AKheathen

your jetting should be about the same, but i would start a chop with 1 size larger main to account for environmentals

what kind of port?

haha, you said "predetonation".....sorry, i had to. that is a made-up word.....it's just deto....

cyls... 140 shipped buy it now with head, and other stuff

haha, you have no excuse.........standard idle screws,ha! f a i l ! ! ! ! !

i just use fibreglass insulation. they have project pack for cheap. just 2 wraps of masking tape to hold it on the core, and it will release later

cool beans...you start another post in repairs?

daym........you might want to move to higher octane fuel than that untill you can get your cr and dynamic compression verified safe for 100oct.

this may have something to do with it..... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=122543

actually, detonation is when fuel ignites, or explodes on the hot surfaces, whereas preignition is where the fuel ignites from heat and compression alone, not nesicarily on the surface. even though, the result is pretty much the same- excessive heat. ....i'm leaning tward swquish issues. it doesn't appear from the pics, that there is the minimum 1.5mm extra cut from the head...also the angle might not be right.

oh, that's not too bad @ all. did you ever get info on what cc the chambers are now? it may be too much compression, also the squish angle/clearance will play a huge factor, and if it was milled in the past, not only will they be smaller, but one could be smaller than the other. here is what i was talking about......

x2..........never used a toaster before, but i've heard of using an oven..........heat guns work just fine. they will get it hotter than a toaster, and you don't risk burning it. most cases, when you get it hot enough, it will fall right on the shaft, which you don't have to freeze.

i would do a compression check, and do a plug chop on the chevron premium. there are 2 factors here......first, your jetting could be off just a little but, and different octane fuels can use slightly different jetting, plus, time of day will have different humdity and temp, leading to different jetting needs. also, a motor with good compression should burn premium as efficiently with premium, and low grade, where the lower grade fuel should burn a little shorter, but worn cylinders may not burn the higher octane as well, and the lower octane, burning easier, will bring back a little power. finally, the fuel rating at the pump is the minimum for what could be delivered, meaning that fresh fuel in the tanks can actually be as high as premium fuel, or higher, depending on how often that fuel is sold at that station. i have seen fuel trucks deliver premium into all the tanks, although this doesn't mean it's always done. even so, i wouldn't run higher than 93octane in a stock engine, as you need higher compression to burn higher octane fuels efficiently

get a pic of the damage to the dome. a little bit can be ok. i have a head that i removed, where one chamber had been beatten pretty good, and all around by broken a ring. it ran fine, but had a bit of a compression imballance vibration.

well, not sure you can tell much by the pic, but you can see that the wires from the pickup disappear behind the stator plate, follow a couple clips on the back and come up with the rest of the wires in the loom. the little ground loop looks like the one that you have bolted to the cylinder. it goes back by the tail light with the cdi. the voltage regulator is a little metal box about 2"x2"x1/2", and it's supposed to be plugged into a blue wire, which actually comes off the yellow stator wire in the harness. that little red/black wire with the bullet connector next to the black wire is your keyswitch wire, which should either be connected to your keyswitch, or connected to each-other for the ignition to work. you need to pull your timing plate off to get the wires connected to the pickup. so, you are saying that you had spark before? or did you get it like this and just now hooking everything up?

well, hardly any of the important questions are answered on this phone. basically, what hardware and options/features it has. it took over a month untill i could find out that it actually does have touch screen. now, it has the motion/position sensing, but how finite is that? my samsung eternity has the motion, but, either it is nothing like the iphone with it's leveling feature, or there is no avaiable apps to envoke the feature. it does read shaking, slight tilt, and invertion, but i believe most are like me and just want it to do cool things. i absolutely abhore apple, but it is hard to overlook the pupil-dialating features, even though the external speaker really sucks, among other things. also, i wonder if they sport the same builds as previous motorollas, which were nice out of the box, but highly unreliable, especially with frequent x-ray exposure. also, on the touch issue from the cheek durring calls. it is easily fixed by intuitive programing, like as my samsung comes from the box. you still have pinpoint controll, but no unintentional button pushing. however, i hav a thin-film touch membrane as opposed to the heat/synaps touch which i have personally seen prove more than it's worth in reliability and durability, greater than the glass which it operates from.

thank, you

hahahaha.......face it sammy, you got confused, and you're not gonna recoupe on sticking your foot in you're mouth. 68mm bore= blaster size=400. 400+4mm stroke = 421. had you payed attention to that, yolu wouldn't have made the 1st, and 2nd post.....you have to run a stroker crank on this setup, or it will blow less power than stock, due to the messed up timing/excessive squish/low cr.....this is a true 4mill, or it's not a 421.........just say it..."i got confused" and feel better getting it off your chest.

meaning, that those outter rings actually bolt to the inner rim and clamp the tire bead..........the real bead locks, not just bead lock style for looks. real beadlocks, and use for all the stuff would be worth the 500, but i never take a deal unless i would pay full price for it new. of coarse, you could sell the unneeded stuff on ebay......

well, that varies from build to build. but, .050-.055 is a nice, conservative/safe squish, whereas some push smaller than .030 and you get piston slap below .020. generally, you shoot around .035-.045. what size domes you run, or you have a cut stock head?

so, no pitting, on the other? what's the squish?

bump......plus, you should be taking a second look again, if you're still riddin, now that winter has hit....+1-2 sizes

umm, is it cool there? that's absolutely normal for the first minuet or more on a cold motor. that's the time you warm it up on the choke, and finish putting your gear on. it should go back to normal when it warms up. i would check the mains if it has cooled off lately.

that's not from running rich. what was your squish? what is the dome size? ported, spacer plate, or cut domes? what does the other side look like? could've developed an airleak somewhere

heat up the hub real good, put the wheel hub nut on the endwith a socket on it. set it on the concrete, and beat the carrier down......it should pop off, or at least start moving........at least you know the splines aren't worn out.