AKheathen

i just open the barn door.......alot more sensitive than my finger......but i don't lick it...

not you, whiteboy..............you just posted when i was replying.....

i was wondering how you figured that......i just add 1:0 to factor the pipe and .5:0 for agressive porting. last time i mentioned about "dynamic cr" i got a flogging, so i just don't bring it up anymore.

guestimating that mutch can throw your numbers off a bit

the screens that come in the gas tank stock are actually alot finer than the little in-line filters, like the brass one and the screen kind, plus, they allow the debris to fall off the side of the filter, keeping it clear, unlike the inline filters. you might run one on an aftermarket fuel valve, if it doesn't have one, but otherwise, it becomes a reliability to plug up with sludge or separated oil/water, etc. just drain the bowls once in a while to keep them clean. any debris that you might find in the bowls come from other places in the carb, not the tank, unless it's rotten hose. look down in the bottom of the tank and you'll see what i'm talking about.

haha, you neither answered my question, nor told me someting new. the thing is, domes aside, the the corrected compression ratoi, or "japaneese method" if you prefer, is the largest with stock porting. the higher the exhaust port, the lower the ccr. i've always baased the need for higher octane by a ccr of 10.1:1 or more, based on sea level. i'm just currious how porting will raise cr or need for higher octane

you should try mixing to lower octane. there really is a seat-of-the pants difference you can feel when running @ minimum octane. when i switched to using avgas, i decided to run strait100ll. it wasn't running bad or anything, but it really woke up once i refilled with 50/50 mix of 90&100ll

how many cdi's have you gone through, and did it fix it each time? if you are going through cdi's and the wiring looks ok, then it still could be the stator. did you ohm out the coil?

they sell them for the rated carb bore. for example, if you have a pwk33, then you order pods for 33mm carbs, even though the flange is like 58 or whatever. you better get some clamps on that boost bottle. it looks like your pipe is about to fall apart, too

there is a coolant plug under the cylinders

my 20's did fine with fresh 90 octane. make sure you are jetted rich enough. i buy 100ll @ the pump, and mix to 95 with +5.5

it's not the tors. if you gave it fuel and it came to life, it wants fuel. it's something in the carbs. clean that carb again. you probably have something coming from the fuel lines plugging it up.

how is your filter setup? do you have the k&n in the box? is the lid installed? mods to the lid? snorkel?

i wanna say to start around 260 mains, but we need your elevation and ridding temps to be sure

is the elevtion of the gas station where you get your fuel te same? if so, i would start with 320-330 on the mains. do a proper plug chop, or post your symptoms if it breaks up/sputters/falls on its face/etc @ wot

that's the thing about the e-brake circuit. all it does is turn on the rev limiter, which means that it will run fine and hae great spark, etc, untill it reaches 2300 rpm, where it will either cut out, or misfire/run like crap. it's the green/yellow wire in the harness, and is not connected to the tors circuits in an way, just goes strait to the cdi.

tear the carbs down, 1 at a time, and clean them thouroughly. remove the jets, etc. clean up any burrs on the slides or bore.

ok, now i'm confused @ your process. porting would lower the ccr. please explain....

in the 30's. it can separate with different fuels, too. this is why i chose not to run it.

you run that much octane with 20's? mine didn't make as much power with 100ll and +5.5 right now i'm running 95 octane with much better results.

actually, you can have your head machined to accept noss domes. that way, you can switch them out to 21's to run pump gas again. i still say, porting will make your engine strongest. it should get you 20-35 horse power, at least.

just remove the wires going up to the clutch pertch, or cut the green/yellow wire anywhere

well, if you have the rz350, your head will be different. you can have your head remachined to 21cc domes. you can also send yout cylinders to one of the banshee builders and have it ported. it is verry important to have someone with alot of experience porting banshee cylinders do this

the only ways to check the cdi is to smck it and to replace it. make sure you guys check the harness where it's supposed to be attatched to the side of the airbox. that is the most common melting point, and can make itnermittent and partial shorts. if you make a new harness, make sure to use the same colors or at least a cross reference for future troubleshooting.

i've done that a few times....all you can do is waterproof your carbs/airbox/whatever. pull the lugs, kick it, torch the plugs, and fire it up and clear it out