AKheathen

ok, i'm a little fuzzy on exactly what you want here. title says stock stroke, but you state that you just don't wanna step to drag cyls. you can stroke it with stock cyls-1 you can move to a drag port, which would likely have to do at least dune/drag with your current cyls on a 4mill crank, but you can step strait to stock stroke drag or somewhere in there. 2 you can pick up a little mid with a longrod crank, but it takes a tad overrev off-3 depending on which boysen dual stage reeds you have, switching up to boysen pro, vforce, or something can gain on the top.-4 moving the reed spacers to the intake side of the reeds may help on the topend, if they are not there.-5 it all depends on exactly what you want out of it. you can boost your numbers no problem and get it to an agressive drag, or you can focus on a broader, more seat-of-the-pants and technical power to the ground, like needing to ride dunes/hillshots, trail, or whatever. overriding the tranny will make it shift like a dream under full load, and there's several different options/levels to choose, based on what suits your needs. a lockup can really help more than just needing it for high hp builds. i put one on my woods/trail/hillshooter, and really noticed a difference in the hardest riding and with engagement speed on hillclimbs when i slip it. without knowing exactly what you want, and what kind of ridding, we can't really narrow it down to what will be best to shove some umph up your butt......oh, and welcome to the bhq

damnit! i was trying to get the 1,000,000th post, lol. oh well. rock on

as long as the crank is in good shape, and bearings, it can handle most bolt-ons and less than 180psi cranking compression. more than that, and high rpms will effect what it can hold up to. it is always good to have it welded anyways, in case of ballance issues.

i found a site that sells formed banshee hoses in several colors, and silicone, but they are like 160. has someone tried just linear silicone hose without kinking? i know it's pretty flexible.

oh, i thought you were talking about bolts, lol yah, blue non-hardening rtv on the threads, and on hard washers, or use coper washers. might get it to seal with just adding rtv.

make sure to line it up with the wristpin from right to left

well, here is a link to a sit that prssantana had.....kinda steep, imo, but looks high quality formed hose, and purple is 1/2 off, lol.... http://www.cvproducts.com/Powersports/Products/Cooling/Silicone%20Hose%20Kits/Products.aspx?1=Powersports&2=Cooling&Name=Silicone+Hose+Kits

oh, and i also have some info you might be interested in- the long rod and short rod cranks will change the port timings quite a bit too, because of dwell time. i don't remember exact timing off the top of my head, but i do know that the transfer time is increased with the short/stock rod on a 4mill, and basically, the minimum rpm biased porting is higher than long rod. i was also looking at some stock transfers, and they can definately use some cleaning up on the top side, but not necisarily getting into the roof, just at the sleeve, where you can feel a step-down. it can be done with an egg-bit on the strait tool, if you are interested in playing there.

is it a multi-layer metal gasket, or solid spacer, about 1.5mm thick? coolheads don't use gaskets, just o-rings to seal, but if your domes aren't recessed, you need it spaced to clear the crank. to tell if the domes are recessed, compare the edge of the squish band in the chamber to the o-ring recess. if it's about the same depth as the o-ring, then it's a regular stock stroke dome. if it's allot deeper, like more than 1mm, then it's a recessed dome. coper gaskets, and even aluminum spacers are reuseable, just clean them good and re-seal with coper gasket spray, or whatever was there when you took it off. take some squish measurements when you get it back together

wow, i didn't know it got chopped when the old links were consolidated. what you want to do- assuming the screw is still stuck in the tank, cut the head off the srew and clamp on to the threads with a drill chuck. set it on high speed, and run it for a min, untill the plastic heats up and the wholew insert comes out with a little pulling. this will leave a nice, clean round hole that you can either use the above mentioned insert, or get a well nut from the hardware/ home improvement store, which should be readily availiable in stock thread size, to avoid mix-matched bolts/screws.

rotting hoses will leave the "gritty" rubber media. unless it actually lloks like sand, it's just rubber. it could also be some grinding from your impellar. hose-onlymedia will be gritty balls, and also resemble thick, sticky sludge when you squish/smear it. start with a water flush, then chemical, which you can get from wal-mart or anywhere, even some gas stations. then rip the hoses off for replacement, and check out the impellar. in the future, make sure the coolant is serviced before the max life span, which is usually 3 years normal, and 2 hard service for conventional. if you don't mind the cost, silicone hose would be an awesome choice, and not rot like that. don't forget to check the cap and smaller hoses.

just to clarify- you don't want polished intake/transfers, just exhaust. what porting will depend on what you want, and are setup for.

just std vm carbs. size is stamped on the side of the bor in the 2nd pic. they will accept a normal plunger/lever choke. the cable is an upgrade, imo. x2 on checking the float needle. pumpers use a smaller oraface, if i remember, but might just need different adjustment.

i ran 20's on 90 oct. for a while, then went with +5.5 timing, so bumped the oct. a bit. it is possible to run 19's on 93, but a little risky, and with near stock bore. however, when you port the exhaust, you loose a little compression. it's not what you measure cranking, but dynamic compression, so anywhere from 150-180. it really depends on the specific setup.

alright, listen you fucktard- i wasn't bashing you untill you got all butthurt and whined about brandon, sleeper, and me not postingup numbers. bottom line- i can say i don't have the exact numbers, and probably never will, aside from stock and stock4mill-no spacer, untill they are verified by someone or i put it on the wheel. i don't know if they have the other numbers just laying around either, since they pretty much deal in final correctly ported durrations without a spacer. fact of the matter- you are rather reckles with sharing info, not in the sence that it is secret, or just speculation and guessing, or even mistaken in general, but some of this potential misleading can do serious damage to not only to a topend, but to people themselfs. i don't really agree with pasi in the statement that you should do buisiness with a sponsor to have the right to use the site, but i understand drunken posts,lol. i don't know where you keep getting the idea that we are all trying feed the sposors and not give the people freedom to do what they want. we all talk good about sponsors and suggest them because we like them. they all have good deals, do honest, unbeatable work, and are safe. i cannot think of one that does not go above and beyond for us. i think you are just trying to upp your "freedom fighter" persona, more than help. if you wanna "fight the battle" go pay for a membership at some other forum, where it is a problem, and have fun there. i'm sure it will not be so many peers speking out, but site management gettin pissed off having to deal with the tin-foil hat mentalitly. you know- i was searching something a few months ago and came across some car furum, like honda or wrx, or something, and one guy asked about removing the governor and all holy hell broke loose about speeding and shit. don't know why that comes to mind, but i do wonder how long a guy like you would last there....that would likely be your last post, and you wouldn't even get the satisfaction of telling them to fuck off. this is a damn liberal site, and i am fuckin greatfull it's here. i get nothing from suggesting a sponsor, nor do i benifit from hiding helpfull info. this site is here to perpetuate and enjoy the shee, which means that the more bikes AND their riders keep running good, the longer bhq stays strong.

actually, big bore makes a big difference. probably 21-22cc, but i would check with trinity first, to see what they say for their porting.

well, i would go with 20's, or mabey 19's depending on the exhaust height.

there you go attacking people again- it's not that we will not post numbers, or lie about it. even brandon/mull is jumping in to help, it's that we don't want to post unproven or mistaken numbers, because once someone takes it in good faith as fact, not estimate, and hacks some cyls, then it's really your fault for screwing up someones cyls. not technically, or legally, but morrally. i can tell you that the 4mill-no spacer was more accurate on your first post, to the best of my knowledge, but i'm not 100% how close on the transfers. only way to know is when i drop the crank in and check it. oh, and i wouldn't think of asking a builder to spit out too much info, since that is knowledge that they spent years and tons of money to gain, and puts food in their families mouths. the builders on this site are above and beyond helpfull

yah, there may be some that it is possible, but when you think about how the thing works. i wouldn't really risk either not jumping into gear like it should, or not having the pressure when you do backload. jmo......and just goin off what i have always heard, too.

sounds like you may have a stuck slide, or pulled cable. that slight pressure tells me that the tors is activated. start by making sure the slides bottom out and are synced, that the choke tube is in place, and everything is where it came from. after that, if it's not screaming, and will idle ok, but you still have to touch the throttle to take up the freeplay, then you can unplug the tors controll module, which is located under the gas tank on the left, near the coil. it's a little 1.5x1.5x3/4" black box with a 3-wire pigtail. i strongly urge that you make sure the throttle operates good before unplugging it. tors main reason is run-away safety, butit can screw-up and get screwed up and give you a big problem, killing the spark.

well, you'll never know untill you get in there. even if the dogs were rounded, it can bend a fork. just make sure, that, if you run the stock trans, it can work with the override drum, but you will probably need the stock drum, too. also- don't run a modded shift star with the override, it needs the centering pressure to stay in gear. who knows- you might be able to fix it easy. if you do decide, or need to trash it, i would be interested in it, just to play with on a mock.

so, "practical means the difference between 60 and 80hp? or, peak hp, vs, total profile? if you get the numbers closer, it will make a huge differnce. i'm not geven gonna go into my opinion on the spacer plate again

yah, i believe the blowdown numbers are actually allot less favorable than that.

i'm not gonna get in the arguement on being able to backload a duneable, or how much and how/when, but the symptoms describe exactly what has happened. bent shift fork, and/or rounded dogs. it could have been backloading, or simple shifting problem, such as up or downshifting with too much pressure, which happens in any trans, even stock, especially, if you accededntally lean foreward/back on the shifter.

yah, if you are not gonna be in the woods doing slow, technical maneuvers all the time, you are pretty much open to any mid to mid-top pipe, which includes the t-5's and dmc, etc....pretty much all popular pipes outside of drag. those t-5's are a good deal, and probably suit what you want best. if you want a little more bottom after the t-5's and timing, you can re-gear the sprockets, too. as for shaving the head- you need to have the chambers checked for exact size and clearance first. there is no majic number for a stock head, since no 2 are alike. keep the squish above .035" and 20cc+ asl.