AKheathen

you just want to avaid oils with friction modifiers and heavy weight....i went with gm auto trac II fort cold weather

dude, raw fabrication is where it's at. if you don't have the passion or aptitude for it, that's ok since you have those who do. beats, trying to scabb pre-fabbed shit to fit an un-intended aplication. i would not try to blend stainless and mild steel. the banshee frame is japneese mild and will blend well with chromolly, though you can use cheap mild if structurally built right.ith chromolly, though you can use cheap mild if structurally built right. while you are at it, you may want to look in the suspension section and there is a long travle you can fab up for the front that would do you some good.

i think he does head exchange, too, so there is no waiting....

10-16 or 17v a/c yellow and black wires with the bullet connectors

you should have about 1/8" play when you push on the case lever, untill you fell it stop

yah, you usually get creative.....i mounted the little bullet lights with the mr-16 bulbs sideways on the stock mount, and then a big round one in the mount....

you can cut them if you want, and have the tools to shape it to flow good, or i'm sure someone would be willing to trade for ported stock cages

it worked....it's ok to go a little bigger, likw whatever x 200

be nice chris....... http://tiny.cc/pipebutter

mmmmm, purdy.... i passed up one just like that at a hell of a great price, but it would sit for a while while i save up the mony to rebuild it, with likely a head assy, crank, piston, min, and probably a cyl and whatever suprise is inside.......not saying that wasn't just a special case, just remided me.......problem is, pretty much everyone begains building the banshee for all out topend, even on a "mid-top" build. it can be built with awesome low-mid, and still rev out, as some few do, but they are off the mainstream market, and have not recieved any factory mods in 20 years....i'm supprised how many hq'ers are saying not to buy a banshee as a duner....

well, it sounds like you have an issue in the pilot circuit or other fuel delivery. the fuel lines shouldn't suck air in right there, if it was too loose, it would leak fuel. where do you have your airscrews set? you may have to clean your carbs out and check the float setting. figure out which pilots are in there. what do your plugs look like when it stalls out?

omg, i would brake his fucking legs, or call the police....that was your $200 head, not his. who is the one who put the regular fuel in and messed up the dome? get your "bad head" back and an o-ring kit. new domes are only 40, and you can get them cheaper. you have to measure stroke. 54mm is stock.....that steering is normal for better turning...

yah, .030" is the point where you need t rechamber, or you can get piston slap and be more prone to deto. oh, and shrink your damn signiature already!

you hould see the boelw zero sticking........impossible to break 'em free

it's really the thermal properties of the butter that does the trick, plus the chemical process to keep the suface tension lower on the ouside, than the inside, much the same as watter wetter or engine ice works in your cooling system. you know that old trick of putting butter on a burn that used to work good, but was unsanitary. it's much like that in how it works on the boil. petroleum products might not work well, and something like liquid soap or wd40 would be too thin....possibly 4-5 tubes of neosporin each, but that could get pricey. butter is cheap, and works good. i had to do it on my left pro-circuit, ince it was pretty mangled when i got it, and i couldn't get it to both line up with the silencer, and go in easy. i tried some wheel bearing grease, to no avail, since it just took the cold in real quick and held it...kind of sucked to have to clean it and do it again the next day. just go with butter the first time, and save the hassle...wish i thaught to take vid, but i was too embarresed to admit that i didn't get it perfect. it might help to set the frame upside-down so you can wiggle it on the head, and start with it rolled away from the frame a little to get it seated, then roll it in. you don't have but a few minuets to do it, so that would be the way i can see getting it in the best the first time. concentrate on getting it over the head squarely, and you may want to clean and chamfer the edges where the pipe first slips over. a thin coating there of grease, or butter will help, too. if it still catches the frame, push the stinger end tward the clutch and bump it in with your hip, it should go.....don't forget to get vid or pics so i can show what i'm talking about next time....you're not the first, and i can't always post this long....

cables do not suddenly stretch...and they are cheap, like $12...

i'm assuming you just went up from stock carbs? what was in there before, and what mods?

you can use the frame off a bmx or something for good material, or buy tubing.....you will taco that thing otherwise

go buy a new cable and install it.....

banshee ftw, dumbass

do yourself a favor and keep your bike away from that guy. he is either a bit out of the know, trying to rip you off, or both. i would ditch the boost bottle, but the rest is pretty valuable to your build. first, those lectrons are probably the best carbs you can run. i have heard from every great banshee man running lectrons that they are the easiest to tune, and most reliable, once you learn how....similar to your eldelbrock......being a mechanic, it should be well within your reach, and the large size of the carb can be handled with roll-on throttle, though they may not be too big, depending on what's in there......you can get the parts easily, i hear. the porting will set how much bottom end you can achieve, but switching to the chariot reed and setting the timing at the right advance should help that also.......now, here comes the kicker....if you did the compression test right, then you need a rebuild. 5psi is the max difference between cylinders. at least you will be able to take the port timings down, measure stroke, check the dome size, cr. etc.....

well, i'd be all over a response, however, i have not messed with pj's........that being said, i have studied different power jets and how they work. it should work off of engine demand, throttle demand, and environmentals. basically, it is setup for average conditions. and now that you are much higher, you are gonna get a different delay through the circuit, and may need to change the pj airjet, and may need to change the nossle/jet, or whatever adjusts the pj fuel delivery. basically speaking, that lowrpm hesitaion is normal for the banshee, but powerjet adjustment should help that with pre-enrichment, in theory. where did you have to go with the jetting adjustments? richer? higher elevation pump fuels tend to demand that. i hope someone else with hands-on experience will help out also...

yah, just a drain hole....dropped a screw in there once.....as soon as i saw the hole, i nearly shit myself thinking a plug was missing and i'd have to split the cases... found it on the belly pan...

yah, that was the initial issue here..........and the choke only works from idle to somewhere below 1/2 throttle, so it will not tell you anything a bout the mains...

are you sure you had the pickup gap set right when you had it at +4? it can change a bit every time you loosen the bolts. if you plan on doing a 4mill later, you will be money ahead to just buy an aftermarket head for the price you will have to pay to work yours twice....and you can just cange the domes out to suit your needs