AKheathen

cool beans

yah, that's the wowie port. you should get the flexcam and run negative squish with ported head gaskets for better topend

there is a little wire clip under that rubber boot. as far as i've heard, you just replace the choke plunger because noone sells the clip..

i have a spacer plate that i'll trade for stroker domes of the right size you can use a plate to run it fine. it just desn't make as much power. domes without porting will keep the timings to low to keep up with a stock engine. this includes the transfer timings

x2, you need pretty stock porting to go 4mill

....haha, that's great

well, looking for obvious damage, and roll it over to see piston moovement....works even beter when you are using the flywheel to roll it. since the exhaust will be off, look through the ports to see what you can

...........and brand new ones can read 15000 right out of the box consistantly........and not just one defective new one.

definately needs more fuel. you are doing damage running it like that. we need your elevation and temps, but i'd start with at least 310 jets. check for airleaks and clean our carbs out

my thaughts exactly......you need to know the range of the portwork before you go slaping on parts. for example, you're not gonna make any power if you bolt ptmids, boysen reeds, and +6 timing to a set of drag cylinders. you have to match your parts to these cylinders.

i well aside from the fact that hedidn't listen to you about jetting, he should hold the dealership responsible. after all, they are the trained representitives of the manufacturer, right? they are alwauys spouting out of their ass about shit that they have no clue, and keep getting away with it. i have to argue half the time just to get them to sell me shit, but in this case, it's major damage.

here ya go......i tied the expansion plug because it poped out a couple times even though i cleaned and roughed up the end. heating the pipe releases the buildup into a hot oil that creaps in there and some dents took more than 100psi. wear hearing protection. heat the creases, not the center of the dent, unless it's a crease, and apply the air once it's glowing. what kind of dent? pic? and you can see the rest of the pics in this album My link

ooh, lemmie go see if i can load the pics real quick.... i baught everything at ace, except the blow nossle. you need the tightest expansion plug you can cram in the stinger end, a big rubber stopper, washers and e-clips or c-clips, and pipe fittings to attatch through the stopper after you drill it. i think it was 2" stopper, and 1" leverstyle expansion plug. you need the ability for pinpoint high intensity heat. ocy/aceteline works best, but you can probably get it glowing with mapp gas with the turbine tip

not the best.....

1.5

yah, pull the head and find out

23-25cc.....they all vary

the front bearings are already loaded pretty good, and i wouldn't suggest increasing that with spacers. if you can't afford new arms, you can get arm spacers that mount to the frame for width.

you are using the metal retainers to screw the pedals down square right? just use a little locktite on the screws

i don't want to see that much more, so keep your clothes on gary.....

sheerider1026 has a complete, low hour cub topend, including pistons, domes, head, etc....800 bucks, just bolt on and go

i know what your talking about, but i've seen alot of bearings wear the shaft out by spinning in other aplications

definately check those reeds. get us pics if you can. did you remove the center support rib? try flipping them. if you have reed spacers on the cylinder side, try them on the carb side.

ok, lets hear everyones opinion of his behavior in the shout. it's really pissin me off.

yah, those are the idle screws for the3 stock carbs when you remove the tors caps. and, that's not the right way to to a plug chop. you get it up to operating temp by ridding around, then stop at a strait stretch and put in new plugs right away. start it, and instantly run it through all the gears, or as many as you can wot, (10seconds minimum) and pull the clutch and kill it and roll/brake to a stop without letting the engine tun over. change the plugs again and go read those ones. the point is to get the reading by only runnung on the mains. if you do a search, you can find the writups on how to do a plug chop, and read.