator still installed on an '04 LE

update-... pulled the flywheel today and the woodruff key looked to be chipped on one end about an 8th of an inch and it kinda looked like it had wear marks like indents on both sides like it was out too far and the flywheel rotating and engine braking maybe put the grooves in them. but maybe i'm confused but even if the key was advanced or retarted, the spark should be intense correct? the stator and the ground on the stator looked good, didnt see any busted or rubbed wires. so i guess so far we've discovered it's not the cdi box, not the plugs, not the plug caps, pretty sure it's not the stator (yet), so next is to try my ignition coil on his. just double checking what i've done so far. soon as i get mine washed we'll switch coils. keep ya posted

sorry it took so long to get back.... brother had trouble with his parts being shipped. so replaced the spark plug caps and it did not make a difference in mid range or top end.. it did make a slight difference on bottom, acted like it wanted to come into the power in first gear but it wont. pick up coil gap is correct. i'm going to ohm everything out again. dumb question, if one of the ohm readings is not within spec, but it's only out by a very small number, does that mean it's a bad component?

you laughed!? the 5k caps are a heck of a lot lower resistance than the 125k and 3.5meg that i came up with..... i even used two different fluke meters and came up with close to the same thing. why would both caps be reading so high? do caps usually go bad? i just doesnt make sense that magically over nite that the plug caps are bad, but i'll definately tell him to get two and will check the pick up coil.

the elevation change from here to there -at the base of the mountain- is only 400 feet, and he probably didnt even get up the 2000' hill 100', so that's why we haven't changed any of the jetting. as for the stator and grounds, i'll get to check tomorrow. will also check the pick up gap and for excess rust or corrosion. i did a resistance check of the plug boots cause i read somewhere that they had little resistors in them, but when i did the check, i got two very different readings... it seemed like one boot was 125k ohm and the other was 3.5 meg ohm. not really sure what that means. obviously one's going to be easier to get voltage thru and possibly not as intense spark but both plugs are getting very small spark. i visually cant really tell a difference. thanks for the advice and i'll tell what i find. oh yea, i'm gonna need to find a flywheel puller first. hmmmm

it's a long story so i'll try to make it quick, ... did a rebuild on bro's quad. stock '04 shee with sst pipes, k&n filter. had it bored .o4o over. put in a weisco pro lite piston kit. while torn down, we did a tors eliminator kit and got rid of the parking brake. after getting all back together, started and ran so so. knowing we had to rejet, so we did. had everything dialed in and it was running great, (mine was rippin' compared to his but mine's built differently... anyway) he rode it for probably 5 or 6 hours after the rebuild and then we loaded up to go riding 9 hours away. BLACK MOUNTAIN KY Awesome riding!! got it out of the trailer the next day and it wouldn't even pull it's own weight in 2nd gear. really boggy. cleaned the carbs 3 times now. check out good. no plugged jets. after the trip we checked the resistance of the lighting coil- good, ignition coil-good, pick up coil-good, spark plug coil- good we even switched the cdi box from mine to his and it ran exactly the same. it will free rev almost exactly like it should, but when it's in gear, getting up into mid range and then on to the main jet is not possible, really boggy like it doesnt have enough spark to burn the fuel. also pulled both plugs and replaced them... and did a plug check against the head while out of the head and the spark is not an intense one. it's appears to be mutiple small not intense sparks going from the electrode to the j hook. on mine, the were intense blue sparks. voltage regulator is good too. when the head lights are off and the motors running, when ya turn the head lights on low or high, you can hear a slight change in the idle of the motor. or when the motor is on and the headlights are on and you depress the brake pedal, the head lights will noticibly dim.... so puzzled... could it be the stator even if it ohm's out properly? could it be the spark plug coil? could it be a short in the harness somewhere?? any help or direction would be awesome. thanks