firebanshee

Amen DO NOT buy gekos they are about the worst paddle ever made.

I do not know your elevation, but at sea level i think you should be at a 330 on the main and start on the middle clip on the needle and 27.5 pilot and around 1 3/4 turns on the air screw. You should also advance your timing to 4 deg it will help with bog and it is free power you can buy a plate or use a dremel and slot your factory one, you will love the timing mod. :cool:

I prefer v force, don't buy a boost bottle they add no power and they will rip your intake boots. You will notice a big difference with good reeds.Boysen reeds on stock cages work good also and don't cost as much as v force, i just like the v force. :cool:

No, you should be good if you were jetted right before. :cool:

I don't think you blew your bike from being lean, you were probably detonating. With a 68mm bore and 22cc domes you were running way to low on your octane.You should be mixing 93 octane with race fuel.Your jetting on that set up should be around 155 on the main and 55 pilot jet with a cel needle. What do your plugs look like?

I would start at a 340 mains and and go from there you should end up at 330 or a 320 and 27.5 on the pilot,start with the needle on the middle clip and around 13/4 to 2 turns on the air screws. :cool:

You won't be dissapointed with a 4mill, it will pull alot harder and you should be able to pull a taller gear.

Is it the dowel that goes under the shift star that locks it to the shift drum?

Thanks for the input, any info helps, and it looks like both you guys have your bikes set up well for drag racing,thanks again. :cool:

If you take off your lid than you will need to bump your main jets up, 290's seem small for CPI's , i would run an outerwear no matter what with a K&N so sand or mud don't get stuck in the pleats of the filter.

It all depends on your elevation, if you are at sea level then you are on that fine line being bored .040 over and running your timing at +5. If you are above sea level than no worries.

Your sig says you have a 2 into 1 set up on the carb, and t-5s are a mid to top end pipe, not a good match. Just my 02 cents.

NO such thing as too old :cool:

Everyone is entitled to there opinion and i respect yours, but i do belive that automatic transmissions have way more moving parts and way more clutch packs in them than a banshee or any other quad has. Do you realize how much heat and abuse a automatic transmission takes, a torque converter alone makes about the same heat as a engine makes because they work by shearing oil.I have seen automatic transmissions go 100,000 + miles without changing the fluid although you shouldn't do this, so i don't think you shouldn't question the quality of ATF fluid it just comes down to personal preference. I also use ATF in my dune bikes not just my drag bike.

I have had the same thing happen to me on a couple of my bikes and i found that if you take off the radiator cover and put foam around the outside edge of the radiator (i use the foam tape with a sticky edge) then when you put your cover back on it fills in the gap between the radiator and the cover and forces the air to go through the radiator and not around it. Air will take the path of least resistance, this has worked well for me. :cool:

I am going to try a wheelie bar on my bike at Albany sand drags, i was wondering how far off the ground i should set the wheel off the ground for the best traction and launch? My bike is lowered to about 4 inches off the ground and i run shocks and not struts.

If your domes have that dull sand blasted look on the out side edges of the dome on the squish band then you are detonating causing the o rings to fail. Are your spark plugs rattling loose also?

I use type F transmission fluid, it has good lubricating qualities and grabbing agents built in it so your clutches don't slip.

I would use water wetter and i like type f atf in my trans.

Just buy a 4 mill cub cylinder then you don't need it ported and it will be set up for the crank and make exelent power.

There is no downside

I would start at 340s but i think you will end up at 330s, needle in the middle and 27.5 pilot.

I had a set of T-4s with a 4mil short rod and 34 carbs and an aggeressive port job and they did not work well. They fell on there face at higher rpms. I went to t-5s and they worked ALOT better. My t-4s worked ok with a stock stroke crank but t-5s work WAY better. CPIs would work the best for inframes.

Check your spark plug boots, could have blown resistor.

If you have a stroker it is way worth it, make sure you have it trued and welded or rewelded when you are done. :cool: