BenBB

Looks like they aren't makin' the 300cc anymore (www.gasgas.com), looked like a decent quad but parts are prolly hard to come by. There was one in Huevos 7 or 8, it's blue and has a kinda curvy front plastic, anyway a guy raced one here in the desert and it did ok, from what I hear it was fast and the factory Ohlins suspenion was very good...

I just cut & welded the factory shifter & brake lever shorter; just cut then "scabbed" back an inch or so. I had old-school DG steel nerfs that mounted to the two footpeg mounting bolts, not sure if they offer any with that mounting style anymore or not...

Ya I do...broke lotsa stuff but had fun

I agree that bike is SICK. Excellent job on it. Definitely advance the timing, what's done on the head? Reed setup? How's the porting compare to the RZ's? If it's close, especially in terms of exhaust port height when the PV's are wide open, it's gonna make about the same power just hit harder (well hopefully more with the 4 mil but not like exponentially more; without the RZ's powervalves the power will be even more like a lightswitch...hang on heh). Good luck.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Done that heh. I can top it tho, had the CDI disconnected whilst welding on the frame, forgot to plug it back in, kicked it over until I was about to puke ::

Is it tapered bearing or twin row (ball) bearing? You sure the spacer is in place in the center of the carrier between the bearings? If it didn't come with one you need to reuse the stocker. If it's tapered bearings you don't want to torque the piss out of it either, I forget the exact procedure but someone else probably can tell ya, something like tighten to X ft-lbs and then back off a quarter turn or some shit. Good luck.

And the pickup coil, check the gap and scope out the wires to it. It could still be the stator, they can read ok with an ohmmeter and still not work (broken solder somewhere, cut wire that sometimes makes contact, gremlins, etc.). But definitely check the flywheel and caps as suggested. Good luck.

Dude that's classic

Couldn't be pilots too big, but could be pilots clogged (or too small; too big would likely be rich and boggy). Might be air leak at base gaskets or crank seals, have you tried spraying ether on it while idling to try to find a leak? Carefully heh, don't hose it down or anything, but if the revs change when you hit a certain spot you've found it, include the reeds in the spraying, could be torn boot or cage/boot bolts not tight enough. Delta's like large pilots too, did you go to 30's? Or still 25's? Might be ok with stock 25 pilots if not piped but might need to step up depending on what airscrew adjustment does. Have you tried richening the airscrews (not the idle speed screws from the TORS removal)? Good luck.

Damn that sucks, good to hear he's gonna recover. Titanium, nice :ermm: Sorry no parts to help but hope he's feelin' betta soon :beer:

Awesome :cool:

When you take the right-hand powervalve outer cover off to see the ends of the cables and the black plastic cam thing that they attach to, you'll see a kind of fork shape to it pointing upwards-ish. In the round housing behind it there's a dowel hole about 1/8" in diameter or so. To adjust the cables you want to rotate that black plastic cam (which rotates the powervalves) until the arm on the cam aligns with the dowel hole in the housing. Stick an allen wrench or drill bit in there that fits snugly, and adjust the two cables until there is NO play. Think I've got a pic somewhere if you need it. Good luck.

Shift shaft seal. Call a local bearing store and ask for a 10x22x7 seal (those are the metric dimensions in millimeters; ID x OD x CC), oughta be like two bucks. Pull the shift lever, LH footpeg, and stator cover to get to it, either use a hooked pick to pry it out carefully or a short sheetmetal screw into the seal (careful don't like sink it in the case behind the seal) and pry on that to get it to pop out. Tap the new one in carefully, you can use some small diameter pipe (3/4" or so) longer than that shaft to tap it in if you need to. It shouldn't leak much if any gear oil in the process but if you hafta leave it out overnight or you're paranoid about getting oil on the garage floor just tip the quad up on its right tires during the procedure. Good luck.

You SHOULD be able to use a battery eliminator, pretty common on ebay or at least they used to be. I've heard they are all pretty much the same between models (like RZ350, Kawi triple, whatever) with just different connectors so if an RZ350 one wasn't available you could try one for somethin' else. Good luck.

Good guy to deal with, no probs, thanks again!

Either one, whichever is easier; splice into the black wire in the harness or use an eyelet terminal to ground to a nearby bolt on the frame (the harness was easier for me). If it's a Pro Design tether make sure you got the right wire for ground, if you get them reversed it will still work (all it does is close the circuit between wires) but the exposed metal part will have voltage and will bite ya. If you're not sure use an ohmmeter or continuity tester to find the wire that has continuity to that metal part and use that one for ground. Good luck.

I'd run it also, with an aftermarket slider of course...

I had mine wired straight to orange/black at the coil (with a Dyna adjustable CDI) until I heard that it might hurt the CDI, so changed it to use the black/white wire from the CDI instead; the same circuit the handlebar kill switch uses, worked fine.

I'm one Always a work in progress heh, running strong right now though...

Like Handyman said it's pretty straightforward, although to get the clutch cover off ya gotta pull off the right-hand footpeg and the kickstart lever, and you'll need to drain the tranny fluid also. From the factory there's a paper gasket on the clutch cover and the inner water pump cover, although I've always used hi-temp silicone on both with no probs. The drive gear is plastic and is secured to the shaft with a small solid pin, make sure you don't lose it during disassembly and that it stays in place during reassembly...

I've never had one fail but that doesn't mean they don't, don't hear about it much though. I don't know for sure but I'd be willing to bet they are exactly the same or interchangable between models, especially something like a Blaster, I mean it's just a 12V, maybe 55W one-wire box... The lighting system is pretty simple, probably most likely the stator lighting coils followed by connectors/wiring, switch or bulbs, volt reg would be my last guess but it's a possibility. Good luck.

Do the brake caliper mounting bolts extend past the caliper stay (bracket)? The ends of those two bolts should be flush with the caliper bracket that they thread in to, if they aren't they will hit the rotor. I ran into the same thing using YFZ450 calipers on Banshee spindles, the YFZ450 bolts are longer for their aluminum spindle, just use Banshee bolts. Good luck.

ROFL you can see Chewie in the pics :biggrin: I like how the grab bar features the ends of the frame...the hacksaw removal method heh. Damn there's just one of them billet exhaust clamps, I need two for mine but might could use it on the Blaster...

I need that bumper, my son's is FUBAR heh, when I can scrounge up some green I'll see if you still have it...

No it's cake just take your time. Every time I've tried to take the rotor bolts off they are a bitch, there's some kind of factory loctite on 'em and the penetrating oil will help loosen it. Plus stripping allen bolts is a bitch and a half. Yes loctite the rotor bolts. No loctite isn't necessary on the sprocket bolts since they have a mechanical lock (the tabs that you bend against the nut to keep it from backing out); yes use a screwdriver or punch to bend them back against the flat side of the nut (look at them before you take 'em off to see what I'm talkin' about, they have two different tabs you can bend up depending on where the flat spot is on the nut when it's tightened up, just pick one and hammer it tight up against the flat on the nut). I use blue loctite on the chain adjustment jam nut: ya know how you have the two longish bolts that use a 12mm wrench sticking straight back on the axle carrier, run them in or out to adjust the chain (oops I kinda left out the part where you have to loosen the two big carrier bolts), get it where you want it and tighten both carrier bolts (I use loctite on those two nuts even though they are locknuts), then run that little nuts all the way down with a 10mm wrench and loctite that little bastard too.