AKheathen

actually, it looks like it was cut in a jig by a program.....

yah, you forgot the 2 most common in the poll..........engine ice ansd watter wetter. that being said, i use dexcool (prestone) it actually has more lubricating properties than the aatv special coolants. when you rub it between your fingers, it actually feels like motor oil. plus, it's the only one that actually works in sub-zero temps. protection to sub-ero doesn't nescicarily mean that it will stay liquid. i ran through all the green and mixed compatibility coolants, and they would slush up around -10f. dexcool was the only one that actually stayed in liquid form past -30f. the protection point is just where it becomes a complete solid and expands. don't know why, but it would also actually overheat when it was slush. biggest think is to make sure your coolant stays in good condition, whatever you use....

idk, but you need that green/white and red/white wire hooked to the pickup to tell it to spark. also, make sure the harness is grounded @ the back of the frame where the voltage regulator mounts.

interesting.......

umm........your pickup coil wires are chopped @ the stator. you may want to put a new spade connector on the coil, too

i run gm auto trac II, for the cold. seems to work good and stay clean so far.....

are you sure tey are real beadlocks?

actually, what it looks like to me, is that some of that paint that has been flaking off your intake got balled up in the case and smeared on the rod. it'ds the little black specs all over your crank. as stated, i would just check out all your clearances. a little heat could of been expected from the friction.

well, if it made it more than 5min of dune riddin ok, then it sounds either electrical, or overheating. check your jetting and folw/condition of your coolant first. if you're not lean and have good cooant/flow, then move to checking out your electrical. ohm stator, replace caps, etc. your flywheel could be a little loose, too

once again, the "duncan" head doesn't exist........it's a ptr powerhead, and the same as a regular noss/charriot coolhead, as far as domes are concerned

as mentioned before, you are pretty close already, and i would start your first proper plug chop with the current jetting

oh, yah, you're right, beacause i had such a problem running less than 100oct. with the same setup............wait, that wasn't me....that's right, i ran 20cc's on 90. provided that you're not running lean, you can run small as 19's on 93. running 95oct is my safe side, since it's easy for me to just mix 50/50. you can go higher if you want, but you will loose power. also, what is your squish? that can make a difference on deto, too

hmm, that boston looks damn sexy. how much for the equipment in the last pic? she is HOTT!!!

what mess are you talking about in the cylinders and exhaust? sludge? carbon deposits?

you are allowed 1psi drop in 6min. 6psi for 6min is ideal, though. it will be fine to install the mods later. all they do is help it shift easier.

x2, i already asked that question. they had that in mind when making the gear, and included a "failsafe" into the gear.

they fire @ the same time

yah, those washers can cause a huge problem.....they hold the emultion tube in place, which mixes air with the fuel from the main jet

oh, well, in that case............ what's your elevation?

ok, look at it this way. when you move from tdc to bdc, you are adding thd displacement to the trapped or compressed volume, which is chamber, minus dome, put simply, so the fomula is the same on both sides. 16.5 compressed, plus 175 displacement. this is just the way iut is, not my own special way of doing it. it's the plain and simple math. taught to everyone in school, not word-of-mouth formula. it does, hoerver matter when you get down to the cusp of octane requirements. you could be holding back on that one degree of timing, or .010" of squish that could bring you a little more power that you are looking for, but are otherwise trying to stay safe.

start by turning the airscrew in 1/4 turn @ a timeand try it out. is it warmmed up when you're tuning? play with the needles for 1/4+ and pretty close to 1/8 throttle

clean all the crap out of the o-ring grooves first, then lube it with spit and install with pressure

wtf?

no, you are forgetting the dome (-5.5) still exists at the bottom of the stroke. it would be 175+[22+(-5.5)]=175+16.5=191.5.......then, 191.5/16.5=11.6/1, or, 11.6:1, not 11.9:1. once again, you're not gonna have the cylinders @ 175, anyways, so using the "350cc" rating won't really work unless you are @ the bore that gives just the 1cc to bring it to a 350cc

well, you are forgetting to subtract the piston crown from the dome size on both sides of the equation, and factor the extra volume of the overbore and then you will have your uccr, which will be alot higher than conventional engines. now, how are you calculating the density and heating?