AKheathen

and, the inner chamfer on the rings are facing upwards, right?

are you leaking any fuel out of the left carb? iss th left pipe plugged up? are you getting good blue spark on the left?

well.......there is a couple things that i can see....first, it does look like a detonation induced break of the ring land, which i have seen before in a case of spark scatter (had a distrobutor issue) but, the thing is that it is mostly broke @ the exhaust port, plus that little chip in the transfer. the piston appears a little frosted, which indicates thaat the crown was running a little hot. next, is the cylinder bore. it looks like you may have a bit of excessive clearance, and they are glazed/scored pretty good for a break-in. 2 things to check out. the piston clearance by using a bore mic, and caliper mic. and the port chamfers. if you can show both the clearance and lack of port chamfer, you may just have a case for judge judy, lol get some better pics please.

well, 2 things---- the stator could have been on it's way out already, giving you weak spark, which messes with your jetting, and can make you chase your tail. stators don't just go out from getting wet, but getting them wet can start, or extenuate a failure. 2nd, your float/ float needles can be loading up the fuel delivery, and make you think it's jetted rich....you know something's wrong when a 25 pilot is too big.

x2....pro-circuits give you an unbelievable midrange, and long gears..... the reeds are more topend suited, but the carbs will really kill you. on a stock stroke midrange engine, you wouldn't want to go any bigger than 30mm or you will loose all that low and mid power.

well, that comes out to 20.25mm, so you are a cunthair shy of the 21-22mm measurement, if i remember right. you have to measure it without the gasket, though, and no pressure on the floats, just gravity, holding the carbs upside-down. you simply bend the little tab that the float needle rests on to adjust

yah, i would star at least 2 sizes, then do a proper plug chop, and that will tell you where you are @ on the mains. then work the needles to get the 1/4-3/4 throttle set, then the pilots/airscrews. remember, all adjustments are for a hot engine.

good point......i always ratchet the swinger to the bumper to compress it all the way, then set the chain tight. another thing to look @ is if it has any sort of shifting querks. could be the bearing on the other end of the output shaft. also, if it was not machined right, it could be miss-alligned.

if that pin has mooved at all, that part of the crank is done, due to the fact that it has released due to side play. i have a stock crank, that has moved a 1/16" and it is going in the trash as soon as i pull the rods. however, i believe it was the flywheel side that is bad, and the pto side is still good/useable. pm me if you are interested in it.

oh, boy......you are gonna want to check on those rings for sure. come up with a complete list of the flow setup, like what pipes, carbs, filte3r swetup (including weather you are running airbox/lid/snorkel, ridding temps, and elevation, and porting, if any, and start a post in jetting. sounds like you are lean and/or have an airleak

what you have is a webbing separation, and it most llikely will not hold again, due to the twisting/rocking motion in the bore.

perhaps you should list all the mods.......of, coarse you are gonna want the reed and base gaskets......not sure why you would need the lightened flywheel. perhaps you may want to up the stator watts, update the impellar/gear. pankake bearing, in case he accidentally holds the clutch in too much....pto bearing. i would strongly suggest the tors removal, as it not only makes jetting 100x easier, but relieves alot of strain on the rubber intakes, which might need replacing. if you are getting your bore/hone locally, make sure it's bored to the pistons, and that there is still port chamfers.........oh, and don't forget the boost bottle

and you may want to make sure your reeds can flow enough to keep up with the carbs. i'm thinking 30's should be enough too keep up with the topend decently, without sacrificing mid and low.

well, if you have the means to fab this up, then ditch the swingers altogether, aside from the pivot tubes, and fab it from scratch. metal supply shops have a decent range of transpotable stock in the scrap bin/yards. just get some squarestock, tube, plate, or whatever you need and start fabing. you are going to want to shorten the main swinger considerably, since it will give alot more traction, and your design eliminates the normal shortfall of trying not to roll backwards. mabey use a trunion style aux. swinger and tensioner for the chain. as for track parts, look into mattraxx systems. good luck

same thing for any flow mod, which allso includes your snorkel, airbox lid, temps, elevation, porting, etc....

wow, 3 turns is pretty lean on the airscrews. with a 25, you should be 2 turns or less. do you have the airbox/lid/snorkel installed? if not, you are probably pretty lean on the mains. are your carbs cleaned out good? fresh fuel?

well, it's the automatic settings of this section. threads get deleted due to inactivity. it makes sense, though.......the point of the roosing room is to let off steam, and if you're not talking about it anymore, then you are done venting.....i have seen old threads revived though. i belive if you have a link to the deleted thread, and then reply, it comes back.

just an idea..........if you still have a keyswitch, there is an unused circuit there that you can wire to the charger.....have to check to make sure it works the same, can't remember..

ttt

by overflow, i mean the drain screw hose, on the bottom of the bowl, not the ones on the sides.....just verifying. it would have to be more than just a little bit leaking to get up into the cylinders, and the hose on the bottom would be steady draining at the same time, unless it was plugged. try cleaning out the float needle, and check the height and that the float will move freely. also, the float itself can get stuck, so you tap the bowl with a screwdriver to stop it.

i belive it would have to be the 660, if it works. 700 should be new design. you can always ask a guy sellin on ebay on some specs.

ooh, interested.......more info please.....i also know of at least 1 more person also interested. pm me, thanx, heath h.

x2...and i'm not reading through that big copy/paste looking post that i just skimmed through. yes, it is a capacitance discharge ignition, but it does have limitations, just like a battery. it will only store the rated amount of energy, with a little room to spare. that amount of energy is, however, much less than what the stock stator will produce under normal operation, and it bypasses, or shorts the excess, much like the voltage regulator does. when you begain trying to boost the power from the stator, it only has to dispose of that much more current, excessively straining the cdis' pcb and transistors. once that circuit reaches the point of max capacity, it not only bulds heat/resistance, but starts tearing down the capacitors, and you eventually end up with dry connections, diminished spark capacity, etc....for exaple, ricky stator has begain overwinding the ignition side of their stators, as is evident by the different readings, and you can find plenty of info on thier problems. if you want greater spark energy, you have to do as previously mentioned and replace the cdi with one like a dyna, which has a greater storage capacity and delivery circuits, and/or install a better coil. both of which simply utilize more of the abundant energy from the good old factory stator windings. ok, i lied....i just read it........you seem to have swept all thaught of curent under the rug, and sound about 30years behind the times.......i have personally felt 90,000v from a 12v ignition coil powered by an ecu, as well as the 35k, 40k, 60k, etc from many different ignition systems. i would, however not bet my life or take any chances on a 300v injector circuit, as it delivers actuall tangable amounts of current. and, i dare you to find a coil that sticks to the 100:1 ratio. that figure is just used as an example to show the math, not the literal rating. the thing about the higher energy coils, such as the nology coils is the sheer current it is capible of passing to maintain the higher voltage through the copleted circuit, which is the reason it includes the proprietary grounding strap following the wires...........since the development of the "micro" components in the late 80's all of the most common problems, mainly changed value, have all but disappeard, leaving only the issues of voltage spiking and physical damage, but that's another subject.

once again, they are factory toyota connectors, and you can buy them from toyota @ a reasonable price.......in fact, i think it's tho only thing that you can get from toyota at a fair price.......i've posted in the past, but, if i remember, the round style is pre-'89 toyota pickup/4runner engine compartment, and the squared connectors are 89 to ?? engine compartment connectors. deutsch connectors are nice, to an extent, but i have found that they do not age and weather well over time, but last untill you need to disconnect them. gm weatherpack connectors are a nice alternative, that seems to last a bit longer, too, but are kind of bulky, and you may need the special sleeve tool to remove the terminals from the connector, depending on which style you get. oh, and dielectric terminal grease ftw!........you will thank yourself when you have to unplug it 7 years down the road

well, you might ba able to match the terminals up @ radio shack, and get the plugs from toyota, but you might get better prices online. you will have to buy terminal crimpers that fit the wire/terminals