firebanshee

Yea Saints, Boo Manning, Go Steelers

I am not a fan of the singal carb set up at all, i would run the dual carbs any day. Some people like them but i do not and i have never gotten out ran by one either.

I am 6'2 235 and had a lightend flyweel on my alky bike and bogged out of the hole at times, i put a stock one back on it and now i never bog.

Yea x2 throw them all away. Make sure you pre soak your friction plates in whatever kind of oil you run. I use type F atf.

You can modify your stock timing plate with a dremel or but a one for 35$. I just run a cast one on my drag bike with no problems. Just make sure you use a good flywheel puller so you dont hurt your crank or break your magnets in your flywheel you can get them for about 12$.

You will like the +4 timing, you should be safe there, i think you will be allright with 91 octane with 130 comp and +4 timing.

I have smoothed them out when i had no other choice and ran it, but you do not want to round of any sharp edges, the shape of the dome is VERY important, and the clearances for your squish band.

Yes you should go up on the pilots, i would try a 27.5 first and see how that works. That what i have in one of my bikes with similar set up works good.

You could have a problem with the T.O.R.S. system.

I run 27.5 pilots and 330 mains with pod filters,middle clip on the needle and 2 turns on air screw and t-5s at sea level on one of my bikes, so you should be leaner with your air box and lid on. Probably around 290 main. 25 is stock size for pilot

You can put together a 421 cub with no machine work just cut domes and you can do it all yourself. You don't even need to port them, they haul ass right out of the box, just put good bearings on a 4mil crank and have it welded.You can even run stock style cool heads with big bore domes 68mil. In my opinion get a duneable override and drop it all in and go. The money you will save on machine work will buy your trans and a lockup clutch.You start making alot of power with a banshee and they become hard to shift without a good trans. A duneable override is one of the best mods you can do. Alot of people run them and without one you would be at a hudge disadvantage. Just my 2 cents.

Just have the cylinders ported to the pipes you want to run.

After you make the switch to alky you should be able to go up 1 tooth on your front sprocket. I like to run redline alky pre mix and as stated before don't forget to drill out your gas cap, i have seen guys overlook this and starve there motor for fuel. Once you go to alky you will never go back.

I would check your spark plug caps, it sounds like you could have blown resistors. NGK sells good replacement ones for about 6 bucks apiece. I replace mine about once a year.

I would not run a spacer plate if i were you. You should just run cut domes and lower your ports to the top of your piston at bottom dead center as stated before. I tried a spacer before and they don't work very well and you lose alot of power with a plate that lifts your cylinder up 2 mils. If your cylinders have never been ported before it should run pretty good.But if you are after max power then you should have a pro do it.I have ported my own cylinders and use to have fun trying different things but when i had Redline do a set of cylinders what a HUGE difference.But i still had alot of fun and learned alot playing with my own, have fun.

The more you turn that screw out on top the more fuel it will dump in.

It's hard to beat a good old T-5s. It sound like you like to race and the pipes that you listed i like the T-5s, I used to run them alot. They are a good mid to topend pipe.

What kind of pipes are you running? What kind of filter do you have on it K&N ?

re This looks like Mattoons personal bike. I seen it break the track record at Albany Oregon last summer with Cameron Sawyer from Redline Racing riding it.I think it ran a 3.29

I ran a short rod crank for awhile, it reved up a little quicker but i broke alot of piston skirts. I would get a long rod, ALOT more reliable.

X-2

You can drop one in the front without having to mess with adding or removing links to your chain.

Sounds like you need to just go ride it and clean it out, idling your bike espetcially with your choke on, can cause the fuel to puddle up in the crank case and in the expansion chambers.

T-5s work better than T-6s on any motor, ported or not, but T-5s work awsome on ported motors.Just save your money and get the T-5s, you will probably not leave your bike stock forever anyway.

Cameron at Redline Racing builds a good reliable motor also. He also has an onsite dyno and is very good at tuning and does all of his own machine work and case work that you will need for the dm, and he cuts his own domes. (541-367-2453)