BenBB

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Where's the centerfolds?!?

Word. Take care man.

Been there Just reverse the wires, the ground needs to be on the other side...

What the hell is up Jason?!!! Good to hear you're still among the living heh :biggrin:

Big WERM!!! LOL I love that movie :cool: Awww yeah Fridayyyy

Those came out great I shoulda got more than one. A decent shirt shop oughta be able to do anything ya want, they usually charge by the color so just one or a few colors should be no biggie...

Definitely. Ride it, if he's serious he oughta let you. Keep in mind it's gonna be at least 20 years old...take a close look at the frame for cracks. I had an '86 and it was fun for a while but I wouldn't trade my Banshee for anything, just nothing else like it (matter of opinion)...

Right on :beer:

LOL! :biggrin:

1 Black XL.

Sad news man, may she rest in peace.

^^^ ka-ching :biggrin:

Right on :beer: I don't blame ya I can't stay outta the garage when I got new parts either :biggrin:

WTF anybody else think this sounds like "tiny unicorns in the exhaust"??! Dude I don't want to sound like a dick but I think the guy that's wrenching on it is a fucking moron. Like AKheathen said, IF the mechanic replaced the CDI and stator, and you replaced the coil, the only thing left is wiring harness and switches and maaaaybe the flywheel (I take it somebody already tried fresh plugs by now?). I would bet it's the stator, either he didn't replace it and just said he did, or who the hell knows he coulda stuffed a CR125 stator in there, point is when somebody else does the work there's no telling unless you're lookin' over his shoulder the whole time...and he coulda dropped the flywheel on a concrete floor ruining it. It takes 5 minutes to test a stator with an ohmmeter, which may not be a 100% indicator of a problem (sometimes bad ones test good) but at least you can check it and not just throw parts at it. Same goes for the switches and harness, it'll take some time but with an ohmmeter you can at least see what's up...

Damn that's some carnage :ermm: Never had a failure like that and hope I never do. Good luck getting back healthy and hopefully your Banshee back in once piece...

Both sold (pending shipment), thanks guys.

Isn't it a Mazda pickup that's about that size? I had a set of Ricky Stator a-arms and I coulda sworn I read somewhere that Mazda trucks used the exact same one, I just never tried matchin' it up...

Zep is among the living haha :biggrin: Definitely cost ya less to stay now heh, just hope the kids like to ride in a few years :cool: Come back to the dark side Scott

Forgot to mention these are the .190" thickness aluminum skidplates. $80 Shipped for the pair or $50 each shipped separately.

Got these a few years ago and put some hard miles on 'em but they still do a great job of protecting the frame and swinger. The rear mount for the belly pan is missing the threaded nubbin for one of the two mounting bolts, I was running it without that and didn't notice any problem with it. The swinger skidplate has been welded once by PRM at the rear mounting tabs, I nailed something pretty hard once and cracked them at the welds. Asking $80 shipped.

Not surprisingly I'd put the money in the Banshee (this is a Banshee site after all heh), with the money you're talking about spending it will blow the doors off the competition... IMO if you're happy with the power the porting can wait, in this game the stakes are always getting higher so I'd save that for when the thumpers go big. Judging by what you said about your riding areas and conditions I would change your motor list to: Fresh topend w/Wisecos (lighter forged pistons than stock) Noss head OR shave stock head 30 thousandths (either way up the compression for lowend hit) Timing plate or key or slot the stock plate (I prefer the free route but timing advance IS good) T5's good choice there, opinions vary but they are good along with others Clutch-only if it's slipping now or you notice it after doing the above, I wouldn't worry about it yet Reeds (skip the impeller and shift star, even cheapish Boyeson dual-stage are better than stock) Air filter adapter plate (I have an UMI Racing one they used to be cheaper than others) As you've already discovered the Banshee's achilles heel is handling, but it wasn't designed to carve. I wouldn't fall for the 'long travel' thing, unless you're bent on the bragging rights, I don't think it'll make enough difference to merit the price premium. Here again you have alot of options depending on your budget: Gforce +4 axle (definitely go wider on the axle) +2 or +3 a-arms with Elkas (lots of options, Elka is a good choice among others for shocks) Revalve rear shock (definitely better than buying new with little to no noticable difference BUT I'd only do it if your rear shock is leaking or blown or just rides like shit; you may also consider Elka's rear shock linkage) +2 antivibe stem (if you're really tall and want the height it would be ok, I'd go with different bar bend instead, good grips and a steering stabilizer-again just my opinion but I think for the cost of that stem you would get better results with bars, grips and stabilizer, if you really wanted top of the line look at Flexx bars) I'd take what's left, if there is any, and make sure you've got the little things covered, and the things that you might not think of, like tires/paddles (gotta get power to the ground), chain/sprockets (gearing makes a huge difference), temp gauge to keep an eye on how hot she's getting, a case saver (cheap insurance), brake pads/SS lines/YFZ dual-piston fronts (still gotta stop sometime), maybe moving the footpegs back 2" (makes a decent difference in handling), wheel/axle bearings (mod the axle bearing carrier when you change the axle so you can grease them), check the frame for cracks, helmet/goggle/boots, etc. etc. Good luck and have fun smoking the other guys

Yes.