BenBB

Holy death machine batman!! J/K I'm curious what you have in mind for bodywork...and what yer gonna do with it, but anyway. What year was the frame? I see heims on the upper a-arms, you can check those and others by wiggling the tires and looking for play. You might check ebay for a "kit" although you'd probably be money ahead buying them (yes there are bearings and seals, depends on which ones specifically some are sealed bearings, there's a few o-rings, lip seals, etc. etc.) from a local bearing supplier, in general Japanese and German bearings (SKF, Fafnir, etc.) are worth paying extra for instead of Chinese or Thai stuff. I've only had axle bearings fail on my '96, although I've replaced front hub seals and regreased the front hub bearings. The a-arms look relatively new, that would be one of my biggest concerns coming apart at speed heh. Good luck.

Ya best case scenario, ditch the whole stock chain adjustment garbage. If not, loctite FTW!!

I agree with BSHEE400, most likely culprit is the axle bearings but could be front swingarm needle bearings...could also be loose swingarm bolt/bushing/frame holes or like mine the bearing surface of the axle itself is worn :sad: If you get it on a stand or bucket or something where the rearend is suspended you should be able to pinpoint the problem, also if you change the axle bearings you might consider adding a grease zerk and popping the inner seals on the bearings so you can grease them (those bearings failing is kinda common, less so when you can get fresh grease to them). Good luck.

I think the longest race I did was 64-66 miles, two loops 32 or 33 miles each. I made it on a single 5-gal tank...if I remember right lol! So best case racing, mine would need 12.1 gallons to go 155 miles (64miles/5gal = 12.8mpg; 155miles/12.8mpg = 12.1gal...maybe if my math isn't fucked up). That's alotta fuel...but I'd find a way if I had a chance to run the outback, that would be cool as hell.

Tranny overfilled or RH crank seal leaking...

First one I've heard of doing that You might check the other three...or use that as an excuse to upgrade to +2 a-arms :biggrin:

It's not necessary to reshape the domes, but you can have it done if you want. Generally speaking you can take 0.030" off a stock head and be safe on pump fuel (91-ish octane), and you'll notice the difference. You can go farther, like 0.060" but will probably need higher octane, depending on your setup, either via race fuel or a mix of pump & race fuels. IMHO if the cylinders aren't ported you won't achieve a whole lot by changing the squish, just deck it and go, if it is ported or you're considering having it done soon have the same shop do the head at the same time. Good luck.

That sucks sorry to hear it man :sad:

Slot mounting holes on stock stator plate=free (if ya got a dremel and a carbide cutter) Degree key=I dunno what are they like $25 from Vito's? Aftermarket adjustable timing plate=$125-ish right? Fuck I dunno they gotta be online somewhere @ Cascade or RMA. All of the above=flywheel puller, 14mm wrench for LH footpeg bolts, 12mm (maybe 10mm) wrench for shift lever, big-ass phillips for stator cover screws and stator screws (impact screwdriver if they are stubborn/stripped, 10mm on stator plate if you can wedge or custom bend the bastard in there), penetrating oil and lots of cursing to get the flywheel off if it decides to be a bitch, blue loctite for stator bolts, never-sieze optional on the crank snout and stator cover screws...I'd call it a 3-4 beer job :happy:

Haha that was my very first thought!!! Hopefully it is the CDI, just curious if you're getting fuel to the cylinders, are the plugs wet with fuel after kicking it over? You've tried both choke on & off? Nothing obstructing the airway and air filter clean? Mine's never kicked me back, 4stroker might be onto something there...

Stator resistance: Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire) Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire) Lighting coil should be 0.26-0.38 Ohms (black to yellow wire) from the FAQ

Jbooker pretty much covered everything there, just gonna add a couple cents... Jet kits are a waste of money, just buy a range of main jets in the range you need, pilots if you need 'em, and adjust the needle and airscrews. Takes some effort to dial in but it's worth it. Air filter depends on your conditions, really fine, powdery dust will get past a K&N, but I still prefer them for ease of cleaning/oiling and airflow. A foam filter will resist water entry better and will catch dust better, but you'll sacrifice some airflow and it may load up faster. In either case I prefer the single with no airbox lid, gives you some protection from mud/water/whatever and still flows plenty good (I never removed the airbox to rejet, just push the carb back to compress the airbox boot, turn it out of the reed cage boot, and pull it out). Advancing the timing will give you a little more power everywhere from off idle up. 4 Degrees of advance shouldn't cause any issues as long as your jetting is good and you're not way high on compression and running low octane fuel. Think of it as overcoming one of the "detuning" things the factory does so average joe doesn't meltdown the motor on the first ride after putting 60 octane in it and revving to 9k right after kicking it to life. Shaving the stock head vs. aftermarket head...not much real difference there but there are advantages to both. Stock head shave is way cheaper, easier to install (one head gasket not multiple o-rings), and the cooling capacity is debatably the exact same. Aftermarket head allows you to change domes whenever you want, and also lets you just change dome(s) alone if you blow a piston (stock head you'll likely have to replace the whole thing), plus there's the bling factor. Your call. Changing the front sprocket makes a pretty big difference, bear in mind when you lower the gearing (smaller front or larger rear) you move the power lower...the gears will feel shorter and top speed will be lower, but it will get moving in a hurry. If you rarely hit 6th try it and see if it suits your riding area, if you're constantly trying to shift into 7th don't go smaller on the front, try a 15T instead. If you're happy with your top speed where it is now leave it alone and focus on making more power where you need it instead (personally I'd up the compression first, it will make a noticable difference in low end torque). IMHO I wouldn't worry about the stock crank letting go until you get into porting and/or really high compression. Good luck.

ITP rims aren't bad compared to Douglas I don't think, I have run both and no real issues. As others said the .125 are really only good for TT/ST, drag, etc. where light weight is paramount, they won't last on trails. The .160s are good for dunes, although I have dinged mine a couple times. The .190 are good for trails & MX type riding, although I completely taco'd an ITP hitting a stump once. Those hipers are sick, wish I could afford 'em. For the desert I was running plain ITP .190's with rings welded in...I managed to bend one of those fuckers too now that I think about it. Cheapest route is probably stock rims, they are decent, fairly light, rolled lip, probably somewhere close to .190 in thickness, etc. And yes it is worth having the tires already mounted on rims for a spare set or second set, those things are a BITCH to break the bead on, I tried once with my truck and gave up...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3159/280783...o.jpg?t=1053139 :laugh:

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Start with the simple stuff; air, fuel, compression and spark (at the right time). You've got spark, were the plugs wet with fuel after kicking it over? Did you try it with the choke on and off? (go ahead and laugh I've done it haha) Is the air filter clean? Definitely check the compression if you're sure the air filter is clean and the intake tract is clear, and there's at least some evidence of fuel getting to the plugs...and it won't fire with fresh plugs. On a side note, usually when fuel just pours out the overflows it means the floats are stuck open, usually you can just tap on the bowls with the end of a large-ish screwdriver handle and they will close. If you were trying to start it while they were overflowing you coulda got a buncha fuel in the cases (flooded)...so you might need to hold the throttle wide open and kick it over like 10,000 times...pulling the plugs while you kick will help, make sure the ignition is "off". Good luck.

:woot: Damn those silencers are sick jbooker, nice work (and polishing theshee).

Mmmm SAW :biggrin: I've been wondering about E85 too, seen a few GM trucks with the flex fuel badging but not any of the fuel at the pumps here :shrug:

If it goes to the parking brake, yes, I tried to find a breakdown and the factory parts fiche doesn't show jack, I don't remember exactly what all was in there...the arm and some kinda bolt, big acme-threaded thing...I could pull one of my blockoffs off and take a gander if ya want.

The e-brake pin/bolt...you can rip all that stuff outta there, anything to do with the parking brake can go bye-bye, it'll only cause problems like you have now. Check the pins like FireHead said, make sure they aren't bent and you could also grease them with brake grease. Other than that you might have some warpage on the disc if it got that hot, but to me it sounds like the parking brake guts is what's sticking or holding things up...

She looks good, not a bad deal for the price at all I don't think. Oh yeah the cardinal rule of quads (especially if you came from two wheels)...don't put your foot down lol! You already know from havin' an RZ where they like to have the throttle

Every time I've had electrical issues it either runs or it don't...but intermittant problems can arise and can be a bitch to track down. TORS can always be a problem if you still have it. Definitely could be air filter or jetting like 05 said, or something else...

Sweet :beer: I'm digging that chrome tank/radiator cover too :cool:

Nooo not the shop!! :yucky: Testing the stator is easy, you just need an ohmmeter (specs in Clymer manual or Electrical FAQ below). You already ruled out the CDI, that's a good thing, usually the hardest one to test if ya don't have access to another CDI. Anyway the stator is a good possibility, they are known to fail eventually, definitely check that first. It could also be coil or wiring, if your buddy will let you, try swapping the coil with his (or have a shop bench test it, I've never had any luck testing a coil with an ohmmeter). It could also be a loose or bad ground, make sure the black wire on the harness is crimped well to the eyelet terminal and the terminal makes good contact with (preferably) bare metal on the frame, back under the seat where the voltage regulator bolts up. If all that checks out you'll prolly need to check the harness for continuity. Good luck, electrical problems can be a pain to find but you can do it if you give it a shot...

Have you tried going up on the mains at all? Sounds like it's just lean on the mains, if it idles ok with the stock pilots now I'd leave the pilots alone and just try 290 or 300 mains and see how it runs (mains are primarily responsible for mixture between about 3/4 and full throttle, needle about 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, and pilots are idle to about 1/8 throttle); when you use the choke trick it makes it rich all the way through so if it ran better at WOT and not at idle that tells you to go richer just on the mains, once you get those dialed in use the airscrews to fine tune idle and off-idle response. Good luck.