plasticookie

You mean to start in 2nd???

They carbs havent been professionally syncd since i got it but they seem to be as far as I can tell without tool...I know this isnt the right forum but, is it possible that it would loose that much power bc its running lean or the pilot are to small?

I beat him pretty badly especially from 3rd on, but it seems like b4 the mods, once I got going, I would just blow past him...How do you like that 13tooth front sprocket? ive got one, but havent put it on bc it seems like that woul be a lot of shifting...stock 700r's beat you with that setup???

So I installed pretty much all the suggested bolt ons(Boyeson reeds, pro flow k&n minus lid, trinity stage IV timing plate @ +4, milled head .03, 280 mains, fmf sst pipes) and dont get me wrong "shee" will scream, but even though the set-up is much better for trail riding(more midrange power) im not so sure it wasnt a tad bit quicker, as far as dragging goes, b4...The band hits better throughout the throttle range, but at the sacrifice of top end. When I just had pipes, the power band took longer to hit but felt a tad quicker when wide open. I especially noticed this when dragging my friends z400 the other day. I use spin through 2nd and pass him on 2 tires in 3rd(on dirt), but we were on pavement this time and I crept away but nothing like I use to...maybe its just my imagination, but im suppose to race a 700raptor and a kfx700, and it would be embarrassing to get smoked by a stock kfx. Has the sacrifice of top end made me slower or do I just need to adjust????

That's good news..I think the reason it smoked, was that I let my friend ride it the other day and he drove it like a little school boy. He's never rode a 2stroke and I think he was afraid of it. It probably built up unburned oil and that was why it was smoking so bad. Anyways, I bought new plugs the pilots are good, the needle is in the right position, still not sure about the mains. I went riding this morning for about 2 hours, occasionally letting it cool down, just in case. It started on 2nd kick and took a minute to warm up but ran great after that. When I got back the plugs were milky chocolate at the bottom, but darker at the base. It almost looks like there are black specs, like described in one the sticky's in this forum, but im not sure if thats what it is. The pipes also make a ping noise, but once again im not sure if it bc it's running lean or just the pipes...I am also using water wetter and took you advice and drained about an inch out of the radiator.

There were no air bubbles in the over flow, if thats what u meant.

I was advised to mix 4 ounces of yamalube to every gallon, not sure what ratio that is probably 40 or 32:1

Well i was gonna move the needle up a clip 2-day & take a picture of the spark plugs...but they have both turn from dark brown, to light brown(almost white) & wet(possibly water)...The coolant level is about the same tho...either im running very lean or water is getting into the head and has rinsed the oil off the plugs...im also using straight tap water, could that be part of the problem???

I just rode it pretty hard for about 5minutes and it ran good, as far as performance. When I stopped smoke was coming out of the exhaust, where they connect to the jugs...it also blows thick white smoke out of the silencers when i kick it.

Here is my set up...Fmf sst's, K&n proflow w/o lid, trinity plate +4, stock head shaved .03, & stock carbs w/ 280 mains @ 2 turns out...im also @ 1200ft & 65-80 degrees... Here's my question: Just went up from 260 to 280 mains, adjusted the airscrews out to 2 turns and its seems to run fine throughout the throttle range, but the plugs are dark brown(new plugs)...Every thread in this forums would indicate that it is running too rich, but I couldn't imagine it running any better, but maybe its possible. Should I keep adjusting until I get light brown or leave it as is???

I know u guys probably will probably think im a dumb arrogant sob, but I sanded the key and flywheel groove until they were both pretty smooth and put the flywheel back on to see if the stator still worked and amazingly it fired up on the first kick and ran like new. So I think im gonna go against popular demand and just impact the bolt back on with some temporary locktite and leave it at that.

Ive done looked at it a few times, but thanx...looks like the key is to gummed up and the groove where it inserts into the flywheel is also pinched on the edges and the stator is dunzo and and and etc....

Ill try and take a pic when I get home...i think the pick-up coil is ok, the flywheel didnt come completely off...I know it has marks,but i gave it about 1/4 to 1/8 throttle and set the timing by ear when i heard it open up...i was goin to use a impact but couldnt find and the guy at the yamaha shop said just to tighten it as much as i could :shoothead:

So I bought a trinity stage 4 adj timing plate, had a hellacious time getting the holes to match up bc it was almost too big...put the flywheel back on and tightened it as much as possible(with a wrench), timed it by ear, and put the cover back on...I drove it around the yard for about 5min and everything was fine, then decided to take it down the rd and back 1 last time before putting it up. 1st everything was good, 2nd still good, 3rd i pulled up and rode a nice wheeley(probably my last) and about the time i sat her back down she backfired and thats all she wrote. After pushing it back to the garage I discovered that the flywheel had came loose and the key had also came out...the wheel looks ok, the key has marks on it, and the tips of the stator are slightly wore down and smell heavily of ozone...Does the key have to be in perfect condition to be used??? Why did the wheel come off??? Are my problems bigger???

Did he say why he suggested the bolt ons first, bc im thinking I can get jets, adj plate, shaved head, and cylinders for around $300