AKheathen

yah, i'm building a 4mill with maxloads in the center, as you need to rebuild the crank in order to replace them, and an outter bearing failure puts alot of leverage on the centers, that could force you to have to replace them as well. if you are worried about the binding, there is a twin row self-alligning bearing in the same 305 series. it's made for just that purpose, but not much side loading. search for the 1305 vxb bearing.

did you clean the powervalves? stuff can gum up pretty quick, especially if the jetting is off or having oil issues

just curious, but what's your squish?

ah, i see.....you might have shared some of this info earlier.........now, are you talking about floating the inner race of the bearings on the crank? thereare much better options than that....

not sure you would gain anything by placing c-clips and grooves on the bearing, as they are intended for side loading, like the pto bearing. if you want a tighter fit, simply apply a light film of retaining compound to the bearings, so nothing squeezes out. the o-rings are soft and the little groove would not produce the desired results like something solid would, and only relieve pressure. i was just explaining why the orings are used.

the chokeside carb bowl has a little brass bead on the outside of the float bowl. if it's on the wrong carb, the choke doesn't work, so it may be reall hard to start cold, but not hurt performance. when you replace the float needles, check your float height

is it normall for the powervalves to hang down like that?

the main piont that they use the oring is so that the can run the same genaric bearing with the snapring groove on all 4, instead of having the aplication specific bearings manufactured with the locating pin. you can get the snaprring, and plain bearings @ a real good discount since they are made in mass quantities for hundreds of aplications @ once. it's safe to say that they are paying $3 or less for them, as opposed to at leas 2x as much just for the pin style. the o-ring is just there to help keep it from spinning and wearing the case.

..and is the shrade valve @ the tip of the hose, too. you may be off by more than 5psi, if you figure that 1cc will give 10-15 psi, or more. i would just try bumoping the octane to 95 or more and see what happens, and get your getting rich, as lean will cause deto, just by itself.

.......and run the proper octane..lol

u get the paypal i sent?

and i run 360-330, depending on temp/elevation, etc.... i don't know exactly what combination, but i've seen about 1/3 of people having to jet high for the pro-circuits, including myself, so that's why i suggest starting 340 for the setup/conditions

you must be pushing @ least 160psi with +4....may be deto..... we only get 90 oct. premium, since they got rid of ethenol in the gas all together. i mix with 100ll avgas

no, they are not.........they are 5kohm(5,000) resistors that can read around 15k ohm. the one that reads nothing is shot, and you need to get good connection so it doesn't jump around. make sure you have a good battery in the meter, too

lean will sound a bit zingy, and, if you're @ higher rpm's, itwill seem to drop off as you push the throttle further tward wot

mine went from a bit of play to really freakin worn out pretty quick, like 6 hurs of trail riddin. check out the axle splines vs the hub splines. if the axle is still good, i would replace the hub to save the axle.....a tiny bit of play is ok, though

all i run with is 4pokes, and i usually have to wait for them to catch up. usually through tight woods, and runs through the mud real well. not as deep lug as vampires, and the pic doesn't do it justice as what the really look like....kenda bear claw also, check into super swampers

haha, the lazy ass dealers up here left the 200's in and you'd be lucky to have the 190, 210, and 220 in the toolkit

wtf? says who? it's just a piece of metal. you have to install it correctly and secure. there are more people running them problem free on here than people not running them.

yah, just get 21's.

even though the stator is new, you shold check the gap and see if water is getting in there. water can cause issues pretty quick. that's also within normal useage. mild builds can use a tank from 1-3 hours......3hours is kind of uncommon though. that's based on pump, and you usually run higher octane richer than pump. you may want to replace the spark plug caps, if they are old

did you get in to check your stator gap, and ohm out your stator? weak spark and misfires can lead to excessive fuel use, because no all the fuel is being burned. blown out silencer packing and exhaust leaks can also lead too excessive low rpm fuel consumption, so check into that. check your jetting when done. adjust your needles and pilots to run good on a warmmed up engine.

actualy, won't lowering it throw the toe out? large amount of toe out will make it want to grab in either direction. as said, a little toe out will do you good(1/16"-1/8" wider @ the front of the tires) i belive the 3" would bring your camber pretty close to neutral, too.

i would strongly recomend truing it first. like i said, i wasn't tying to offend. we get the same questions from the average joe. just set yourself the jig and go to town....

oh, damn, i just saw this. i have the same dv9000. they really are victoms of heat from both the shitty graphics, and charging circuit. the beating on it will eventually kill power on the motherboard. give it a good flex on the body once in a while......i just upgraded mine with better graphics, hdmi, improved cooling, dual hd's etc...... for the warrenty one, i would have just poped the hard drive out real quick, via the hd door, go out to your car, start it up, and run as much juice as you can.lights, etc....hold the hard drive up to the alternator for a few seconds, and it's done. reinstall, and "click...click...click.......................click...click......" that's it. the winding field is alot stronger than a magnet, as far as wiping a hard drive.