AKheathen

i wouldn't soak it in brake kleen....some pretty harsh stuff meant for momentary use........a couple rounds of carb cleaner should do fine....

thanx.......bump

well, that's just the cover and lockup..........yah the cover is the big thing, and the lockup is cheap new, but you are gonna want the new pump setup, and the pump cover would just be an eye sore without something that matches...so, it's ovet 100 more, plus shipping......

how bad are the cylinders after breaking the ring? most likely just nicked the port and there is probably plenty left that will be removed anyway with porting....

well, that could be due to the mx port and higher tension reeds with the big pj's on your 4mill, giving more mid and less low than the stocker with low tension reeds.....

adjust the right one to match the healthy left cylinder. check the plug to see if it's lean or rich, and not fouling. adjust a little @ a time and give it around 15 seconds for the engine to catch up to the mixture adjustment. try both directions.you already have it flowing evenly, so you don't have to mess with that it shouldn't be more than 1/4 turn away, or there is probably some other issue......also, the core/baffle can break or have other obvious damage in the silencers.

hahahahaha.....good ass shit, chris.... why, matt why?

couple things not right there.......1st, the bog for a second then pick up power, is a clasic lean hesitation. rich, it will sputter first and not pick back up untill you get the throttle in a leaner spot, remove the load, ir will just die. there is also a proper plug chop procedure that yoiu can search for on here, which you put a brand new plug in a warm engine, wot for at least 10 seconds, then cut the threads off and read the ring on the bottom of the porcelin. without a new plug, you are just getting an average history reading, but doesn't tell much. start with the mains via plug chop, then set the needles, and finally pilots and airscrews. the screws on the side are the idle screws that the slides rest on. look up syncing the carbs and it will tell you how to set the cables even, then the idlescews matched, then the cables again......the 340 main and 30 pilot is a good safe place to start for sea level and cool temps....

holly geeze....11cc's? i'm lookin for 21cc stroker domes....typo?

yah, you will have a long ass torque curve, that comes on pretty low. mostly trail ridding, but it'll work great for alot of different ridding. instead of a lightswitch, high rpm power hit, that is hard to use sometimes, you can pertty much cruise along and stab it for power right now. really nice for launching off any little thing you want to. the different silencers are for if you need to pass forrestry/sparky or sound requirements, or not.

so, it's not shutting the bike down? it grounds to the harness. pull the switch apart, lift the red slider, and you can ohm it to the stator plug, if you don't immediately see the problem. just touch one end to the black (ground) wire and the other on the brass that the slider contacts. then, do the same to the black/white wire. it will tell you which wire has the problem, or that it's in the slider. may just need cleaned. i covered the slider in nyk dielectric grease, and it works great @ keeping moisture and anything else out. i originally had an icing problem, but they have been known to have a wire break where it's soldered on.

i believe the banshee goes as high as 16v....have to check on that one. also, check the rear vent tube fitting, @ the rear motor mount. it may have poped out. found out on that one, because i load by walking it on the grab bar

it's a cake walk to do. you can even tip the bike on its' side and not have to drain the oil. just pay attention how it all comes apart. pull the side cover and it's all there.......you will need a gasket, you can use a penny in the gears to hold the basket from turning..

you can probably go with 18cc domes and still have room to play with the timing for more than +4. it's best to talk to the guy who ported your cylinders as to what size domes, compression ratio, etc. your elevation will decide also. you will notice a stronger midrange and smoother power hit, but not nescicarily gain that much, even though it may feel like it

had mine pop out....dunped my oil all over the ground loading up.....lucky yours was on the skid

bump your comperssion, too.......both those together will give you a little noticeable power. figure what fuel you are willing to run, and get a coolhead with the appropriate domes

well, first, check your silencers to make sure they are both packed good, and no core problems, then, you can adjust just 1 airscrew to even it out firing.

yah, it's probably just a syncing issue, which you can set better by adjusting the airscrews to make it fire better/smoother, and adjusting the idle screws to even out the pressures, then resync the cables. however, you can also have an airleak, so definately check that....

as a rule of thumb, a 20-30 degree drop in temp calls for +1 size main.....however, below freezing, humidity really drops, calling for more fuel on top of that. somewhere just below 0 degrees, fuel volatility also drops @ a much higher rate calling for another close jump, and pilot size increase. not sure many other people ride that cold, but me though...

no offense, but i think you guys are looking at it a little backwards.........you should be able to throw pipes on a stock bike and have little to no effect on starting it as it did before. however, in the most likely case that the jets were changed, there could be an assembly problem. are the carb bowls switched? is the choke tube in place? are the cable retainers covering the little holes in the top of the slides? all these will nix the choke circuit. on the other hand, if you are still running stock jets, and rode it a while like that, then you could have burned it up, which will make it hard to start, among other things.....

well, hell that could be most of your problem right there......water pump seal, and you will probably need the bearing too. you have to remove your clutch cover to replace it, so you can check out your clutch while you are in there.

get some pics of the carbs, and the pipes, while you are @ it

ummm, that is a little hard to understand, but from what gather, your clutch only grabs @ the end of full released on the lever? if so, loosen the cable slach @ the pertch and see if that helps. this can cause the pushrod to weld aswell if you don't.....you can have carb tuning issues making it bog down.....also, sounds like your clutch is dry, and needs to be ridden, or the basket is worn out

sometimes it helps to just screw it

i would start with 320's to be safe, but probably 310 will be it. 27.5 pilot most likely, but you may need a 30 once you get 30 or below