firebanshee

Does it have cut domes ? if so you don't need a spacer. You are better off using cut domes :cool:

You are right i got the bug, running on a track is alot different. I made it through the second round today on the pro tree and then i broke out, i ran a 3.37 on a 4.40 dial in. They are running again on Sunday i will go back and see whay happens, i am getting use to the track, maybe i can finish in the money. :cool:

I am going to go down for a couple of day trips and race my bike at the drags, Friday and Saturday. :cool:

I went to the drags today at Albany and had a blast. This was the first time for me at a track, all my other racinig has just been out on the dunes at the hill. I ended up 4th place in my class (sport bike 2) and my fastest time was a 4.26 and i weigh 250 and have a stock frame with no front brakes and a bar with rear strut. I ran 4.40s the rest of the time. Should i expect much more out of this with my current set up? I think i will go and try the pro tree tomorrow :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

You could try new spark plug caps :cool:

Not sure what you are asking Are you talking about how much oil to mix with your fuel or how much octane is needed or jet sizes? :cool:

At sea level with pod filters and those pipes you will be around a 27.5 on the pilot and 330 on the main, try the midlle clip on the needle and around 2 turns on the air screw. You can use a dremel and modify your stock plate, but i have a cheap 35$ plate off ebay in my drag bike. :cool:

Buy a power valve set up and have the best of both worlds :cool:

Make sure that you get a dunable override and you won't have any problems, non dunable overrides take no backloading at all and are mainly for racing but dunable overrides you can ride normal without having to pull in on the clutch when you let off the throttle. There are guys on here that sell them one of them should chime in, i had mine done at Redline Racing here in Oregon. :cool:

It will be hard to shift at full power with a lock-up and no override trans, an override is one of the best mods you can do to your bike,you should use a lock-up since you will get alot of traction on asphault putting alot of load on that clutch with that new motor. :cool:

You won't regret a dunable override, i got mine cut at redline and it is one of the BEST mods i have ever done to my bike. :cool:

I wouldn't run a t-6 pipe if you gave it too me, t-5s work good on a non ported motor and also work very well on a ported motor.I used t-5s on a 4 mill stock cylinder motor and liked the way they worked, so if you get t-5s you would have alot of growing room with them for future mods. :cool:

You better hold on :biggrin: t-6s are for non ported bikes with stock cylinders, you will love your new pipes :cool:

I used a fuel tank off a old weed eater and put a petcock on the bottom of it, works good for me :cool:

You should check your reeds :cool:

No sealant needed the o ring seals it. :cool:

I have had very good luck with my stock ignition system other than the plug caps, i have heard from alot of people that you get no gain from aftermarket coils. :cool:

So you hook the top bar that would normally hook under the seat onto the swing arm also to run a rear shock ?

If it is on the right side then you have a bad crank seal, you are sucking trans fluid.

Bad spark plug caps, blown resistor in cap, replace with ngk caps. :cool:

You might also want to put foam around the inside of your rad shroud to fill that gap between the shroud and your rad so the air is forced to go through the rad and not around it. :cool:

What you say makes sence, my bar is 6'3 , 75 inches long. I think i will make a rear strut and try it, thanks for all your guys input. :cool:

Maybe you should do a major carb clean, it doesn't take much to plug a jet or a passage in a carb. :cool:

What is the best material to make a strut out of? should i use a chunk of square aluminum or something like chrome alloy tubing?