firebanshee

I would NOT by a pro design cool head.You have to change all your head studs if you do and they have way to many orings to leak from, there are alot of other brands out there that use the pro design style domes they are good heads.There are so many domes sizes and designs out there that you need to by the ones that suit your needs.Who ever you decide to by your head from will steer you in the right direction on which dome selection to make. If you are at sea level and want to run 93 octane fuel and +4 on your timing then you should run a 21cc dome, anything smaller than that you will need to start running higher octane fuels.

You are right, i found this info online, i have only used the 100LL (low lead) wich really has alot of lead in it compared to auto standards, it gives your plugs kind of a grey color. Avgas properties and varieties Gasoline used for aviation fuel generally has two numbers associated with its octane rating. Examples of this include the (now almost completely unavailable) 80/87 avgas, and the 100/130 avgas. The first number indicates the octane rating of the fuel tested to "aviation lean" standards, which is similar to the Motor Octane Number (MON) rating given to automotive gasoline. The second number indicates the octane rating of the fuel tested to the "aviation rich" standard, which tries to simulate a supercharged condition with a rich mixture, elevated temperatures, and a high manifold pressure. Avgas has a lower and more uniform vapor pressure than automotive gasoline, which keeps it in the liquid state at high-altitude, preventing vapor lock. The particular mixtures in use today are the same as when they were first developed in the 1950s and 1960s, and therefore the high-octane ratings are achieved by the addition of tetra-ethyl lead (TEL), a highly toxic substance that was phased out for car use in most countries in the 1980s. The main petroleum component used in blending avgas is alkylate, which is essentially a mixture of various isooctanes, and some refineries also use some reformate. Avgas is currently available in several grades with differing maximum lead concentrations. Since TEL is a rather expensive additive, a minimum amount of it is typically added to the fuel to bring it up to the required octane rating so actual concentrations are often lower than the maximum. Jet fuel is not avgas. It is similar to kerosene and is used in turbine engines. Confusion can be caused by the terms Avtur and AvJet being used for Jet Fuel. In Europe, environmental and cost considerations have led to increasing numbers of aircraft being fitted with highly fuel-efficient diesel engines; these too run on jet fuel. Civilian aircraft use Jet-A, Jet-A1 or in severely cold climates Jet-B. There are other classification systems for military turbine and diesel fuel. See Jet fuel. 100LL 100LL, spoken as "100 low lead", contains tetra-ethyl lead (TEL), a lead based anti-knock compound, but less than the "highly-leaded" 100/130 avgas it effectively replaced. Most piston aircraft engines require 100LL and a suitable replacement fuel has not yet been developed for these engines. While there are similar engines that burn non-leaded fuels, aircraft are often purchased with engines that use 100LL because many airports only have 100LL. 100LL contains a maximum of 2 grams of lead per US gallon, or maximum 0.56 grams/litre and is the most commonly available and used aviation gasoline.

I would do yourself a favor and change the stock coil wire caps that go onto the spark plugs with NGK caps, the stock ones go bad and sometimes they are tricky to diagnose.It is not a matter of if they will go bad it is a matter of when, and they only cost about $6 a piece.

The kind that i have ran here i bought at Florence airport and they call it 100 low lead, after you run it and pull your plugs it turns them a funny color because it actually has a higher lead content than normal fuel even though they call it low lead,it also has stabilizers in it for high altitude.I found that when i run it i need to jet up a little.Me and my buddies have ran this fuel alot and it works good.We use to get it for 1/2 the price as race fuel.

Jet fuel is kerosene and AV gas is the fuel you would use in prop planes.

AV gas is 100 octane that i have bought at a local air port, it is usually blue in color.

That link should do the trick :cool:

It is definitely the problem, you need to drill your carbs and install a idle screw kit,you can prob. find a cheap kit on ebay or there are guys on here that sell them. When they don't put the idle screw in they use the throttle cable to adjust the idle but you should not do this because when you turn your handle bars it will open your slides this is not safe.

Redline :cool:

Just to clarify alittle,the tors is were you would adjust the idle on a stock banshee with the big flat bladed screw on top.It is a good thing to have the TORS removed,who ever did the removal should have installed the idle screw kit.

The tors are taken off and has no idle screws,you need to get the kit and install idle screws on the carbs, you can use the search bar to research how it is done this has been covered many times on how to drill your carbs to install idle screws.

My iinframes are vito fat bastards,and when i was running race gas i used a set of 34 mikuni's, when i run alky i use 35's and cam is setting up some 39's for me so i can run at dunefest and albany.

You said you set the IDLE screws 2 turns out, i'm assuming you meant the air screws.You should not adjust your idle with your throttle cable.Have you tried turning in the idle screws a little at a time on each carb the same amount until the RPM raises.I am assuming that someone installed idle screws after they removed the TORS.

Can't you also pop off the inner seals on the bearings and install a gease zerk in your carrier tube so you can keep them greased ? I did this to my bikes that didn't have a greasable carrier.

Just for the record i live in OREGON and i would never dream of putting low to mid range pipes on my cub or small carbs or a single carb. I wanted more torque out of my cub motor so i had the cylinder decked, i didn't put the wrong pipes and carbs on it.You can set up a cub cylinder without choking it down if you set it up properly. If i remember right you can also bump up the compression in your motor to get more torque.Cant you also change your gearing so you don't fall out of the pipe as easy. I have done alot of hillshooting on the OREGON coast with a 4mil crank, 68mil cub, inframe drag pipes and 35pwk alky carbs and a 6 inch arm.

I think a hush kit is a good arrestor and it meets sound levels, i run one on my blue bike and it doesn't seem to choke it down to bad, heck toomey says they make more power, but i dont' know about that.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I would start at 350 and drop if needed i think you will be between 350-330 main 27.5 pilot middle clip on needle. About 1 and 3/4 turn on air screw should be a good starting point.

What is your elevation? at sea level you would need to at least mix 50/50, 93octane/race gas

If you are using a torque wrench you should not take feel out of the question.If you have a torque wrench that isn't calibrated properly or a cheap one and you tighten something with it you can either snap off a bolt or not get it tight enough. A faulty or low quality torque wrench can give you a false sense of security and a foot lbs torque wrench is not very accurate at low settings. I would trust and inch pounder more at these lower torque values.

I think advancing your timing is one of the easiest, least expensive, mods you can make to your bike, you should be running 93 octane fuel anyway, it is one of the first mods i like to make to a bike. + 4 is a very good starting point.

You have to split cases to change crank seals.

I use the power jack on my toy hauler, it works pretty good or a handy man jack by putting the base of the jack on the tire and jacking up something heavy.

Power valves change the ceiling height of you exhaust port depending on what rpm your motor is at, the lower rpm it lowers your ceiling height giving you more bottom end and at higher rpm it raises it giving you more top end.If you are building a drag motor you don't need power valves cause you are wide open all the time anyway, duners or trail or mx riders mainly use power valves. You can use them to drag but most people don't , they usually install block off plates instead of the valves. The valves cost more and give you no advantage on a drag bike.

I use B&M trick shift trans fluid because it is blue and looks cool :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: