AKheathen

umm, tail lights?

sending pm...

well, you can have the stocker revalved to your liking.....that's wht chris did...

hey, if you have any old stators layin around, any brand, any year or condition, i am interested. of coarse, i am not looking to pay top-dollar for a nice working stator, and there are plenty of other people that need them. i just want some to practice on, so if you can help, i would be greatfull.

did you break yours? or never had one?..........

did your stator not ohm out or something? specifically, you need the pickup coil, since you don't have one....... if you get a whole stator, i'd be interested in your old one, working or not....

what is your squish set @? you'll probably do pretty good with 100ll avgas, or 50/50 100ll and 110. you will want an oil that supports the oxegenated and race fuels/those with higher s.g. it will say on the back. as for brand, just pick a quality brand that you have normal access to, and search independant reviews. brand choice will get 100 different answers, and the manufacurers reviews are always skewed. as for mixture, i always base it on the jetting requirements. likely you will end up @ 40:1 for best results, but you may want to start with 32:1 and see how that runs. that also depends on the oil,, too.

eh, and coolheads don't have different cc's from each-other. most are the same, with interchangeable domes. so, you pick the size you want

well, you need to do a plug chop to see where you're jetting is.....there is a pinned topic in jetting that describes how.....next, your performance issues can come from the reed spacers being on the cylinder side. for some engines, it works, just a little, and others it creates problems in performance. when it makes problems, you put them on the carb side of the reeds... what is your temps and elevation?

yes, that can cause issues......i would still check out the jetting. 1 size rich will work, but more than that could run bad and sputter/bog a bit

take your silencer apart and the flange is actually pretty easy to straiten out with a sand pack and pliers. the tough part is straitening the core carefully. i cracked mine in the middle and had to stitch it back together durring a ride, then weld it....but it's strait now.

well, i believe that in 01, the carb bowls lack the little overflow tube, and only have the drain screw....which it will be possible that it drains into the engine first. definately check the float heights.....

well porting is the next big bang after pipes. however, if you plan on going further later, you are going to want to do a stroker, and you usually can't with ported cylinders, as the extra stroke needs different porting. you have alot of life left in your cylinders, so it's up to you to decide whether you will be happy with stock stroke porting.....or you will have to make the jump strait to 4mill.. there are options to run a 4mill crank, without porting for a while if money is an issue, but you will really be holding back power if you don't port it.

cheack and see if your flywhel came loose or something

167? what's your elevation?

whoo buddy, you may want to throw a compression test on top of that.......mabey even visually inspect the cylinders, if you wanna catch possible major damage before it happens. grey can be from piston material. also, what is the temps there?

oh, that sucks......i always knot the slack up somehow in straps, slam around for a bit, then check again......in your case, i would have cut the straps to fit.....have you tried to bend the silencer back to shape? i had to bend mine, too, and it came out just fine.

well, first, long periods of idling is bad for overheating anyways, but it is normal to load up with fuel, due to the way it's tuned for performance. if the mixture is set to idle perfect, you will usually get a little lean stutter just off idle, so you richen the idle mixture with the screw and it will not be best for idling long, but it will run better otherwise.......that aside, airleaks can develope, such as cracking intake rubber, and also create an idle problem......the 2 idle problems are similar, and hard to tell the difference, unless you are adjusting your airscrews for the new environment at each ride, and it adjusts funny. also, hard starting, usually stems from either airleak/lean or plugged jets. if you havn't adjusted your main jetting for the colder temps, and you have even a minor airleak, it can become a major problem. sorry this is long winded, but basically..... check for airleaks and plugged jets on the side that has the lower compression, probably want to do a leakdown unless it's obvious. your cylinders should be less than 5psi from each-other on a healthy engine. next, pop the head off and inspect the pistons/cylinders, for heat damage. at the least, you are looking at a re-ring @ this point. also, pay close attention to the ports, and if they are properly chamfered to keep the rings from catching.

well, welcome cori. i would start by cleaning your carbs, one at a time, and make sure your jetting is right. junk can get in the jets and passages, especially if you tipped the bike on it's side to do the clutch, or removed the carb to pull the release lever for some reason.

well, what is your elevation, and have you advanced the timing? most likely 93 will suffice. and what bore size?

haha, eaasy killah..........the terms are detonation and pre-ignition....not pre-detonation. that is just a mixed up word. sounds like you did a little homework to try and back the word up, but if you read the whole thing, you will find where it states that the word is, in fact, made up. spark knock, or deto, is a latent occurence that comes tward the end of the burn, and not before regular ignition. preignition comes PRE---ignition, of a diesel type ignition. i suppose, if you fould a plug and don't get a spark, you could have both, during a deiseling scenario, you could have both, but it would be pre-nothing. just click on blowits' link....

are you running higher compression than stock? also, have you tried a plug chop @ the dunes? a little rich when @ operating temp should be fine, but if you arer a little rich with the engine cool, and in different environment, you can be alot more rich than you think, and it will take a little longer to warm up to operating temp. also, what kind of stator do you have? have you checked the pickup gap? what do the plugs look like when you let it cool after acting up? also, check the harness, especially near the exhaust for burning.

it's that little box bolted to the bottom of my stator plate.........looks like you gotta buy one now, huh?.....and a voltage reg....

you have a pickup bolted to the plate, right? green/white and red/white.