BenBB

Looks decent to me, good price, I'd take a closer look. Personally I'd take my own compression tester and see what it reads (110 is ok, a little on the low side but not horrible), look the frame over carefully for cracks, ride it and see what you think. Good luck.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

How the hell did they cram it in there?!?? Impressive lol!

Here's mine at the last race I was at (Feb last year :sad: )...however these races were more like GNCC than Baja...

Alpinestars are good boots, I'd try that first...

DUNES dunes or just sandy desert? Competitive speeds or just cruising? You more concerned about covering distance or performance?

No problems here with the tranny, between the RZ forks/drum, a modded shift star, and backcut gears mine shifts smooth and I rarely miss a gear. The ratios are a little different but I hardly notice.

:beer:

That's the nature of the beast

I agree that sounds lean but I also agree the damage doesn't really jive with a lean condition failure. Rod through the case, ouch :ermm: I'd like to see some pics...

That round powervalve housing should have a plastic cam thing for the cable ends and it should be secured to the powervalves (which should turn freely), there should be two cables going to a servo motor, and wiring from the motor to the PV control box...and of course ya gotta have RZ stator/flywheel, CDI, voltage regulator and battery (or eliminator). Banshee harness ain't gonna cut it without some heavy modification, and unless you use a zeeltronic PV controller/CDI the Banshee stator isn't gonna work either (someone correct me if I'm wrong but last I heard you could get away with Banshee stator and zeeltronic boxes).

I'm looking for some paddles, what kinda wheels?

Size on paddles? Any pics?

Was that $2k from Works for Steelers or a higher grade of Works shocks? Honestly I don't think you're gonna find a better price than Works, and not like you're gonna find 'em used...I'd call and ask for Sandy in engineering, 818-826-1010 if you haven't already, he has the dimensions. Just guessing but you oughta be able to get all three shocks direct for about a grand, maybe fifteen hundred at the outside (think I paid around $450 a pair for the last sets of fronts I got, triple rate w/rezzy and 17-ish inches long for yfz450 arms, did get a discount but it wasn't like half price or anything). Good luck (yes I'm jealous haha! Post some pics when it's done!!!).

Jesus Ray, why not just open a museum lol!!

Me too! Awesome find deckheight, thanks!!!

I saw that too, mine's the PC version, still have the last series to go (WANT Banshee Fullbores haha!) and I'm not seein' any free ride...but damn it's still lotsa fun :biggrin:

Same here I've had no problems with it, got it from Napa.

Can't help on the stem but I'm running Tusk Honda-style tie rods and they are damn good. RMA has them also but I got them from trailtracksand.com for a couple bucks less (same exact thing, click there and scroll down a ways). Good luck.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I agree an impact is the easiest way to get it off, works for going back on also but ya may or may not have it torqued just right (use loctite just in case, I had one come off a 250R and had to push the bitch home). Strap wrench will work but can slip and bust some knuckles. I made a tool, there's some pics in the electrical FAQ below but here's one:

LMAO!! Nice! :yelrotflmao:

That's certainly not a bad price, I'd be inclined to call/email and ask them what brand they were, but that's just me, even the cheap ones will last a while. Here's some bearing numbers if you want to shop around: Front wheel hub bearings Inner 6004 Outer 6202 Front wheel hub seals. (inner x outer x depth) Inner 22mm x 35mm x 7mm Outer 22mm x 35mm x 7mm So to do both front hubs you need to buy two of everything Axle Carrier Bearings - 2 by 6007RS Seals (inner x outer x depth) 62 x 42 x 8 62 x 43 x 8 BTW if the rear hubs have play just yank the cotter pin and torque the piss out of the bolts until the castle nut holes line up again and re-cotter it. Good luck.

I got my eye on this one, think I'll grab one soon: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16822136227 That FreeAgent looks good, although most external HDDs have to have a separate power cord/brick, the one above gets power thru the USB cord, only one like it I've seen so far. Backing up to DVD isn't a bad idea but they suffer the same shortcomings of any other optical media, scratches get you a nice coaster and not yer data. Of course I've also heard that hard drives are more prone to failure than any other component (in my experience they aren't mebbe I'm just lucky), so your best bet is not to put all your eggs in one basket; cram as much as you can on your pod, keep a copy of all of 'em (ideally) on your hard drive and back it all up once in a while to an external, you should be good to go.

Sounds like the flywheel is the only electrical component you haven't replaced...if it was mine I'd find one and at least pull the pipes to see if the pistons look like they aren't moving opposite each other (your crank could be out of phase as you suspect)...