firebanshee

Yea, that should work good. :cool:

I like to put that copper coat sealer on the stock head gasket before i put it on. Or just put a coolhead on :biggrin:

Gear your bike down alittle, and put in bigger pilot jets :cool:

That sucks.

I say put a cub cylinder on it, but i like to race alot :cool:

I think that kit in the link looks pretty good, i made the one that i use out of my old petcock from when i put my dual pingal on. I also used a fuel tank off of an old weed eater and some fuel line. I broke a connecting rod one day racing out at the hill and forgot to drain my carbs,when i went to put my bike back together i took my bowls off of my carbs and you wouldn't belive all the nasty looking crap and green corrosion looking stuff in them.It is very important to purge your bike cause it will also corrode your bearings.I purge mine after every day of riding.

The new challenger is AWSOME! I would buy the auto and put a shift kit in it. :cool:

Oh no is that a boost bottle i see, just kidding :biggrin: Good luck with your build. :cool:

Thats some funny shit oh i mean poop. :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

Make sure you have fuel in the tank and don't need to put it on reserve. If you do have fuel in it you can pull off the fuel hose and see if it flows out at the pet cock, if it does you could crack open the screws on the float bowls and see if you have fuel there.

Your pro circuit pipes are going to need huge carbs, and for trail and woods riding you don't want big carbs, you could go a little bigger on the carbs but i would not go a whole lot more unless you plan on future mods that would require bigger cabs.+4 on the timing would be really safe with 93 octane fuel.

I didn't think it was possible to change main crank seals without splitting the cases.I don't see how it could be.

Sounds like it could also be a worn or bent shift fork, either way if you don't see something under the clutch cover you will need to pull it apart. Sounds like you shouldn't have any trouble, it's not that hard once you get to rippen and tearing :biggrin:

The shift star mod were you grind down the high peaks on the star to make it shift easier.

My boy had a hopped up blaster that started pulling head studs and i tried helicoils to fix it and the studs would keep working themself loose, i put in timeserts and never had any more problems. But i have also used helicoils with no problems but i think time serts are stronger.

Did you get the slides to the carbs mixed up ?

AMEN! you are absolutely RIGHT, Geckos SUCK, They are the worst tire EVER!

Are your TORS still hooked up and your parking brake switch still hooked up?

For the kind of riding you are doing i think they are a great pipe.This time of year i think a you should be around a 320 on the main for pods, and i usually run a 27.5 pilot.and around 1.5 to 2 on the air screws.

What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^ :biggrin:

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!

Advancing your ignition timing starts the burn earlier in your cylinder it doesn't make the piston go down any sooner. If you advance your timing too much the piston will have to fight to get up to the top of it's stroke causing it to ping and a loss of power. When you advance your timing and have it set properly for the kind of fuel you are running it burns the fuel more efficiently and gets the most energy out of it. A higher quality fuel takes longer to burn but it is a more controlled burn, so you can get away with advancing your timing more with a higher quality fuel and bump your compression more. If you advance your timing to far with a low quality fuel it will finish it's burn before the piston gets to the top of the stroke.

If you are running a lid on your air box then the jetting sounds pretty close.It sound like you got a good bike to build it in any direction you want to go with it.It just depends on what kind of riding you are mainly going to do with it. I would buy a cool head(i would not get a pro design you have to change head studs if you do) and bump the compression up on it and advance the timing. To stay on pump gas at sea level you would want a 21cc dome and advance your timing to +4 deg and lose the air box lid if you have one, and put a k&n filter on it (you need an adapter to run a filter without a lid on it) or go to pod filters. If you change filters then you will have to re jet. Oh ya if you still have the TORS on the bike you should get a kit and remove them (those big ugly things on top of the carbs) Just my 2 pennies. :cool:

I would just buy the CPI then and then you won't have to buy anymore pipes and they perform well even with your current setup. :cool:

And i have a bike with pods and toomey needles and t-5s and i run a 330 main at sea level, and it runs really well :biggrin: