firebanshee

If you put the 4mil crank in and put the cylinders on with factory base plate gaskets, then put the pistons at the bottom of the stroke and mark the cylinders at the transfer ports(which should be 2mm lower) then take the cylinders back off and lower the windows of the transfer ports down to the mark(2mm). Then when the cylinders are back on with the base gasket the top of the piston should be even with the bottom of the transfer ports when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke.Even if you dont lower your ports it will still run decent(ALOT BETTER THAN WITH A SPACER) Then put cut domes on and that will give you pretty good power until you can afford to get it ported.Putting a 4mil crank in is like raising your ports up 2mils if you don't use a base gasket, so your motor will also make more power by adding more displacement and by changing your port timing. If you use a base gasket under the cylinder then it would be like raising your ports 4mils which is too much and your motor will not run right. Using a head spacer won't throw off timing they can leak and mess with your comp and squish band.

You will have to get your cylinders bored to match the pistons. If you are on the stock size bore and are going to buy pistons for it without getting it bored then you will need to buy cast pistons, because your banshee came with cast and the piston to cylinder wall clearance is different between cast and forged pistons. If you are getting it bored then i would by forged pistons. If your cylinders are scored up or egg shaped or tapered then you will need it bored. I would rather get it bored if it were mine so i could run the forged pistons.

If the stoker kit only accepts standard pistons then it is probably a short rod stoker(110mm)connecting rod, which is standard lenght for a banshee. I would get the long rod(115mm)this crank takes a 795 series piston. The longer rod puts a better working angle on the crank and less side load on the piston skirts and are ALOT more reliable. I have ran short rod cranks before they rev up a little quicker but i broke alot of piston skirts.

I would throw that spacer plate as far as you possibly can. It throws off your or timings throws of squish bands and compression. You need to get cut stroker domes and just put a base gaset on. This will make your motor come ALIVE. If you don't have a cool head you can even get you stock head rechamber for the stroke. they cut 2mm(.080) out of the dome or the head to allow for the piston coming up out of the cylinder. You will never get the full potential out of that motor with a plate.IMO

I am building a new drag bike and my frame is set up with no rear brake lever. The frame is set up to use your front brake mastercylinder and lever mounted on the handle bars to control the rear brake. Have any of you guys tried this set up very much and did you like it? I am use to using a rear lever, how is it to stage and launch with this set up? Can't decide if i want to fab on a rear lever or get use to the hand brake

so 18cc at 5000ft would be 145.

Sea Level 1000' 2000' 3000' 4000' 5000' 18cc 197 178 171 170 165 145 19cc 183 167 160 158 152 137 20cc 169 156 149 146 140 129 21cc 156 145 138 134 128 121

You should take it to were you are going to have the work done and let them see how much it will take to clean up the cylinders.

Any word?

Yes, i think you would overheat with 66.5mm bore

X3 REDLINE

I liked my 21cc domes, good torque and good over-rev.

Twist throttles are for dirt bikes.

You cut every other window out were the dog engauges so you have 3 big windows instead of 6 small ones.

No really those are some NICE tits.

I like REDLINE but all the site builders do a good job.

You could take pics of the intake and the bottom so you can see how much they opened up the transfer ports on the bottom. You need to take measurements to see how much the transfers have been raised and the exhaust has been raised. Also try to get a pic of the exhaust port so you can see what shape it is.

That size of piston is 100 over do they make that in a 795 series piston? I am not sure. You need a 795 series for the long rod crank. Why are you boring your cylinders over that far? You should bore them just enough to clean up the cylinders. Don't bore them that big to try to gain CCs. If you bore them that big you could also have overheating issues. I thought the 795s came in .080 over max which is 66mm but not sure on that without special ordering them.

I think you would need CPI,SHEARER,ROCKETS,FAT BASTARDS, with a port job to match the pipe to come close to your goal.imo

Sounds like ALOT of fun

Your porting will affect your static compression, that is why it was said that you need to calculate it. If you have an aggressive port job then when you kick it over your motor will not show that much compression, but when your motor is running and is in the pipe your compression will go up. So kicking your bike over with a compression guage is not that accurate but it gives you a baseline. There are alot of threads reguarding what compression guages work best do a search on this. 100LL is AV GAS (airplane fuel) you can get it from some airports not all airports will sell it to the public. The LL means low lead.

It should put the port timing back were it should be.

Once you have it adjusted properly (you can check it with the cover off) i don't see the need to adjust it on the fly.

Why would you want to run a gnarly pipe with that set up ?

The cub has a VERY peaky powerband out of the box.