firebanshee

I hope so cause the guys that made my pipes seem like a good group of guys that is why this post kinda suprised me. I would not spread any kind of bad advertisement or rumors to anyone about anyone unless ALL my facts were straight. :cool:

Well, you just added alot more air with your new filter, if it were me i would run with no lid and would start at 320 main jet 27.5 pilot and middle clip on the needle and about 1.5 to 2.0 on the air screw and put in new plugs and do a plug check. Should be a light golden brown color. You might have to drop to smaller mains until it runs right and the plug checks right, DO NOT ride it the way it is you WILL burn it up.

Is this the same company that made your a arms?

I still do mixed drinks 1 part oil 40parts alky :biggrin:

Then if he is talking about A arms that wasn't built by this company Wicked atv motor sports link then my bad ? Link to exhaust on same site 2 stroke exhaust link on same site If he is talking about a arms made by someone other than these guys than i wan't to know. I am a HUGE fan of customer support after a product has been purchased.

Yep,

You should call them back and tell them about what happend and tell them you had to go get a brand new part fixed and see what they do about it, it will show if it is a bad employee or a bad company. I am running there pipes and i am kinda intrested what kind of core values this company has. And trust me alot of people ask me about there product i wonder what my answer should be?

I think that would be a very good starting point, with needle on middle clip. You should land somewhere between 300 - 330. :cool:

or get yourself some afflack. :woot: :yelrotflmao: :woot: :yelrotflmao: :woot: :yelrotflmao: :woot: :yelrotflmao: :woot: :yelrotflmao: :woot: :yelrotflmao:

Low compression can also cause these symptoms, might not hurt to check. But like stated in a prior post rolling your bike through with the choke on and the ignition off does help ALOT your jetting doesn't seem that far off to me, you are on the rich side of things with the main circuit and needles but that's not a bad thing. You could try bumping your pilot up to 30 but i always have used a 27.5 with no problems.

You should start your motor and let it go through a couple of heat cycles and then retorque the head, then after you ride it you could double check the torque.Just my thoughts. I know some guys that had good luck with those vito power pistons as long as your cylinder is not allready ported, you can jet a little fatter during break in just to be safe and it is colder this time of year.

The motor didn't come stock with 19cc domes but it take that was probably a typo ? I like t-5s for a good all round dune pipe if you are not into ALOT drag racing even though t-5s do good dragging but there are better choices, i guess it all comes down to what kind of ridding you want to do the most of. :cool:

Well you ask people to talk you out of getting a 2 into 1, then it seems you don't like the responce. A banshee motor with bumped up compression and advanced timing and the right port job and pipes with dual carbs with out perform the 2 into 1 in every aspect. Once you get it dialed in you shouldn't have to tune it all the time so i don't understand the whole easier to tune thing.

You probably have a blown head gasket, it pressurizes the cooling system with compression when you kick it over, were is it leaking from?

Yep :cool:

Yep. :cool: You should advance your timing +4 while you have your flywheel off it makes a HUGE difference and it is free if you slot your own stator or you can buy one for 35$

As you said in your other post your flywheel rattles when you shake it, BAD flywheel NO spark.

YES, your magnets are broken and without your magnets no sparky sparky.

As stated in the prior post a factory banshee cylinder is not nickasil (nickle plated), but aftermarket mono block cylinders are nickle plated alot of the time, like a cub is nickle plated, and so are alot of the others but, not all of them.

I would run a 13-41 and see how you like it, Geko tires are the absolute worst paddle tire i have ever seen, i think a good set of nobbies would work better. I like the straight paddle haulers the best but the sand stars work ok.

With that elevation that make sense :cool: MERRY XMAS I wan't to go there and ride some day i heard it is AWESOME.

NOSS, is a sight sponser you can see the banner on top of the page sometimes he probalbly could set you up, or alot of people use JEFF from FAST or KEVIN from HERR, or any motor builder that offers in house machine work can re cut the domes you have. I use a local shop here in Oregon, Redline Racing, and i have also bought some from Trinity that were pre cut. 17 is a pretty small dome you must be running straight race fuel or alky. Are you building a CUB motor or a STOCK cylinder motor CUBS don't need cut domes. Some kits say you can run a spacer plate instead of cut domes but it throws the port timings and durations off and you will not get near the power with plates i would not use a plate on a 4mil.

This might be a useful link check it out. Banshee electrical facts click on me

795 series pistons are not stroker pistons they are long rod pistons,the wrist pin, or piston pin which ever you call it is moved up 5mils to compenstae for the 115mil lenght connecting rod. People just usually run longer rods when they go stroker to help stop the side loading on the pistons, long rods are the right choice for strokers because the longer stroke amplifies the side loading on the piston and the longer rod changes the working angle to help stop this. The cut domes are to compensate for the crank pin off set to make the longer stroke.A 4mil crank has the crank pin offset out 2mils,so you gain to mils on the top of the stroke and you gain 2mils on the bottom giving you a total of 4mils.So if you are stroking a STOCK cylinder the piston will come out of the top of the cylinder 2mils (.080) so you need to cut your dome that much or your piston will hit your dome. If you are building a CUB motor that is set up for a stroker crank they have allready compesated for the stroke so the piston would not come out of the cylinder so you would not need to cut your domes but you would still need a 795 series piston if you had a long rod crank. I have a big bore cub 68mil, which is the same size as a blaster that is bored out .080 and the blaster comes from the factory with a 115mil lenght connecting rod and the banshee comes with a 110mil lenght rod,so i just use blaster pistons in my banshee since i have a long rod crank.

Have you swapped the plug wires to see if the problem follows the wire cause it doesn't matter what wire goes on what plug.This would help you diagnose the problem.